• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권12호
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• pp.1477-1485
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• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.140-146
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• 1999

Colorants in green tea were extracted freeze-dried and analyzed to investigate the possibility of using as a natural dye. Fractionation of the colorants was carried out by column chromatograpy. Colorants in green tea were eluted into five fractions. All the fractions except fraction F2 showed absorption peakat 280nm. Fraction f2 showed absorption peak at 270nm and broad peak at 350nm, From the IR analysis it is speculated that fractions F2-F5 having similar stucture but different molecular weight are catechis. Silk fabrics dyes with fractions F1-F4 showed yellowish red color while sample dyed with fraction F5 showed red color. The colorants from green tea infusion was applied to silk wool nylon cotton and rayon fabrices. It showed relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers bur low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2009

This study systematically investigated a method for extraction of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) colorants by ultrasonic treatment. Compared to pigments productivity and cell wall structures of safflower after general and ultrasonic method, the ultrasonic method showed high extraction efficiency of safflower pigments due to destruction of safflower cell wall caused by high vibration energies. Microscopic analysis confirmed the hypothesis that the ultrasonic treatment of safflower caused its cell wall structure loosened and made efficient extraction of safflower pigments. And also, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that productivities of the yellow and red safflower pigments by ultrasonic method were 21.9% and 14.6% higher, respectively, than those of pigments extracted by general method. The ultrasonic extracted yellow and red colorants could be used to dye not only natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool, but also synthetic fiber like nylon, and generally gave a better color tone than the general extracted colorants from safflower due to the affinities of red and yellow colorant on different fibers. As the yellow and red colorant were extracted by ultrasonic treatment in water, the K/S value on of 550/440nm of cotton and rayon was increased but in the case of silk and wool the change of this value was almost not detected. Finally, this technique might provide a solution to establish reproducibility and standardization for the extraction and dyeing methods on fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2004

The modems who lives complicated society, the silence which the Orient thought asserts leads and to get comfortable. It is becoming, the like this social atmosphere will in the interest regarding a manual example and the Orient material, the use of the embroidery textile goods is increasing specially. The purpose of this article is to suggest a model for development of machine embroidery fabric material and highly value added apparel industries. The multi-headed embroidery machine where the application scope is wide from the dissertation, we are requested' NaNa company'. The multiheaded embroidery machine uses TAJIMA TMFD-G620 and SUNSTAR SWF-／B-WD(X) 620-100 the embroidery textile uses the silk, the cotton and the synthesis fertile goods etc 24 type, the embroidery thread Maraton thread(viscose rayon 100％) with used the cord. The 8 Korean motives are made on 23 fabrics, 6 of which are full-sized manufactured one-pieces and the other 17 of which are produced to home interior goods such as curtains or fashion accessories like handbags as simulations. Among the products, the pattern-4-1 and the pattern-4-2 are contracted with local fashion industry, and the pattern-1-1～3 are dealing with other companies in Japan. The computerized machine-embroidering and simulation producing of fashion items are available to reduce the cost in making samples and transfer the old labor ＆ toil-centered industry into the new technique ＆ knowledge centered one.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.10-19
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• 1993

Broad, mercerized broad, mercerized twill cotton fabrics and rayon fabric were treated with cellulase for 30~480 minutes at different temperature, concentration, time, and also treating methods such as continuously-treated or repeatedly-treated, and dyed with two direct dyes before or after enzyme treatment. From the experimental result by treating under the various conditions above, it was obtained that the weight loss increased more in thin fabric than thick one. In addition, it was considered that the treatment in 5$0^{\circ}C$ for 240 minutes brought about the ideal weight loss and flexible hand of the specimens. For both broad and mercerized broad, repeated treatment showed more weight loss than continuous. Direct dye on cotton fabric apparently inhibited hydrolysis. Ionic surfactants showed the inhibition effect of the catalytic hydrolysis of enzyme, on the other hand, nonionic surfactant did not.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제45차 학술발표회
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• pp.21-21
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• 2011

개인적 삶의 질 향상과 함께 사회적인 삶의 가치를 추구하여 인체친화적이며 동시에 환경 친화적인 제품 소비에 가치를 두는 LOHAS 트렌드의 영향으로 의류 제품에서는 소비자의 요구 수준에 맞춘 고급화, 고기능화된 의류 상품 및 소재 중심의 소비와 함께 친환경 소재, 리사이클 소재 등에 대한 관심이 증가하고 있다. 최근 Ramie 복합 소재는 이러한 트렌드에 적합한 대표적인 소재로서 고감성/웰빙 신섬유 제품 개발을 통해 신시장 개척이 가능한 아이템으로 주목받고 있다. 한편, Ramie는 땀에 대한 흡습성과 속건성이 우수하고 청량감이 있어 주로 여름 소재로 활용되어 왔으나 촉감이 좋지 못하고 광택성이 떨어지는 단점이 있어 이를 보완하기 위해 촉감이 좋고 광택성이 뛰어난 레이온 계열의 소재와 혼방하여 고급스럽고 환경 친화적인 의류소재로써 개발이 진행되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 레이온계 섬유 중에서 상품성이 modal 섬유 Tencel 섬유를 각각 혼방한 Ramie/Modal(28's,30's), Ramie/Tencel(28's) 복합소재의 반응성 염료에 대한 염색특성을 비교 고찰해 보았다. 실험은 Heterobifunctional type 반응성 염료 3종(Red, Yellow, Blue)을 이용하여 흡진 거동, 빌드업 특성, 겉보기 색상농도 등을 비교하였으며 1/1 standard 농도에서의 제반 견뢰도를 비교 평가하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권6호
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• pp.924-937
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• 2015

This study surveyed the recognition and credibility of infant's organic cotton apparel and examined the current quality of children's organic cotton clothes available in the market. This study contributes to improve fabric certification programs and safety standards by understanding customer opinions and actual quality. A customer survey revealed that customers believe that organic cotton products should not include chemicals such as pesticides, fluorescent whitening agents and chemical colors; in addition, customers have high expectations for safety as well as worries about the products' validity. Children's underwear was the most purchased item category among organic cotton products. Current organic cotton certification programs are voluntary with multiple organizations that provide various certification standards. A total of 34.2% of children's organic cotton clothes sold at online and offline stores were not certified, and 10.5% had invalid certification information. This may substantially lower the credibility of organic cotton products and requires immediate change. Examination of organic cotton products showed that products do not meet customer expectations for quality and safety: 3 out of 8 products used accessories (buttons and wappens) that include harmful chemicals such as lead, phthalate and formaldehyde, 6 products used fluorescent whitening agents, and 4 products used other fabrics such as rayon, polyurethane and polyester. GOTS mark is the most recognized organic certification, but it still allows the usage of fluorescent whitening agents, which indicates a gap between customer opinions and actual certification standards. Managing national-level mandatory certification programs like food and setting quality standards that meets customer expectations are required to enhance the credibility of organic cotton products.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.22-37
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• 2009

The main purpose of this research was to provide an example of a scientific and systematic approach to designing nurses' uniforms. Uniforms for the staff nurses and head nurses at Korea University Medical Centers were designed through the following four steps: research and analyses, design direction establishment, design presentation, and final decision. For the research and analyses, a focused group interview with 14 head nurses were conducted before the actual questionnaires were formed and distributed to 200 nurses at the medical centers. The data collected from 182 among 200 subjects were able to be used for the statistical analyses. As a result, the majority of nurses were not satisfied with the present nurse uniforms. They preferred pants to skirts, and straight pants to tapered pants. Blouses or jackets that slightly cover hips with sleeves reaching above the wrists were also preferred. Many respondents wanted uniforms that were practical and easy to manage. The ideal image of nursing uniforms were feminine, lively, active, light, cool, simple, and modern. According to the research and analyses result, design directions were established and uniform designs were presented to head nurses. Uniforms were designed based on symbols of Korea University and Korea University Medical Centers. Colors including white, pink, and grey were selected to represent the ideal image of nursing uniforms designated by the respondents. Fabrics including polyester(95%) and spandex(5%) blends, polyester(48%), rayon(48%), and spandex(4%) blends, and cotton(100%) were used for making garment samples. Final designs were decided by selecting and modifying the designs presented to the head nurses.