• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.25-30
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• 2001

In order to investigate the influence of thread tension on the structure of lockstitch seam, stitch tightness and seam balance ratio are measured at various tensions of needle thread and bobbin thread. The structure of lockstitch was shown in terms of skeleton stitch models to obtain quantitative analysis of stitch tightness. The balanced seam formed to the rectangu1ar stitch model under low bobbin thread tension, but the fabric tightness produced by interlaced needle and bobbin thread under high bobbin thread tension. In this paper, new equation to obtain seam balance ratio was proposed for a lockstitch seam. By using the new equation, the seam balance ratio was not affected by the stitch density and fabric thickness. In order to form the balanced seam, the ratio on tension of needle thread and bobbin thread was about 6:1~7:1 in this experiment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.