• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.291-297
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• 1989

It was indicated that natural fiber crops Ln Korea have been major crops, such as cotton, flax, ramie and Kenaf. The major varieties andagronomic characterics are summarized as follows. Cotton variety, Mokpo 6 is long fiber length and, is high lint yield, flax variety, Wiera is hiTh amount of dry stem and grains weiTht. On the other hand, kenaf variety, Suweon 2 is high dry fiber weight and fiher ratio.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1194-1205
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• 1999

The hand characteristics of bast blended fabrics are studied by a subective evaluation method. To offer basic data for development of better hand of bast fiber fabrics customer's hand preference surveys are executed as well. IN this study 51 varieties of linen or ramie blended fabrics of various blending ratio density and thickness and Hansan ramie Chinese ramie and a Shingosen fabics of various blending ratio density and thickness and Hansan ramie Chinese ramie and a Shingosen farbic and used. To evaluate the hand of the fabrics subjectively nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 26 items are developed with adjective pairs. A seven ranks' scale is also developed to evaluate hand preferences in blouse and jacket cloths, Through subjective evaluation of bast blended fabrics the 26 items could be classified into seven kinds of hand classification : surface characteristics extensibility/drapability felling of heaviness stiffness resilience moisture property and feeling of density. The cumulative variance value explained by these seven factors is 67.18% According to the results of fabrics' preference by age groups no significant differences are found in blouse cloths but a few significant differences are found among different age groups in jacket clothes. However experts and non-experts show considerable differences on preference It can be concluded that fabrics' preference I more dependent on professionality than on age. In the survey experts. However more drapery cloths are preferred by experts and cloths with drier touch are preferred by non-experts. Experts prefer rougher less even less winding heavier and sparser fabrics but non-experts prefer rougher lighter thinner and stiffer fabrics as jacket cloths.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.243-248
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• 2007

This study is about the fabric attached to the relics excavated from the Shimchun-ri tomb of the 4th century and the Moonsan-ri tombs of the 5th century. We studied 5 pieces of fabric from the Shimchun-ri tomb: one piece was silk and the other four pieces were hemp. We were able to observe 8 pieces from the four tombs in Moonsan-ri, All of them except one ramie were silk. The two kinds of bast fiber found in the tombs of Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri were hemp and ramie, and they were found to be plain woven with S-twist thread which thickness is uneven. The density was more fine compared to the hemps found in the Kaya or Shinra tombs of the similar era. All of the silk textiles found in the Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri tombs used non-twisted thread, and were plain woven. Also, we found degummed and raw silk from the tombs. The average density of the silk textiles from these tombs are similar to other areas of the same time, and studies show that they used non-twisted thread in plain woven silk found in other tombs. Therefore, we can conclude that they usually used non-twisted thread when producing silk textiles.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.235-239
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• 1993

모시풀 재배에 있어서의 적정 시비량을 알고자 휴지재식 초년부터 성원이된 4년째까지 시험조사한 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. 모시풀의 경신장에는 비료 3요소중 질소, 칼리의 증시효과가 컸고, 석회도 경신장에 크게 작용하는 것으로 생각되었다. 2. 기준시비량 $P_2O_5$-$K_2$O=9-3-9kg/10a에 비하여 질소는 2～3배, 칼리는 2배비 시용에서 수량이 증대되었고, 그 중 10a당 질소 18kg, 인산 3kg, 칼리 18kg와 석회 200kg 시용의 경우 가장 유효경 비율도 높았으며 조섬유 수량에서도 33% 증수되었다.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.213-218
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• 1993

모시풀의 생장촉진을 위한 생장조절제의 적정 살포시기, 회수 및 농도를 알아보기 위한 시험결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. 모시풀의 생장점에 Gibberellin을 살포하면 줄기의 신장에 효과가 켰으며 경장 50cm 때의 1회 살포에 비하여 경장 50및 100cm때의 2회, 50, 100 및 150cm 때의 3회로 살포회수가 많을수록 그 신장도가 켰으며 생육초기보다 후기살포가 더욱 효과적이었다. 2. Gibberellin 농도는 50ppm 보다는 100～300ppm액 살포에서 줄기의 신장이 뚜렷하였으며, 이는 절간장의 신장에서 연유되었고, 절수의 증가는 거의 없었다. 3. 어느 농도에서나 1회 살포의 경우는 엽의 생장도 다소 좋아지는 경향이나, 2회, 3회로 살포회수가 많고 농도가 높을수록 오히려 엽의 생장에 저해를 받는듯 하였다. 4. 섬유수량은 Gibberellin 100ppm 3회 살포의 경우 가장 다수였으며 섬유비율에 있어서도 무처리구의 4.6%에 비하여 5.3%로서 가장 높았다. 5. Atonic은 모시풀의 줄기신장 효과가 Gibberellin에 미치지 못하였으며, 생장조절제 처리는 모시풀의 인피섬유의 발달에도 효과가 있는 것으로 생각되었다.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.470-479
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• 1982

Researches on industrial crops in Korea before 1962 were concentrated on fiber crops such as cotton, kenaf, hemp, ramie and flax. Then research works on oil crops, sugar crops and other high income crops were followed. However, no land is shared for the production of kenaf, flax, sugar beet, sweet sorghum and sunflower at present in Korea, while the cultivation of cotton, hemp, ramie and mat rush is decreasing continuously to the marginal point. At present researches are emphasized on oil crops such as seasame, peanut and perilla and high income medicinal herbs of which cultivating acreages are increasing. Numerous varieties were released as a result of active breeding works on industrial crops since 1962, i.e. 3 sesame varieties including "Suweon 21", 3 peanut varieties including "Seoduntangkong", and 6 rape varieties including "Yudal" in oil crops, one cotton variety "Mokpo 7", one hemp variety "MS4-1", and one kenaf variety "Suweon 2" in fiber crops, and two stevia varieties "Suweon 2" and "Suweon II" in sugar crops. Quality improvement of rape seeds and development of hybrid rapes utilizing male sterile lines are the most significant results of breeding works, while the establishment of vinyl mulching cultivation of sesame and peanut are the most successful results in agronomic researches during the last 20 years.re the most successful results in agronomic researches during the last 20 years.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.817-826
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• 2009

As UV radiation to the earth increased over recent years, many adverse effects of UV radiation have been reported. There are needs to develop UV-protective apparel and accessaries to protect skin from these harmful effects. Cellulose is one of the most frequently worn fiber during summer time. However, celllulose shows very low UV-protective property especially in case of thin and low fabric content. In this study, UV-protective cellulose textiles were developed using chiotsan mordanting and green tea dyeing. The repetition effect of chitosan and green tea treatment were focused. Three different cellulose fibers, cotton, linen, and ramie, were used for this study. All chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed fabrics showed increases in UV-protective property. The color of fabrics tended to darker as the numbers of mordanting process and green tea dyeing increased. UV-protective property did not increase significantly upon the repetition of mordanting and green tea dyeing treatment except ramie fabric. UV protective property was persisted upon washfastness test in all three cellulose fiber types.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.263-268
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• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.