• Natural Product Sciences
• /
• 제22권2호
• /
• pp.134-139
• /
• 2016

Phytochemicals were isolated from leaves of the fiber crop, ramie (Boehmeria nivea, Bn), using open column chromatography and medium pressure liquid chromatography. Their structures were identified as ${\beta}$-sitosterol, (-)-loliolide, rutin, and pyrimidinedione by MS, $^1H$-, and $^{13}C$-NMR spectroscopic analysis. Among them, (-)-loliolide was isolated for the first time from B. nivea. A content analysis of (-)-loliolide in B. nivea collected from different regions and harvest times was conducted by HPLC. The highest content of (-)-loliolide was found in Bn-23 harvested in September. These results will be helpful to use the plant which harvest in September as a high content phytochemical additive in food, health supplements, and medicinal products.

• 한국가정과학회지
• /
• 제3권1호
• /
• pp.51-63
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제52권4호
• /
• pp.170-183
• /
• 2019

제섬(製纖)이란 원료에서 섬유를 갈라내거나 뽑아내는 일로 식물의 섬유질을 추출하는 과정을 일컫는다. 용어의 정의에서 알 수 있듯이 제섬은 식물 재료에 행해지는 1차 재료 가공 기술로 인피 섬유가 발달한 식물에 행해진다. 대표적인 인피식물로는 모시풀(苧麻), 삼(大麻), 아마(亞麻), 닥나무(楮) 등이 있는데 그 중 삼은 재배의 역사가 길고 분포 지역도 광범위하여 인류의 생활과 문화의 재료로서 매우 보편적이고 일반화된 식물이다. 본 연구는 『오주연문장전산고』에 기술되어 있으나 현재 국내에서 전승되고 있지 않은 자연건조쇄경식 제섬 기술을 재현 실험하여 기술의 이행 가능성과 특징을 살펴보고자 하였다. 문헌에 기록된 방식으로 인피를 채취하고 실험한 결과, 실제로 삼 섬유를 얻을 수 있었다. 삼 줄기에서 속대와 껍질을 분리하기 위한 요인은 변색으로 확인할 수 있는 건조의 정도였으며, 완전히 누렇게 변색된 면적에 한해서 속대와 껍질을 분리할 수 있었다. 일조량과 기온은 건조를 보다 가속시키는 조건이었다. 다만 오랜 시간 동안 노출되기만 한다면 일조량과 기온에 상관없이 인피를 채취하기에 적합한 상태가 되는 것으로 확인되었다. 도리깨질의 물리적 힘을 이용하는 자연건조쇄경식은 함경도 육진 지역 제섬 기술의 핵심 공정으로 여겨진다. 삼의 껍질과 속대는 두드릴수록 분리되었고, 인피는 가늘게 쪼개지며 외피는 벗겨져 실로 채취하기에 적합한 상태가 되었다. 물리적인 힘을 가하여 섬유를 채취하는 방식은 섬유에 잔털이 피는 현상을 유발하는 탓에 인피섬유직물인 삼베나 모시제작에서는 일반적으로 지양되었다. 그러나 함경도 육진의 제섬법은 이 원리를 역이용하여 섬세한 직물을 만드는 방식에 적용시킨 것으로 보인다. 이러한 방식은 현재 우리나라 안동 지역에서 확인되는 증열식 피마 제섬법과는 구분되며, 삼을 방적하여 직물을 제작하는 서양의 사례와 유사함을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.45-53
• /
• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 보존과학연구
• /
• 통권34호
• /
• pp.20-29
• /
• 2013

지류, 섬유, 목재와 같은 유기질 문화재는 주요 화학성분으로서 셀룰로오스로 구성되어 있다. 셀룰로오스는 글루코오스가 분자내 또는 분자간 수소결합으로 고분자 결정성 구조를 이루고 있다. 특히 셀룰로오스의 중합도는 종이나 섬유의 강도와 밀접한 관련이 있으며, 종이나 섬유에 있어서 열화의 진행정도나 보존성을 나타내는 지표로써 사용된다. 일반적으로 이러한 셀룰로오스의 분자량을 측정하는 방법으로 TAPPI 표준방법인 CED (cupriethylene diamine)용액을 이용한 점도측정법을 많이 사용하고 있다. 목재 섬유로 제조된 종이의 경우 TAPPI 표준 방법 T230법에 의거하여 셀룰로오스 점도를 측정한다. 그러나 우리나라 종이나 섬유의 주요 원료인 닥나무 인피섬유, 저마, 면 등은 목재 셀룰로오스 섬유에 비해 분자량이 크고 중합도가 높아 현재까지 주로 사용되던 T230법으로는 정확한 점도 측정이 어렵다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 고점도 측정방법인 TAPPI 표준 방법 T254법에 의거하여 저농도 CED 용액으로 섬유 깊숙이 용액을 침투시켜 해리시킨 뒤 고농도의 CED 용액으로 완전히 용해시키는 방법을 이용하여 한지의 점도를 측정하였고, 열화시편에 적용하여 종이와 섬유의 열화에 의한 손상정도를 측정하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.136-148
• /
• 2007

African marigold is a common plant easily available in many flower beds. It has been reported as a practical and prospective resource of dyes since the dyes can be extracted from their bodies as well as petals. In this research, cotton and ramie fabrics which are made from natural cellulose were dyed using the extract of the African Marigold which is a variety of marigold. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants. Dyeability was evaluated by examining and measuring surface color, K/S value, and the changes in the maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. For the dyeing with marigold extract, the color tone did not differ by pre-mordanting and non-mordanting. Reaction with post-mordanting was excellent, which was colored in various yellow series. The best dyeability was achieved in dye solution of pH 6.5-7.0 which is not conditioned. The largest K/S value and color difference were obtained in tin mordanting. The dye uptake was greatly increased in chitosan pre-treated mordanting compared with the post-mordanting without chitosan pre-treatment. Due to its high heat resistance, African Marigold extract is easy for dye extraction and dyeing, and its dyeability is excellent for natural cellulose fibers. Also, colorfastness was proved to be practically usable.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제15권6호
• /
• pp.1053-1062
• /
• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제5권3호
• /
• pp.299-303
• /
• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• 자연과학논문집
• /
• 제10권1호
• /
• pp.81-91
• /
• 1998

아우트-웨어로 많이 사용되는 면, 마, T/C, 모, 면니트의 직물을 이용하여 반복세탁에 따른 수축률, 마모 강도, 인장 강도, 필링, 방추도 등의 물리적 성질 변화에 대해 연구 조사하였다. 또한 모섬유의 경우 각각의 물리적 성질에 있어서 건식 세탁과 습식 세탁에 의한 차이를 비교 검토하였다. 실험결과 반복 세탁에 의해 인장강도는 그다지 변화하지 않았으나 방추도가 크게 저하하였으며 pill의 발생이 크게 증가하였다. 습식 세탁에 의해 면니트는 처짐 현상을 보였고 모의 경우 고온, 고알칼리 하에서의 반복 세탁에 의해 큰 수축현상을 나타냈으며 이러한 수축은 두께의 증가를 가져와 마모 강도를 증가시키는 결과를 가져왔다. 건식 세탁모가 습식 세탁모에 비해 모든 물리적 성질에 있어 훨씬 우수한 것으로 나타났다.