• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.17-29
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• 2003

Long Sleeve Costume is often seen not only in ancient China but also in various neighboring places throughout the time. Costumes show the societies cultural preferences and values at that time, and Long Sleeve Costume is no exception. In my research, 1 focused on the time period from Han Dynasty to Tang dynasty in ancient China. During Han dynasty, Shenyl style robe(심의형 포) was widely worn, and it shows very little foreign cultural influence. For the period of Wei·Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties, foreign aspects of costume started to show up Possibly due to the influence of Buddhism and influx of foreign tribes. For instance, it is not too difficult to find hufu (호복) as well as Shenyl style robe, and it appears this Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties may have been a transitional period of accommodating two cultures without complete merger. Now, when it comes to Tang dynasty, we observe a creation of new cultural form in costume after adopting exotic culture. Because Sh ny style robe. often observed for a long time in Chinese history, disappeared, and tuanling(단영) and fanling(번영) became the main stream in their costume style in Tang dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.141-155
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• 1992

The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.171-182
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• 1996

This thesis is concerned with the study of the court attire the typical attire of the ju-dicial world in a point of time that more than 100 years have passed since the introduction of the modern judical system. In recognition of the fact that compiled data of the official uni-form or attire in Korea are insufficient this study placed its signification on the provision of information with focus on attire. As a result of studying court attire in Korea the conclusion was made as follows: Firstly Official attires in Yi Dynasty were divided by wearing embroidered insignia on the breast and the back of an official robe ac-cordint to court rank as well as by wearing Sa-mo in wadded clothes of Dan-ryeong and attaching all sorts of appurtenances including bands and shoes The Minister of Justice was equipped with Ho-pyo Dae-sa-heon equipped with Hae-chi the mayor of Seoul equipped with Un-an In the era of the Kng Young-jo the minister of Justice had no change in its of-ficial robe but the mayer(Pan-yun) of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-an(wild geese in clouds) changed into Un-hak In the King Ko-jog era the minister of Justice had Ho-pyo changed into Ssang-ho and the mayor of Seoul had Un-hak changed into Ssng-hak on embroideved insignia on the breast and back of an official robe. Laws and regulations concerning court attire began with the In-judgement Full-dress Uni-form Requlation for official-level Clerical Staff below the ordinary staff the Issue No. 14 of the Royal Ordinance in 1906 provided as $\ulcorner$the matter cincerning the Dress Regulation of the Tribunal staff of the Cho-sun Government-General$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 222 of the Royal Ordi-nance in 1911 and changed into$\ulcorner$the Regu-lation on the Dress of Judge Prosecutor At-torney and Law Count Clerk$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 12 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1953 affter the establishment of Korean Government since emancipation from the Japanese rule and into $\ulcorner$the Regulation concerning the Court Attire of Judge and law Court Clerical Staff$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 516 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1966. The judicial system in Korea is the system introduced from the foreign country rather than autogenously developed. And it came to pass through the Japanese colonial period it the beginning that it took root in Korea n was not stabilized in harmony with our native tradition. Accordingly the attare regulation in the judicial system took root in our society by accepting the Japanese attire regulation as it was and judical officials have come to wear the count attire similar to that of the Japanese imperialist era due to its influence though Korean independent goverment was established together with liberation form the Japanese rule. The more regrettable thing is that the current court attire has maintained the form greatly influenced by the U. S. court attire. Fortunately as the judicial circles have recently raised their voices for change in the court attire it has been told that the forma-tion of a meeting for a new court attire has been under way. The birth of the court attire into Which our tradition is sublimated is expected. This study end up with thinking that the must Korean thing is the most global thing in this era that people in the world are clamoring for globalization.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.14-16
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• 2001

• 한국토양동물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국토양동물학회 1998년도 추계학술대회
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• pp.23-23
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• 1998

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.57-64
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• 1994

This study investigates the costumes of the Most Reverend Priest, which shows a portrait of the Buddhist monk in Koryo dynasty, owned by SONG KWANG Temple. A surplice and a long sleeved Buddhist robe was chiefly shown up a portrait of a Buddhist monk. The purpose of this study find out the color, form, pattern, material, adornment of the costumes which is appeared a portrait, and also seek to changing process according to the times. the finding in this paper are ; * A surplice - color : red, green, yellow etc. form' big size surplice, provision surplice. pattern : no. material : unstriated silk. adornment' bolt, ribbon. * A long sleeved Buddhist robe- color : grey, blue, dark blue, pink, green, chestnut .etc. pattern : no. In comparison with a survery of previous studies of Buddhist comstumes, the color and type of the Koryo dynasty are more brilliant various color. In other words, the social status of monk in the Koryo is higher than present day.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.109-118
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• 1998

This study is focused on finding out the differences in wearing robe styles of Buddhist Statues between Shilla and Tien-lung Mountain. (1) Shilla Buddhist Statues are wearing Pyun-Sam that is similar to Jeogori(the traditional jacket of Korea). (2) Bok-Gyen-Uy of Tien-lung Buddhist Statues are roundish shape, and that of Shilla Buddhist Statues are oblique line. It is possible to conclude that these shapes are very concerned with the wearing style of each nation. (3) We can find another difference in the chest sash. Chest sach of Tien-lung Buddhist Statues is more functional, but that of Shilla Buddhist Statues is more decorative. (4) Wearing Kasa, Young-Ja(i,e.string of kasa) is used in Shilla Buddhist Statues, but not in Tien-lung Buddhist Statues. This the most different thing between Shilla Buddhist Statues and Tien-lung Buddhist Statues.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.210-214
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• 2009

Cave 79 of Kumtura grottoes, is the best preserved cave, which has an important meaning for research on Uighur costume. This paper is intended to analyze the costume characteristics of female donors in Cave 79 by comparing image materials between Dunhuang murals and other murals in Xinjiang province. In Cave 79, female donor wears red robe with tight sleeve, whose collar is crescent-shaped decorated. Two different opinions are upheld for this decoration. One regards this as the turn-down collar, while the other believes this as decoration on V-neckline. Red robe is quite common in female donors of Xinjiang and Dunhuang murals and a female in fresco is wearing a crown in a triangle red headwear style, regarded as red silk and drooping at head. Female donors wear an extra coat, kame hair clasp, red jacket, light-colored high-waist skirt with a long-tail waistband, and tangerine Pibo (silk ribbon) with scattered small flowers. All these costume styles are commonly-used by Han females. The kame headwear is also the common ornament for Han females and the female's hairstyle is in cone shape on head by a white kame. Current costumes are similar but not completely same.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.155-162
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• 2000

Classifying the diverse and complex clothing category of nationality subcultures in China is not a simple task. However, summing up, it can be largely classified that clothing of the northern area is long trousers and short skirt. Among the clothing of Nationality in China, especially, Pao(robe: 袍) has its diversity and colorfulness. whose elements forming its each characteristic feature has enough value to be investigated fully in the historical point of view. The conclusions of this study reveals that Pao in nationality subculture in China can possibly be divided into the four types as Qipao(旗袍) in Dongpei area, Mongopao(蒙古袍) in Inner Mongolia, Qiapan in Xinjiang area, and Zangpao in Tibet area. The modes of Qipao and Mongopao are mainly similar in that they have diagonally on the right, stand collar in composition, but Qipao shows its diversity in collar and slashes, and Mongopao also shows diversity in its colare and waistband. Since western culture flowed into China along with its open door and reform policy, the splendid color and distinctive pattern, decoration, diversified method of compositions and clothing categories of Nationality cultures are disappearing in its their originality and nationality.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.269-276
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• 1978

This thesis studied the costumes of Gwan-Rye(관예). the lowest ranking officials of Yi-Dynasty. It researched the written materials and compared it with relics of Gwan-Rye costumes. The gists of the result are; 1) The Koryo tradition of Gwan-Rye costumes continued until the early days of Yi-Dynasty. 2) The Gwan-Rye costumes can be classified into two styles. One is Sa-Ryung(사영) style, which consisted of Dan-Ryung(단령) robe and Jo-Geon(조시) as head gear. Na-Jang(라장) style. the another, consisted of Dan-Ryung. Ban-Bi-Ui(반비의) and Jo-Geon. 3) These styles changed around the days of Yeon-San(연산), the 10th King of the Dynasty. The Na-Jang of later days wore Cheop-Ri(첩리) robe instead of Dan-Ryung. And the Sa-Ryung costume was devided into three different styles. They are (1) Gat(립)- Cheop-Ri (2) Bung-Geo-Ji(단립)-Chang-Ui(창의) (3) Gat- Kwoe-Ja(쾌자) styles.