• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.185-199
• /
• 2004

This study is intended to examine Honore Daurnier's realism formativeness, review it in connection with socio-cultural conditions, analyze costume designs by a style of realism formativeness, in order to find the value. For the study, the procedure included the review of Daurnier's works and world, together with realism formativeness. Then, Daurnier's realism formativeness applied to costume designs were categorized and found the features of each style. Finally, it sought the implication of realism formativeness in costume designs. Honore Daumier, a realist of France in the 19th century, has been reputed that he pursues plain reality with a satire, uses all the conditions of humans as his object, and observes the vanity, desire, and foolishness of humans to represent his own expression techniques as cold as a stone. Realism formativeness is characterized by adherence to observing reality and engagement in reality, an effort to represent the world as it is as what we sense it without diluting or omitting it, nor any deception. The following terms can be used to describe the three styles of intentional recreation, satire on reality, and real existence; For intentional recreation in costume may be featured by the avant-garde, the pursuit of autonomy, reconstruction, rediscovery, recombination, reinterpretation, neutralized representation (reality ＋ the abstract), transformation, distortion, shock, and unexpectedness, etc. For satire on reality in costume, satirical criticism and mockery in a coexistence of time and space, dualism due to the combination of the exterior and the interior, reality reflecting the actual reality, and irony are those words. Real existence in costume may be described with objectivity, ordinariness, correctness of representing a theme, impersonality excluding subjectivity, clearness, certainness, and preciseness, etc.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제29권2호
• /
• pp.153-166
• /
• 2021

In this study, the artistic background and formative nature of representative 19th century realist artists Gustave Courbet and Honoré Daumier were analyzed and applied in a fashion context. By displaying representational desires (necessary adhesions of man and society) in their work, they became characteristic matrixes of critical realism and to perceive critical realism. The purpose of the study was to apply the characteristics of critical realism to the contemporary fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Research was conducted to analyze the characteristics that appear in the field of fashion and to review methods of expression and internal aesthetics displayed through various aspects of fashion design. Characteristics of critical realism were analyzed by researching the formativeness and periodical background of the paintings of Courbet and Daumier. Based on these characteristics, analysis was conducted to identify critical realism in the fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Data and scope included fashion information sites, internet photo data, and video material. Critical realist characteristics were categorized into five types as follows: 'The proper borrowing of extremely realistic subjects signifies', 'satirical reconstruction and narrative composition', 'antipathetic distortions and abject representations', 'critical reproductions based on technology', and 'the maximization of ambivalent sexuality'. It was concluded that the characteristics of critical realism (recognized by the common formation of Courbet and Daumier) also appeared in Alexander McQueen's fashion collection but were inherited in a form that transcended pictorial expression due to the overall difference in use of visual arts.

• 복식
• /
• 제32권
• /
• pp.163-182
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.