• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.418-424
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.350-357
• /
• 2001

In this study, seam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency of polyurethane coated fabrics were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabrics, four kinds of sewing threads and three kinds of stitch lengths. And the sewability of polyurethane coated fabrics were evaluated by FAST system. The results were as follows: 1. Seam strength decreased with the increase of stitch length. The loop strength of sewing thread and the type of base fabric than the type of coated surface had an effect on seam strength. 2. Seam elongation also decreased with the increase of stitch length and was affected by the type of base fabric. The tensile elongation of polyurethans coated fabric had an effect on seam elongation. 3. Sean efficiency also was related to stitch length, the type of base fabric, and seam strength. The suitable seam efficiency was within 50%∼65% in which polyurethane coated fabric and sewing thread broke at the same time. Therefore PS thin and PPC thin sewing threads and 3mm stitch length were suitable to polyurethane coated fabrics. 4. The relaxation shrinkage(RS) of polyurethane coated fabric was smaller than the smallest value of control chart in FAST system. And the extensibility(E) and the shear rigidity(G) were larger than the largest value.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.146-149
• /
• 2000

This study has been investigated the comparison of the seam strength of hand sewing with machine sewing using two kinds of sewing thread. On machine sewing, thread is used for sale, on hand sewing, thread is used for every fabric weft yarn. Breaking strength, efficiency and breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabric and three kinds of stitch type. The results obtained are as follows: The seam strength is not affected by sewing mechanism, but affected by a breaking mode : The type of slipped mode has a higher seam strength of hand sewing than that of machine sewing. When fabrics and threads were broken by a higher seam strength of machine sewing than that of hand sewing. Fabrics having low density using plain seam slipped more easily, so seam strength was greatly lesser. Fabrics having higher density had higher to seam strength. We should choose appropriate seams based on production, economy and aesthetics.

• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
• /
• 2008.11a
• /
• pp.464-468
• /
• 2008

In most of the passenger side airbag door in hard type IP today is designed with invisible tear-seam line. In order to design the tear-seam invisible, the tear-seam must be designed with required RWT (residual wall thickness) that is just thick enough to be broken by the PAB pressure on deployment and not by other surrounding impact forces. Hence, keeping the right optimum opening force is very important, and finding the right RWT became the key in designing the tear-seam. The study conducted in this paper describes the search for the optimum RWT around the tear-seam by using finite element method and the optimum RWT is suggested for milling type tear-seam having V-shape cross-section.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• v.4 no.2
• /
• pp.71-76
• /
• 2003

We evaluated the seam characteristics with finishing, seaming and sealing processes and seam Puckering behavior of the breathable waterproof fabrics with laser scan. There were differences in 99% significant level between the seamed fabric and the sealed fabric. Seam breakage was initiated with the breakage of sewing thread, so the seam strength after seaming was almost uniform. The sewn seam strength and elongation increased with sealing process in all finishing methods. Pucker grade of laminating type was generally much higher than that of the coating type. We confirmed that wave length and amplitude have more important meaning than the number of weave in the breathable waterproof fabrics. The puckering in breathable waterproof fabrics is mainly occurred by inherent and feeding pucker. The former if due to the insertion of sewing thread and the littler is caused by differential feeding when two pieces of fabric are fed into the gap between a press foot and needle plate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.7
• /
• pp.998-1006
• /
• 1999

This study has investigated the relation between the sewing speed and seam breaking strength applied perpendicular to the seam direction. Breaking strength efficiency breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of sewing threads and four kinds of fabrics. The results obtained are as follows : 1. According to the increase in sewing speed seam strength was remarkably decreased. Seam strength and its loss difference were shown variously as threads and fabrics were mixed. 2. In case of fabrics with higher strength seam strength showed higher. And the seam strength was determined by the loop strength. 3. In case of fabrics with lower strength seam strength and its difference for every sample showed lower. So the strength of fabrics dominated the seam strength than those of threads. 4. In the experiment using various fabrics and sewing threads there was a type of thread appropriate to each fabric. Fabrics and threads with have similar physical properties were shown proper seam efficiency. 5. The breaking mode was different for every sample seam that was tested.

• Journal of Institute of Control, Robotics and Systems
• /
• v.10 no.5
• /
• pp.411-414
• /
• 2004

In this paper, a power controller and 3 phase voltage source inverter are proposed for the improvement of weldability of large scaler Mash seam welder. The welder system is designed for the low cost and the improvement of weldability. For this system, the thyristor convertor has performed constant current controlling in the output terminal by using PAM type inverter. We have simulated our algorithm and made a prototype welder for experiment. Through the experiment, we have confirmed the improvement of weldability of our system.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.30 no.3
• /
• pp.438-443
• /
• 2006

The probe type sensor using strain gauges was used to track a container box's seam in this paper. A strain gauge has a property which the specific resistance is changed by varying of the sectional area and length when tensile and compressive stresses are generated at the strain gauge. We designed the automatic seam tracking device by attaching the probe type strain gauge sensor, motor driving slide, encorder to check the moving distance and interface card connected MPU upside the speed controllable carriage. The folded work piece for a container box is made to examine whether the device can track the seam automatically or not. Seam tracking experiments were done by changing the carriage moving speed at 300. 400. 500. 600[mm/min] each as the voltage of side track was 2.5[V]. We compared and analyzed the sampling data which is obtained by output voltage of strain gauge sensor and rotary encorder pulse every 100 [m/s]. The welding experiments were performed by using $CO_2$ welding machine about the carriage moving speed that has good seam tracking condition in the seam tracking experiments above. And we compared the seam tracking status.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.1
• /
• pp.46-55
• /
• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.433-438
• /
• 2005

Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.