• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.109-119
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• 1996

This research was conducted to investigate the characteristics of chosun people s dancing garments in Yanbian. The results were as follows : Yanbian dancing garments were generally based on Korean traditional royal-dancing garments or daily dress such as a wonsam, a bokgun, a kwaeja, a chunlip, a chogori, a bachi, and a chima. However, many parts of the dancing garments were transformed or recreated for combative, lively, energetic, and temperate dancing-motions, which represented the ideology of socialism. The transforms or recreations were found in a narrow sleeve of chogori, removal of collar and gorm in chogori, transformed kwaeja and vest, bachi, and flared chima, etc. Chosun people's dancing garments in Yanbin were mainly influenced by those of North Korea. There was great similarity between dancing garments of these two areas. The similarity could result from the acculuration of these two cultures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.293-304
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamono-katary$\boxUl$This book is a novel de-scribed the Royal Court from 883 till 1107. In this book many kinds of Garments Orna-ments Colors and Materials were mentioned. But in this paper 69 kinds of Garments and Ornaments were reserched and the rest will be reported in the next paper, The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. All the things of this book were reflections of the reality in Heian period. 2. The main styling of that period was a little bit soft but the straight silhouette were fashioned, . In that time Clothing had a special meaning and the manner for a fashion was very important, .3 In the female garments Karakoromo were developed many kinds of pattern by dyeing method, Especially the Surizome was fashioned very much. 4. there were many kinds of gray tone like as clerical robe and mouning dress. This was the effection of Buddism style. 5. The decoration of fablics and garments were usualized for instance smooding and luster by beating and starch sewuing a piece of gold silver and shell nakabe and knot bend. Shawl Yumaki and Kosizasi was a charming point of that time, . 6, hair decoration shose parasol rain coat etc, . were developed and use freuently.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.168-176
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• 2006

The court dancing suit, so-called 'Jeongjae suit', has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court's feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national guests from foreign countries. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles; Dangak-Jeongjae style and Hyangak-Jeongjae style, depending on dancing styles. This study examined the change of the dancing suits of Hyangak-Jeongjae styles created in the latter period of Joseon Dynasty, such as Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, Heoncheonhwa, and discussed the thought of EumYang-Ohaeng(the cosmic dual forces and the five elements) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. Generally, in the dancing suits of Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, and Heoncheonhwa, the color expression focused on the main stream of red, blue, yellow, white and black. The colors were mainly expressed in harmony between upper garments and under garments, outer garments and inner garments, a simple dress and its decorations. Especially, in the dancing suits of Heoncheonhwa, the purple color symbolized the auspiciousness of the Purple Palace where the God lives.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.15-27
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• 1991

This study is to investigate the royal wedding garments found out in Gn-Rs-Do-Gam-Eui-Gue during Yi Dynasty. The results are as follows: 1. The wedding garments for kings and princes, as well as for queens and princesses, had a tendency to increase in their kinds and number 2. The number of' Sang-bok (상복)' for queens and princesses was decreased about $50\%$ after the publication of Jeong-Re (정리). 3. Casual wears for queens and princesses were decreased to the halves in kind, and its number was decreased about $60\%$ .4. Clothings for court ladies showed changes in kind. 5. Documents about clothings for parents of queen's in wedding ceremony cannot be found in the literatures, such as Guk-Hon-Jeong-ke(국혼정예), Sang-Bang-Jeong-Re(상방정예). and Eui-Cue published in the 35th and 38th year of King Yeongjo's reign, respectively. 6. The number of ornamental bars including wigs was decreased about $50\%$ after the publication of Guk -Hon -Jeong- Re.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.63-73
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• 2007

Korean children's clothes have unique aesthetic characteristics distinguished from other countries'. Our folk beliefs handed down from ancient times always contained fortune - seeking thoughts and particularly mothers' earnest wishes for the happiness of their children were sublimated into the symbolic beauty of their children's clothes. The present study examined children's clothes in the royal family and among the people for 50 years of the transitional period from the late Joseon Dynasty to modern times, by classifying them into ritual dress for new-born babies, festival dress and everyday dress. Male children's clothes included caps such as Bokgeon(복건), Hogeon(호건) and Gulle(굴레) topcoats such as Durumagi(두루마기), Sagyusam(사규삼) Koija(쾌자) and Jeonbok(전복) and others such as Magoja(마고자), Baeja(배자), Joggi(조끼) and Bajijeogori(바지저고리), Female children's clothes included caps and head ornaments such as Gulle, Jobawi(조바위) and Daenggi(댕기) and others such as Durumagi, Jegori and Chima(치마). What is interesting is that old clothes handed down to the present are mostly boys' and few of them are girls'. This is probably because of the strong preference for boys rather than girls that continued until the end of the 20th century. Ordinary people dressed their new - born babies with simple white clothes until Samchilil (the 21st day) or Baekil (the 100thday) but, for these occasions, the royal family prepared clothes as formal as those for the $1^{st}$ birthday among the public. Rainbow-striped garments were more popular among the public than in the royal family. As rainbow colors were known to Korean people to dispel evil power and bring in fortunes, rainbow - striped garments were essential for the $1^{st}$ birthday and festive days. However, they were seldom used in ordinarytimes, and most boys and girls wore plain jackets and plain topcoats. When children's clothes in noble families were compared with royal family's ones, either handed down to the present or found in old literature, no significant difference was observed in the basic composition of everyday dress. In particular, it was found that Andong Kim's family had dressed their children with very formal dress such as Dopo and Sagyusam. Among children's clothes, the most gorgeous one was that worn on the $1^{st}$ birthday, and those for other occasions or festive days were similar or simpler. Colors, patterns and designs used in decorating children's clothes mostly had the meanings of seeking fortunes for children such as long life, wealth and prosperity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.22-34
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and identify the origin and the meanings of the word ho-su(胡袖) of Chosun dynasty period. Findings of this study can be summerized as follows : The original meaning of the word ho-su(胡袖) is a name of round sleeves. Later it was used as a name of a dress with round sleeves. The word ho-su as a name of a dress is an abbrecviated form of ho su so o za(好袖小 子) of a previous period. The word jyo go ri(赤古里) in historical documents is anothor name of so o za(小 子). Wearing the ho-su(胡袖) was restricted to royal family women. It was included in royal women\`s wedding garments as ordinary use. Colors of this dress was used as a means of differentiating the rank and position of the wearer.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.40-44
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• 2004

Fragrance-like style-is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.155-169
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.37-46
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• 2004

'Fleeting fragrance: the history, preservation and display of perfumed clothes' Fragrance - like style - is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.