• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.467-475
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine the sewing construction of a double robe, the difference between the single and double robe, and the size and construction method of the double robe through a close analysis of a replica to facilitate a better understanding of the robe making in late Chosun dynasty. The results were as follows: 1. There was no significant difference in the design and sewing method between the girl's robe and an adult's even though the girl's robe was much smaller. 2. The girl's robe differed from its modern counterparts in some respects: unlike modem robes, Chungyun's robe consisted of two-layers in which the four layers were sewn together and it could be seen most clearly in the way the collar was stitched only onto the outer layer. The two layers seemed to be put on successively since they were not sewn together. The inner collars of the two robes were sewn together when the maker put on a coat string to the outer robe, and the two robes were put together with hemming and blind stitch at the top of the outer collars to make the robe formally stable, which clearly distinguished the princess' robe from a single, for example, four-layered robe. The robe was constructed using traditional sewing methods including broad stitch, back stitch, hemming, and blind stitch, and each stitch was only about 1 mm wide. 3. The maker of the robe managed to construct a formally stable and aesthetically satisfactory robe with the least amount of fabric and proper sewing methods.

• 복식
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.120-130
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• 2005

The main feature of Buddhist sculpture Is said to lay in how it can materialize the divineness. Therefore lots of people used to pay attention to whether its religious features draw people's reverence or not. However, the robe of Buddhist sculptures has not won its proper attention. The Buddhist robe Is usually considered as a mere measure to make Buddha's supernatural feature more vivid. However, contrary to our expectation, the robe is the very real one which can be found in people's lift. The Gandhara Buddhist sculpture robe does not have sleeves, but several sheet of clothes covered the sculpture. Moreover, we can find same features in monk's robe which appeared in the Gandhara art. I can therefore conclude that this robe is not confined to Buddha, but is very popular one in that time in Gandhara. This article would survey the main feature and its relevant things about Gandhara Buddhist sculpture's robe, especially its change process while it had been transmitted to China.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.131-142
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• 2000

The philological consideration of Korean Buddhist Monk's robe and its reviving have been investigated in traditional way. The configuration and colour of Korean Buddhist monk's robes have been properly adapted for an period, territory, and atmospheric phenomena. In case of Korea, introduced Buddhism from China realize modern robe from under the influence of fusion of Chinese ornament culture and Korean traditional ornament culture. As a result of this modern robe has been consisted of a Buddhist monk's robe and a cope. The modem robes has been significantly affected by industrialization, contrary to ancient time taxed robes as public imposts. At present be familiar in mass production we have a preference for the easier way in making and even color forming. In this paper it is focused on dyeing part, which recognized its important in latest time, at first declined according to appearance of chemical dye, evaluated its convenience in use. That is, it is increased natural dye, people begin with recognition of difference of physical properties for dress dyed with chemical pigment and that with natural pigment. In consequence, I have presented that both making colour of gray using traditional method, and three demolished-color prescribed by Buddhist law. Of course, though it become generally know that dyeing of robes occupied significant part of traditional natural dyeing. But in case of religion, it also is important to know symbolical meaning involved in its colour. Most of Buddhism-believers or even Buddhists who actually be dress in robe are without knowing the meaning of colour, or its revealing method. There, I have considered mating three colour of demolished- color included blue, black, and red, and also represented dyeing method of Buddhist monk's robe using both charcoal and ink-spick. From religious font of view, as robes contains involving of blessing, I have an intention of improvement way in dyeing and succession and development of traditional culture through consideration of traditional dyeing method. And I have also intended to restoration the value of robe's colour, disappeared by the time. moreover, I have shown that dyeing with natural pigment is profitable for both environment and sanitary aspect.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.71-86
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.15-23
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• 1977

This article is to study Dopo, man's traditional robe, which was worn by courtiers and scholars in Yi dynasty (AD 1392-1910). This article deals with its history and transition according to relative documents available, and presents its construction method with reference to relics. It is recorded that Dopo was first worn about the middle of the time of Yi dynasty. Dopo, however, seems to have its origin in the robe of Koguryo dynasty (BC 37-AD 668). Dopo was an ordinary robe to court officials, whereas Confucian scholars wore it as an official uniform or a ritual robe. ft was a long over-coat with V-neck line, and, round and wide sleeves. Dopo was so long that its edge reached wearer's ankels. One of the widest sleeves of relics was 58cm in size. Another unique characteristics Dopo had, were that its back cloth splited in two on center line, which was fully covered and added with-another cloth called 'Jeonsam'. Accordingly, a cloth-30cm in width and 30 yards in length-was needed to make Dopo. Since the reform of 1894 it was prohibited to wear, and then was replaced with Durumagi, a strait collar and narrow-sleeved robe.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.183-200
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine the custume of Stone statues in roylal tombs and graves in Shilla dynasty. Stone statues in royal tombs and graves in Shilla dynasty. Stone statues in royal tombs and graves are divided into statues of the twelve horary signs(十二支像) and stone figure of a man(石人像). The results are as follows. 1. Statues of the twelve horary signs are found eleven in royal tombs and graves. First statues of the twelve horary signs in assumed Shinmunwangrung(推定神文王陵) wear long robe(長袍) pants(袴) skirt(裙) It says that the costume element of Shilla and the costume element of Tang are mixed. But statues of the twelve horary signs was developed as a tutelary god. Statues of the twelve horary signs in Kimyoushinmyo(金庾信墓) wear jacket pants(袴) instead of long robe(長袍). Also as attaching instead of long robe. Also as attaching other color cloth in collar of jacket or not they are showing dress of mulitary officer. next statues of the twelve horary signs in Hondokwangrung(憲德王陵) wear long robe(長袍) pants(袴). it says that they imitate assumed Shinmunwangrung(推定神文王陵) Kimyoushinmyo(金庾信墓). And statues of the twelve horary signs in the rest of royal tombs and graves put on decorative armor. 2. Stone figure of a man are found is Song-dokwangrung(聖德王陵) Wonsongwangrung(元聖王陵), Hungdokwangrung(興德王陵) and divided into two types. Type 1 wear long robe(長袍) and Yangdang(裲襠). They stend for the best dress uniform of military officer. Type 2 wear Danreong(團領) with side slash. They stend for common soldier.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.177-183
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• 1978

Byul-Gam is a low-ranking official who takes charge of sundry services in Yi-Dynasty court, and escorts his king when he make a honored going. Uniforms of Byul-Gam are noted for their gaiety. This study aims at inquiring into uniforms of Byul-Gam through historical records. The resultant findings are as follows: 1) Uniforms of Byul-Gam are divided into full dress and ordinary clothes. 2) The full dress has two kinds of style. One is Dan-Ryung, a kind of robe, clad together with Gun as a headdress. This robe is blue, Gun for king's Byul-Gam violet, and Gun for the Crown Prince's Byul-Gam blue. The other is a combination of yellow Cho-Rip and red Chup-Ri. This is a military uniform. 3) Ordinary dresses for Byul-Gam are orange Cho-Rip and red Jik-Ryung. Underwear in this case is Hyup-Joo-Um and Chup-Ri. Hyup-Joo-Um is a kind of robe. Inside it Korean style of jacket and slacks are usually clad. 4) As time passed, the uniform of Byul-Gam had been changed from Cheong-Dan-Ryung to Hong-Dan-Ryung, and Jik-Ryung had been shifted to a full dress. 5) Only five remains of Jik-Ryung for Byul-Gam have been handed down to us. The analysis of those indicate that they gradually became similar to Duru-Magi, a kind of Korean robe. This fact is common in the other transfiguring process of dresses of robe kind.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.211-219
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• 1995

In this study of the Buddhist Stone Statues in Namsan in Kyungju. We have found out interesting facts as follow. This study is focused on the way the Buddhist Statues wear the robes. There are two basical types of wearing ; Tongkyun and Pyundanwookyun. In Silla, these types of wearing has been developed into its unique types based on the traditional culture. The stone Buddhist images show seven types of wearing based on the standard ones of Tongkyun and Pyundanwookyun. This variety in wearing rests on the various of Sungkari(Samghathi) and Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) and a chest sash which fixes Niwonsung(Nivasana). There are three cases inferred from the seven types of wearing the Buddha's robes : (1)Tonkyun type A: The only outer wear Sungkari(Samghathi) was put on as Tongkyun type. We can't find out any Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) or the chest sash of Niwonsung(Nivasana). (2)Tongkyun type B: Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) is put on the chest of Statue in Sungkari(Samghathi). (3)Tongkyun type C: This type is similar to Tonkyun type A, except that the end of the robe dangled down straight to the right side. (4)Tongkyun type D: Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) is bound with a chest sash. (5)Tongkyun type C: The robe is tied on the left shoulder as a cord and Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) is bound with a chest sash. (6)Pyundanwookyun type A: The robe dangled down from the left shoulder to the right armpit diagonally, so left shoulder is naked. (7)Pyundanwookyun type B: This type is similiar to Pyundanwookyun type A, but the end of Sungkari(Samghathi) is bound up to the left shoulder again. Considering above, the robe types of Buddha seem to have something to do with those of the Silla people: The chest sash is similar to the adjustment of Jeogori(the traditional jacket) of the Silla, and the typing cord in Buddha's robe corresponds to that of the traditional types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.129-143
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• 1997

This study is about'The Costumes of Ch'oyong dance. (namely Ch'oyong-mu-bok; 처용무복)': emphasis on its structure and change. 1 studied Akhakguebum (the book of music and dance; 낙학궤범), Eui-Gue-Do (a collection of a series of paintings showing the whole processes of the royal courtesies and ceremonies; 의궤도) and some genre painting (풍증화). 'The costumes of Ch'oyong-Dance'were composed of robe(의), pants-skirt(대) , outer-skirt (상) , scarf-string(천의·길경) , shirt(한삼) , hat with mask (사교·가면) , belt(대) and shoes (혜) . According to the position, the colours of robe(의) and pants-skirt(군) were different. What is called, it is'the Colour of Five-Position (오방색) .'The Costumes of choyong-Dance' can be divided three factors by its symbolic means; i. e. shamanism, buddhism and bureaucratism. The pants-skirt(군), outer-skirts(상), scarf · string(천의·길경) and mask are considered as shamanic factor. However, the scarf(천의) , string(길경) and patterns(만화)which are decorated with many lotus patterns enclosed with vine are considered as buddhistic factor. And the hat (사모) , robe(의) , outer-skirt(상) , belt(대) and shoes(잔) are considered as bureaucratic factor. Ch'oyong is endowed with some power by these factors, and its symbolic means became stronger and enlarged by 'the Colour of five-position'. As time goes, the forms and details of robe had been changed noticeable; sleeve-width, neck-line and patterns. The shamanic, buddhistic and bureaucratic factors are reduced. These changes were derived from the changes of Ch'oyong·Dance. On the ground of the shape of mask and round-neckline robe(단영) , someone has an opinion that Ch'oyong is an aribian. However, according to this study, Ch'oyonh is Korean traditional thing; round-neckline robe already existed and settled in Silla dynasty and Ch'oyong-mask symbolized shamanic power.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2000

Dragon robe was defined as a robe on which the principal design consisted of dragon. Dragon patterns have been used on princess robes during T'and Dynasty. In Sung, Dragon-figured robes seem to have an Imperial prerogative. Yuan took over the use of robes with dragons patterns as a definite institition. Ming tried to reject all Yuan innovations, the dragon robe was retained as an unofficial court costume. The Emperor's semiformal robes which at first had four dragon medallions, later had twelve along with the 12 Symbols(십이장문). As Ch'ing dragon robes were only intended fro semiformal use. The Later Ch'ing robes date from after 1719, when the Ch'ien-lung(건륭) introduced 12 Symbols on Ch'ing robes. The Ch'ien-lung laws were disobeyed, notably the ones that specified the number of claws on the dragons. THe Emperor's dragon robe, lung-p'ao, (용포) was described as bright yellow in color, having four slits and horsefoof cuffs. The basic pattern consisted of nin dragons, in addition it had 12 Symbols. The elaborate textile techniques reached their peak in Ch'ing Dynasty-with its Weaving and Dyeing Office in Peking, and this factories at Hangchow(항주), Soochow(소주), and Naking(남경) -helps to explain why the decay of the Ch'ing bureaucracy hastended the decline of dragon robes. In the Ch'ing Dynasty tow terms were used for dragon robe, depending on the number of claws on the dragons. Those with five-clawed dragons were called lung-p'ao, while those with four-clawed dragons were called mang-p'ao(망포). The Court felt compelled to take corrective meausres. It decreeed that Ninisters of State and other officials, who had been bestowed five-clawed lung dragons, must take out one claw. Finally, the sale of ranks and the attendant privilege of wearing dragon robes gradually increased during the 18 th century, reaching its height in the 19 th century, Finally, after the Taiping Rebellion, when the Imperial Treasury was depleted by the wholesale destruction of revenue-producing lands, the Chinese government came to depend on such sales as an important source of revenue and the practice became even more widespread. The ensuing mass production of dragon robes, and the necessity of conforming to the fairly rigid basic pattern established in 1759, resulted in marked deterioration of workmanship, and a comparative monotony of decoration. The patterns on the dragon robes slight changes continued to be made in the ways of representign them. The li shui (입수) portion at the base of the robe become inreasingly wider throughout the 19th century. The background became cluttered with symbols of good fortune, scattered among the clouds and waves. As a result of all this extraneous decoration, the dragons were so crowded that they had to shrink back into the small size that they had originally occupied in the medallons. Kuang-hsu(광저) was a long one, allowing time for the manufacture of numerous robes. Also, it would seem likely that Occidental museums and collections would have a considerable number of his robes, in view of the widespread looting of his palaces during the Allied occupation of Peking in 1900, and the frequent sales of Late Ch'ing imperial textiles by destitute Manchu courtiers in the '20's.