• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.171-184
• /
• 2011

This paper is purposed to clarify that an increase of the matter of concern about men's fashion in the mid-1980s was coincided with rapid change of images for men and diversification within the context of economy, society, culture and to analyze the characteristic of each fashion and the meaning. Findings are as follows: 'New men' played a key role creating and communicating the new male image through the media, as a new masculine appeared in the middle of 1980s. Especially it was spreaded into with British as a center between the generations of young men described as a white-collar worker about the ages from 18 to 35 specifically and appeared by the cultural background in accordance with the spread of consumerism, materialism and post modern feminism and the development of men's fashion. There were 2 types of fashion styles for 'New men' image on the media in the mid-1980s. The First is 'power suit look style' which is self-conscious, including 'corporate formal suit look' and 'soft & sexy suit look'. The Second is 'extravagant body conscious style' which characterize the decolletage and androgynous, including 'tough sports look' and 'sexy skirt look'. Lastly, the 'New men' image means a man as a visible object and a man in the image world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.44
• /
• pp.19-36
• /
• 1999

A military uniform has two basic characters. One is functionality for field warfare and the other is decorativeness to express dignity and power to maintain systematic organization. For these purposes, the military uniform is maximizing its effects on functionality and decorativeness on each aspects of material, color, dignity, item, military ornaments and accessories. During wartime, the military uniform improved its functionality and gave much influence on normal clothing at the same time either directly or indirectly. Military look became more diverse. In a mood for the end of century and inflated material civilization, and with nostalgia for the fast, mixed styles of fast, presents and future have come out in variety. In Street Fashion, there are many alternative trends to meet diverse desires of teenagers, and the military look has been steadily favored. The functionality and the decorativeness of military look would have met fashion sense and taste of younger generations pretty well. First, teenagers are active, and the practical materials and functional designs of military style applied to their clothes. Second, they prefer challenging and creative styles, and the decorative elements of military clothing for the colors, patterns, accessories have been applied to they clothing. We may need to understand their culture and emotion more closely and help them enjoy sound and beautiful clothing culture. The military uniform adapted itself to natural and social environments and has been developed and improved, which made that possible.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.307-318
• /
• 2008

Recently, the environmental problems have surfaced as serious social issues. More people become aware of the environments and seek for new kinds of lifestyle Lohas. The purpose of this study was to investigate the expressional characteristics of Lohas fashion design in ready-to-wear collection from 2000 till 2005. In the study, green design which was the base of Lohas fashion, was first examined, which was followed by an analysis of Lohas styles to understand the green design-oriented characteristics of Lohas fashion in the current fashion trends. The findings were as follows: First, the lifestyle of Lohas values 'environment-friendliness', 'sustainability', 'importance of health' and 'sensitivity'. Second, the distinguishing features of Lohas lifestyle categorize the Lohas fashion into five different looks: 'Lohas Natural Look', 'Lohas Vintage Look', 'Lohas Redesign Look', 'Lohas Multi look', and 'Lohas Wellness Look'. This study set out to provide useful results to be used as the basic data in studying design and related areas where they would develop fashion products for the consumers with the latest tastes as well as to promote environment protection.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.73-81
• /
• 2018

Developments in the recent media era has made distortion possible in accordance with changes in the fashion industry as new clothing, technologies, and fusions have become available. Nevertheless, previous studies of specific types of clothing, and their classification for the purpose of research are lacking. Thus, this study examines the development of the Pomme de look and the form of modern variant that appears in fashion clothing and new technologies, and largely examines the clothing case to clean it up. The method employed is leading research that examines the transformation about the concept of the Pomme de look with regard to the fashion about the type of look in the 2000s and onwards. This is organized in accordance with the analytical and physical characteristics, and the esthetic aspects of the results are as follows. The conclusions reached as follows are based on this; first, the physical characteristic manner when based on previous looks, the two-dimensional deformation for making clothes, if there was a simple way, now has more dimensions. Clothes are made in a complex manner and variations emerge. Second, esthetic characteristics strive for beauty while also displaying the modified and more complex manners of clothing that are emerging. Third, the fusion clothing with machines effects to physical and psychological changes through the details about how the sensor is worn. The enemy, the appearance of distortion, and clothing are emerging. This is expected to grow further based on the rapid development of new technologies and the transformation of Pomme de look and design will appear in more varied ways to create a convergence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.4
• /
• pp.94-110
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the swag style which has diversified into various forms by exploring the phenomenon, formative characteristics and the internal values of the swag style in modern fashioin. This study discusses the concept and the socio-cultural meanings of swag from the perspective of Jean Baudrillard's hyper-reality, and a form of existence. The classifies the swag fashion styles into parody, hip hop and collage-type mix-and-match. Expressive characteristics of the swag look in modern fashion are as follows. First, the swag look utilizes the parody technique. In the mid-2000s, the look parodied brand logos as a form of self-mocking and active self-derision toward cheap imitations. Second, the swag look borrows from the expressive factors of the hip-hop style. Born as a sub-culture based on music, hip-hop has become a way of life, as its nature became multi-cultural and trans-cultural while its fashion style gained popularity globally after the 1980s. Third, the swag look barrows from the pop-type collage form as it mixes-and-matches costume items based on the expressive characteristics of hip hop, and this can be seen through items being used in new, non-formative and free styles. Comic aesthetics is revealed in parodied expression, hip-hop factors and collage-style mix-and-match. Swag as a hyper-reality manifests itself in various natures: humorous nature, negative nature and deconstructive nature through reflection and re-enactment of reality, transmutation and distortion of reality, and absence of reality respectively. However, it does not have a binding nature, which is the norm for subcultures. This characteristic, in combination with it having internal lightness, strong meaning of communication, and a sharing of self-contentment, distinguishes itself from the general meanings of existing parody fashion, hip-hop fashion and collage fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.32-43
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze the granny look of the new-tro trend via Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection and to provide a reference standard for future design developments by identifying the representation of the granny look. To analyze the new-tro trend and the granny look, basic concepts were analyzed through aesthetic and art books and the photographic data were collected through Internet sites. A total of 186 fashion images were considered as granny look by five clothing experts. The images were subdivided into silhouettes and items, materials, patterns, and colors to analyze the modeling factors and identify the intrinsic inner meaning based on the theory of Nostalgia. The analysis showed that the silhouette was expressed naturally without exaggeration or shrinkage. The thermosetting materials included fur, velvet, knit and quilted materials, while the colors showed raw and faded shades based on the use of natural colors. The patterns were mostly natural, such as flowers, leaves, and stalks, which were aimed at nature. The inner meaning of the granny look is based on the theory of Nostalgia, primarily because it is an emotional fairy tale and second, it reflected the sessions of nature. Also, it is a reinterpretation of the narrative. In conclusion, the academic and fashion industries need to understand the various emerging trends in accordance with the social and cultural backgrounds to derive a positive benefit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.6
• /
• pp.862-879
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze Alexander Wang's collections representing the athleisure look, and suggest a multilateral direction for fashion design based on the data. The present study examines literature, journals, and mass media to define the athleisure look and understand the background of its emergence, and assess its key design characteristics. The collections examined are from 2007 fall/winter to 2017 spring/summer, and T by Alexander Wang from 2011 spring/summer to 2016 fall/winter. A total of 446 photos were collected and verified by a group of experts. The characteristics of the athleisure look in Alexander Wang's collections were described by the following themes: dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%). Results revealed a number of findings: First, regarding the sensuality of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang's collections, it was found to exhibit the lines of the human body and highlight sexiness and healthy beauty - with either direct or indirect body exposure. Second, the concept of dynamism is the most frequently seen - utilizing items with a comfortable or loose fit or materials that are flexible to enhance activity. Third, resistance appears as a specific style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang's signature color, black, appears often, and showcases resistance through black clothing and fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang's collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials' mixed and matched or made visually fun.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.28
• /
• pp.239-253
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.277-291
• /
• 1995

The purpose of this study is to consider the internal meaning and the external from of Dualism in Unisex Mode : to investigate the dualistic expression appeared on the Unisex Mode by analyzing the general fashion magazine. The results of the study were as follows : First, the phenomenon of Dualism in Unisex Mode may be clues indication that some roles, once assigned exclusively to either males or females, are becoming mutually shared, or what may be called human roles. Second, the expression of Dualism in Unisex Mode whether direct away of symbolic way is represented by metaphoric manner such as unisex look(mono sex look, or trans sex look) with spirit of the time’s. Third, the formality and contents that related dualistic mode shows a various method in style, coordination of texture or item.

• Journal of Information Display
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.6-15
• /
• 2009

In this paper, a new approach is proposed for the efficient generation of computer-generated holograms (CGHs) using the spatially redundant data on a 3D object and the novel look-up table (N-LUT) method. First, the pre-calculated N-point principle fringe patterns (PFPs) were calculated using the 1-point PFP of the N-LUT. Second, spatially redundant data on a 3D object were extracted and re-grouped into the N-point redundancy map using the run-length encoding (RLE) method. Then CGH patterns were generated using the spatial redundancy map and the N-LUT method. Finally, the generated hologram patterns were reconstructed. In this approach, the object points that were involved in the calculation of the CGH patterns were dramatically reduced, due to which the computational speed was increased. Some experiments with a test 3D object were carried out and the results were compared with those of conventional methods.