• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2014.06a
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• pp.241-243
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• 2014

Recently, as the coastal erosion impacts greats to both social and economical aspects, each local government is trying to setup its countermeasures. However, it is necessary to survey the change of sediment movement characteristics and investigate the continuous environment change by long-term monitoring after building prevention constructions. In this study, predictions on wave deformation and sediment movement deduced through the numerical modeling are made, based on the ordinary and extraordinary wave through seasonal superiority wave direction, height, period and long-term wave characteristics on the eroded beach of central West sea.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.87-101
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• 2014

Recently, more attention has been paid to the geomorphological changes in the Nakdong River Estuary, because those changes are caused by artificial activities including weirs, reclamation and construction. In order to analyze quantitatively the recent geomorphological variability in the Nakdong River Estuary, we surveyed the depth and elevation of submarine topography near Jinwoodo and Sinjado from March 2007 to February 2012. A statistical method (based on Digital Shoreline Analysis System) and an Empirical Orthogonal Functions method were used to evaluate the morphological changes. According to the statistical variables (DCE, NDC, EPR, LRR), the highest amount and rate of accumulation were recorded around the Gadeokdo whereas the greatest amount of erosion appeared around the coast off the eastern part of Sinjado. In particular, a dynamic variation of morphology was clearly observed in the vicinity of the sub-tidal channel located between Jinwoodo and Sinjado, which seems to be attributable to channel migration. As a result of the EOF method, the first mode (48.7%) is most closely related to the pattern of morphological variability that might be associated with the westerly movement of sediment by longshore current. The spatial variability of the second mode (16.6%) was high in the shoreface of Sinjado, showing a 4-year periodicity of temporal variability. The strong correlation (coefficient 0.73) between the time coefficient and suspended sediment discharge from Nakdong River emphasizes the role of sediment discharge to deposition in this area. The spatial variability of the third mode (11.3%) was distributed mainly around the coast off the eastern part of Sinjado, which is related to the movement of the coastline of Sinjado. Based on the last 5 year's data, our results suggest that the study area is characterized on the whole by a depositional pattern, but the extent of sedimentation is different locally.

• Journal of Forest and Environmental Science
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.23-34
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• 1990

Based on the topographical and vegetational indicators on sediment movement of Yongcheon River, the movement occurence years were estimated. 1. The cross sectional shapes of deposits in torrential stream are stepped and even-aged forests tend to be established on each step. 2. Generally the older the forest age is, the higher the height of step from the lowest base tend to become. 3. The ages of trees indicate the year when deposition occured, and so may be useful as plant indicator to get chronological information.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.26 no.3B
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• pp.311-319
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• 2006

A bed level change model(SED-FLUX) is introduced based on the realistic sediment transport process including bed load and suspended load behaviours at the bottom boundary layer. The model SED-FLUX includes wave module, hydrodynamic module and sediment transport and diffusion module that calculate suspended sediment concentration, net sediment erosion flux($Q_s$) and bed load flux. Bed load transport rate is evaluated by the van Rijn's TRANSPOR program which has been verified in wave-current fields. The net sediment erosion flux($Q_s$) at the bottom is evaluated as a source/sink term in the numerical sediment diffusion model where the suspended sediment concentration becomes a verification parameter of the $Q_s$. Bed level change module calculates a bed level change amount(${\Delta}h_{i,j}$) and updates a bed level. For the model verification the limit depth of the bed load transport is compared with the field experiment data and some formula on the threshold depth for the bed load movement by waves and currents. This model is applied to the beach profile changes by waves, then the model shows a clear erosion and accumulation profile according to the incident wave characteristics. Finally the beach evolution by waves and wave-induced currents behind the offshore breakwater is calculated, where the model shows a tombolo formation in the landward area of the breakwater.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.60-66
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• 1987

The object of this study is to investigate behaviors of beach fill replenished at three coasts of different configurations by analyzing successively measured beach profiles. The main results obtained in this study are summarized as follows; 1) The amount of nourishing sand moved in the longshore direction surpasses the amount of nourishing sand transported in the cross-shore direction regardless of shapes of the coasts and types of the structures. 2) A clear correlation between displacements of shoreline and changes of sectional areas can be found soon after the placement of beach fill in the fields. This implies that the deformation of the artificial nourishment and dissipation or remaining rate of nourishing sand can be predicated by the one-line theory. 3) The patterns of sediment movements in the artificially nourished beaches are clearly found by the analysis of empirical eignfuncitions.

• Water for future
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.119-127
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• 1990

The concentration of cohesive suspended sediment is determined by the circulation of water and the material dispersion. The equations of the two-dimensional, depth-integrated dispersive transport are the Reynolds equation, continuity equation, and advection-dispersion equation based on the Fick's law. A finite difference method has been applied to two models of circulation and dispersion transport. The circulation model is solved by the explicit scheme and the dispersion transport model is solved by multi-operational scheme. It is investigated wheter advective terms are included when the equation of circulation is applied to the model. For advection-dispersion equation, it was also investigated about variations of suspended sediment concentration with respect to the critical shear stresses.

• Journal of the Korean Geotechnical Society
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.39-44
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• 2003

Centrifuge test was conducted to simulate the effects of consolidation settlement of capped contaminated marine sediment. A fluorescent dye was used to monitor the movement of pore water through the cap layer. Dye tracer study clearly showed the consolidation induced advective transport of contaminants. Thus, the capping layer must be appropriately designed to reduce the effects of consolidation induced advective transport. The results from the centrifuge test were compared to predictions made by the Primary consolidation, Secondary compression, and Desiccation of Dredged Fill (PSDDF) computer program, which can qualitatively estimate the consolidation settlement of capped marine sediment. Although PSDDF approximated closely the secondary compression in the centrifuge test (i.e., compare data points from 18 to 25 prototype years), the maximum deviation between centrifuge test result and PSDDF prediction was 20 % about prototype time 6 years. Thus, designers should utilize PSDDF consolidation settlement results with caution.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.697-709
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• 1999

Two dimensional finite element model(RMA) is applied to examine sediment transport behavior near Buyeo water intake station of the Keum River. The simulation results of bed change with various discharge conditions agree with those of observation. As the alternatives of channel modification and resulting bed lowering near intake station, construction of jetties and removal of small island are considered. The station of jetties diverted the main stream toward the other side and the width of the main stream did not change so much. The bed elevation of the main channel is reduced about 5~20 cm, when flow condition of 12,030㎥/sec applied. The removal of small island provides the less significant effect on sediment movement. This study shows that the construction of jetties would be effective to reduce the entrainment of sediment.

• Magazine of the Korean Society of Agricultural Engineers
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.82-89
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• 1997

A physically-based soil-water erosion model with simple hydrology and Rose & Hairsine's erosion concept is described, and was implemented in the form of computer program. The model derived from the concept of stream power(Bagnold, 1977) considers settling velocity characteristics of the soil and distinguishes between the processes of entrainment and re-entrainment. It deals separately with rill flow and sheet flow, handles vegetation in terms of soil contact cover, and has the ability to simulate soil movement on nonuniform slopes. The model predicted sediment concentrations reasonably with the results of Mclsaac et al. (1990). It showed a capability to quantitatively predict the movement of soil on uniform and nonuniform slopes. Among the model parameters, soil depositability $({\phi})$ was the most sensitive from the sensitivity analysis.