• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.275-292
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to recognize the aesthetic characteristics of the Maximalism depicted in contemporary costumes of new millennium. This is done by analyzing and examining the social and cultural background of fashion in the few years of 21st century. The fashion trend of the beginning of 21st century was coexisted conflicting factors with ultramodern factor and past recurrent factor. For that reason, new millennium is to be existence background of Maximalism style in contemporary costumes. The social and cultural background of Maximalism was regarded as characteristics of the Glocalism, fusion style, bobos. Glocalism means a compound word of Globalism and Localism, and used various fields of policy, economics, society etc. Consequently, the aesthetic formativeness of Maximalism of the contemporary costumes was investigated as the 'Romantic Hippie Look' and 'Romantic Sports Look' 1) Romantic Hippie Look New millennium fashion trend is affected by hippie style of 1970's. That is major reason that the antiwar consciousness of 9.11 terror, USA-Afganistan war and the economic depression is similar to 1970's situation. Accordingly, fashion trend is developed into bright, light, romantic style and fashion designers chose materials with flowers, butterflies, dragonflies pattern. Because the clothing of these material reflects well modern people's feeling to escape misgivings, unrest of political terror, war etc. The characteristics of hippie style expressed freedom as the greatest merit was raised new trend, so called 'Romantic Hippie Look' on new millennium. That is, the romantic hippie look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multiculturalism and nationalism. 2) Romantic Sports Look : The beginning of new millennium, many fashion designers intend to graft the details of sports wear on order made or ready made clothing and try to show luxury and cheerful fashion design with combination of sporty and romantic factors. Accordingly, theses fashion trends expressed 'Romantic Sports Look' with a harmony or disharmony of unusual factors. The fashion trend of new millennium centering around special cities like New York, Paris, Milan moved to various regional culture. Accordingly, the features of fashion depicted not unique theme but multiplicity of the clothing of dissimilar style or material by the mixture of 2 or 3 factors like the fusion of femininity and masculinity and the combination of past and present of details. That is, the romantic sports look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multi-functional and crossover.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.135-158
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to provide for the useful fundamental data by developing an appearl sizing system according to body types for Chinese Adult Female. Thus, it was to improve of fittness and coverage rate of exporting domestic clothing to China. For study, It was measured 1360 female women aged between 19 and 50 who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. as a sample, 1381 female women was seleted for development of apparel sizing system. Thus, this study was to characterize body types of Chinese adult female by classifying them into groups and set coverage rate of ready-made clothes by developing an apparel sizing system according to the Women's Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. As for the method of this study was done during Jun. 23 $\sim$ Aug. 7, 2004. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used to for technical statistical analysis. The result was as follows: The clothes dimension for upper and lower body and the coverage rate of body size that had the highest appearance ratio from the entire group was Y-type 160-84$\cdot$160-64(4.6%) and the section 160cm 32.4%, A-type 160-88$\cdot$160-72(3.3%) and the section 160cm 28.1%, B-type 155-88$\cdot$155-78(3.8%) and the section 155cm 27.8%, C-type 150-96$\cdot$150-88(2.5%). The result By setting of representative size number and production coverage rate for Chinese adult female. The representative size number of the entire group was set for 150-80A$\cdot$150-64A(1.0%), 155-84A$\cdot$155-68A(2.6%), 160-88A$\cdot$160-72A(3.3%), 165-84A$\cdot$165-68A (2.8%), 170-96A$\cdot$170-80A(0%). The production coverage rate for each representative size number was SS size the section 150cm 2.8%, size the section 155cm 17.0%, M size the section 160cm 31.6%, L size the section 165cm 25.0%, XL size the section 170cm 12.6% that covered 85.0%.