• 제목/요약/키워드: revolting spirit of the times

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혁명적 변화에 나타난 NEW FASHION의 발생 및 특징에 관한 연구 - CHRISTIAN DIOR의 THE NEW LOOK을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Generation and Characteristic of New Fashion Found in Changes in Revolutionary Fashion - Focused on the New Look of Christian Dior -)

  • 곽태기
    • 복식
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    • 제51권1호
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    • pp.129-143
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    • 2001
  • Particular historic events such as revolution and wars have given rise to fashion. Luxurious costume representative of the aristocratic culture since the French Revolution was changed into popular look with the collapse of the royal regime. With the restoration of the royal regime by Napoleon, rapid changes associated with the reemergence of the costume of aristocratic brought an opportunity for the revolutionary fashion of bringing about new fashion in the fashion field. Especially, the New Look Presented by Christian Dior in 1947 shortly after the Second World War would be the typical style of revolutionary fashion. Accordingly, this study attempted to analyse the characteristics of new fashion regarding how new fashion occurred and developed in changes in revolutionary fashion after the Revolution and the War, in conjunction with the zeitgeist(time split) of rapid social changes. The ultimate purpose of this study was find out the significance of fashion as to how and why fashion changed in relation to the factors of changes in fashion in the history and create new future fashion by reinterpreting new aesthetic consciousness about the characteristic of new fashion found in changes in revolutionary fashion.

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벨 에포크와 다다이즘 - 근대문화의 총체와 해체 (Belle Epoque and Dadaism in the Modern Culture)

  • 이병수
    • 비교문화연구
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    • 제33권
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    • pp.171-192
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    • 2013
  • The article is a research about the Belle Epoque era and Dadaism in the modern culture as a whole and separate. The years from 1890s to 1914, is known as the Belle Epoque era, in which the European continent including France had developed the climax of the modern culture after the Renaissance. At the same time, it was the period where the postmodern developments were being spread, leading to the present days. Moreover, the main ideologies in art that led to the cultural advancement of the time were impressionism, cubism, art nouveau, evolutionized painting category, symbolism and futurism. It was a literature category that was maintained to present Dadaism and surrealism. Dadaism began since the magazine, Bulletin Dada was published, originating in 1916 by Tristan Tzara of Zurich, Switzerland during the WWI. The extreme motto that the Dadaists supported was a contradiction, as they had to dissolve from their own art movements and expression techniques. However, until Andre Breton introduced 'Manifeste du Surrealisme' in 1924, the "Dada group" had a tremendous influence in France as an epicenter and rejected the modern cause and art that continued during the time, thus attempting its dissolution. First, they rejected the ideology, ethics and customs of rationalism from the previous system and demonstrate an anarchical and anti-bourgeoisie characteristic. They also reject the French lucid thoughts and the artistic techniques. They strongly emphasized on their motto "The idea is created from the mouth", while reframing from the philosophical ideology and at the same time, attempting to express the psychical unconsciousness. Second, the most important catchphrase that the Dadaists supported was the theory of negation. The question "Why do you write?" connotes the negative consciousness about the artistic value and the stereotyped method of the preexisting writing and drawing. Third, the Dadaists bring forward a radical query about all of the former esthetic and morals, and reveal an admirable resistance spirit. They emphasized on the slogan "Dada, means nothing" and insist on 'the anti-literal Dada, anti-artistic Dada, anti-musical Dada'. The Dadaist movement manifested their resistant spirit and the new artistic spirit through the publication of , , and most importantly through the magazine . Fourth, the Dadaists embodied the volume, density, and quality into an image through the auto-technical, cubistic writings and drawings. They ignored the fixed form of arrangements, verses, and rhymes of a poetic diction. The Dadaists utilized an unfamiliar and inversed expression method of applying the combination of the size of print, or capital letters and lowercase letters, even combining printed and handwritten writings. As presented, the auto-technical and cubistic characteristic of expressing the auto-psychical ideology into writing is called as the radical aesthetic and moral and can be considered as the most essential cause of the Dadaists' avant-garde features. As a conclusion, Dadaism demonstrated dual characteristics of consuming the nutritive elements of the modern culture through the most powerful resistance and liberation of the artistic movement of the Belle Epoque era, where at the same time, it deconstructed the modern art. By revolting against the former grounds and expression techniques, and dominating the era with the new artistic spirit, their resistant actions were artistic movements that symbolized the dissolution of the modern times. Moreover, the Dada's expressionism and resistance of saying "There's nothing" can be evaluated as postmodernity's initiative of outweighing the modern history and opening the door for new period of nowadays.