• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.349-355
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• 2010

To investigate the half-degumming of raw silk, the degumming was carried out with soap or sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate and some mixed agents at $80^{\circ}C$ for 15 and 30 minutes. With soap of 20~25%o.w.f. degumming losses were about 7~12%. Degumming losses with sodium carbonate of 2~5%o.w.f. were about 6~15%. And about 6~12% wright losses were observed in the degumming with sodium bicarbonate of 20~30%o.w.f. In the degumming with the mixed degumming agents of soap and sodium carbonate, degumming losses were 9~15% with 5%o.w.f. soap and 2~5%o.w.f. sodium carbonate. Sodium carbonate was more effective on the removal of sericin from raw silk than soap. During drying generally half degummed silk yarns stuck together to result in harsh and hard lumps by the adhesion and solidification of the residue sericin of partially degummed silk. Sodium hydrosulfite in degumming agent effectively protected the adhesion of half degummed silk yarns.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.19-24
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• 2014

Silk has always been one of the most favored textile materials. Fully degummed silk fiber (i.e., silk fibers without sericin) shows better luster than raw silk fiber (with sericin); it is also softer. On the other hand, raw silk fiber feels cooler because of the presence of sericin, making it useful as a textile for the summer season. Recently, partially degummed silk has attracted researchers' attention because it provides better luster, feel, and dyeing properties. However, the partial degumming of silk is very difficult because it results in inhomogeneously degummed fiber. In the present study, silk yarns were degummed with surfactant aqueous solutions and the effects of each surfactant on the degumming ratio, crystallinity, and homogeneity of the degummed silk yarn were examined. The degumming ratio and crystallinity index of silk yarn varied depending on the type of surfactant. On the whole, anionic surfactants resulted in higher degumming ratios and better homogeneity than nonionic surfactants.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.54-60
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• 2013

The partial degumming of silk has recently attracted researchers' attention because of its ability to produce silk textiles with new tactile properties, intermediate between the softness of fully degummed silk and the hardness of raw silk. However, it is difficult to obtain partially degummed silk in a homogenously degummed state due to the heterogeneous character of sericin removal. It is also difficult to examine the homogeneity of degumming. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection (ATR) geometry was used to evaluate the effect of processing conditions on the degumming of silk yarns. The crystallinity index, calculated from FTIR spectra, showed an increase with the degumming ratio. Therefore, the homogeneity of degumming could be evaluated by the variation of crystallinity index for 30 different spots in silk yarns. The homogeneity of degumming was influenced by the total degumming time, the content of surfactant, and the liquor rate. No effect was observed upon changing the number of degumming cycles at the same total degumming time.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.93-98
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• 2017

The fixing behaviors of raw silk yarns treated with melamine and formaldehyde at a molar ratio of 1:3 for trimethylolmelamine were investigated. Sericin was fixed during the fixing process, but a part of sericin I was removed simultaneously by hot water. The weight losses by fixing and the degumming losses by degumming greatly decreased with increasing concentrations of melamine and formaldehyde. The silk yarns fixed with 0.011 M melamine and 0.033M formaldehyde were significantly degummed due to the insufficient fixation of sericin and the alkaline hydrolysis of sericin by sodium carbonate during the degumming process. On the other hand, the silk yarns fixed with 0.055M melamine and 0.165M formaldehyde were degummed slightly (the degumming losses of 3-8%) due to the strong fixation of sericin, which might result from the many cross-linkages between the sericin I molecules, which were formed by trimethylolmelamine. Those fixed with the fixing solution containing 15% owf softener showed the lowest weight and degumming losses because under the condition of 15% owf softener, the cation of the softener can effectively form ionic bonds with the negatively charged side chain of aspartic acid in sericin. In addition, van der Waals' forces may be also formed between the hydrophobic tail of the softener and the hydrophobic region of sericin, which may help inhibit the removal of sericin I.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.28-43
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• 2013

Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.219-234
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• 2014

Fabrics, natural dyed fabrics, papers, natural dyed papers and paints were examined effects of colors and mechanical properties for materials of museum collections under anoxic treatment. Anoxic conditions using nitrogen and argon were oxygen concentration 0.01%, temperature($20^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $30^{\circ}C$), 50% RH and exposure time 30 days. Examined fabrics were raw silk fabric, UV irradiated raw silk fabric, degummed silk fabric, UV irradiated degummed silk fabric, cotton fabric, and UV irradiated cotton fabric. Natural dyed silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with fresh indigo, indigo, safflower, gromwell, madder sappanwood, amur cork tree, turmeric, gardenia, barberry root, pagoda tree flower, cochineal, lac, alnus japonica, gallnut, chestnut shell, and combination(indigo and safflower, indigo and amur cork tree, indigo and pagoda tree flower, indigo and sappanwood). Papers were Korean papers(mulberry paper, mulberry(70%) and rice straw(30%) mixed paper), Japanese paper(gampi paper), cotton paper, refined linen paper, cotton, linen & manila mixed fibre furnish, copy paper, news print, and alum sized mulberry paper. Natural dyed papers were dyed with indigo, sappanwood, madder, safflower, gardenia, amur cork tree, and pagoda tree flower. Paints were painted on alum-sized papers and silk fabrics using glue and pigments(azurite, malachite, cinnabar, vermilion, orpiment, gamboge, red lead, haematite, iron oxide red, indigo(lake), lac, cochineal, safflower, madder root lake, celadonite, smalt, ultramarine blue, lapis lazuli, prussian blue, kaolin, lead white, oyster-shell white, and clam-shell white). The color differences(${\Delta}E^*$) of all examined materials were below 1.5 or lowered than control samples after anoxic treatment. The variations of tenacity of yarns of fabrics and natural dyed fabrics after anoxic treatment were within that of standard silk and cotton fabrics. Gases(nitrogen and argon) and temperatures of anoxic treatment did not also affected color differences and variations of tenacity of materials.