• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.1-18
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• 2012

This study explores the clothing behavior of homosexual men for identity creation. Since homosexuality has been viewed in terms of immoral, medical or social problems, gay males have made efforts to construct presentational styles in order to hide or reveal their sexual identities. Kate Schofield and Ruth A. Schmidt found that there were three different layers of individual gay identity construction expressed in clothing: shared gay identity, tribal identity, and situational identity. Using their framework, 630 gay men's outfits found in the U.S drama 'Queer as folk' were analyzed, which dealt with the lives of a group of gay men living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Findings point that gay males use their clothing effectively to express their sexual identity. Firstly, they use certain fashion items as the signifier of homosexuality on a gay community level. They use their clothing to attract the sexual partners. On tribal identity level, diverse and fragmented styles could be shown besides the effeminate style. Homosexual men's clothing can be classified into the following four dominate styles: the drag look, the macho look, the androgynous look and conventional look. Findings also indicate that gay males make different clothing choices for different situations in order to blend into the heterosexual or homosexual society.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2003

Rococo, which is represented as immoderate pleasure and luxurious aristocratism, had required to be liberal and unconventional in art and life, and the hairstyles were also much more fantastic, huge, and splendid than ever. Women's hairstyles in the early 18th century were the relatively simple style of Pompadour style that didn't inflate hairs and combed them backward. Then, as changes in haristyles began to appear in around 1760, the styles became gradually higher and huger, and very queer styles also appeared. In the 1780s, they ornamented these hairdos by using various things. This can be considered as women's behaviors that showed off their status and wealth instead of their husbands. Although men's hairstyles were not as huge and decorative as women's, wigs were worn frequently. Wigs became smaller and simpler than those in 17C, and while wearing them, they made wigs whitened by spraying hair-powders enough not to recognize their ages. Several names such as Pig tail, Ramilleis, Bag wig, Brigadiere, and so on existed, according to the way to tie the wigs. Somewhat exaggerated men's hairstyles were shown by Macaronis in 1780s. However, this can be regarded to reflect the situation of the age.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.299-305
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• 2018

Near / Miss, Charles Bernstein's poetry collection, is replete with poems of distinctive styles and pluralistic forms in his idiosyncratic and artistic cosmos. With poetic antics, queerness, sarcasm, irony, and humor, the book showcases the motif of loss, chaos and trauma in postmodern America and the world. The multiplicity and multi-dimensional $M{\ddot{o}}bius$ effect in Near / Miss echo earlier Bernstein's poems, as well as poems by ancient and contemporary poets, with visual artists and musicians, and rabbis and Jewish philosophers. I argue that Near / Miss offers an apotheosis of echopoetics, which has been launched in his previous book Pitch of Poetry. Poems in the book reveal the dark and thick "pitch," namely the queer, the uncanny, the invisible, the disabled, the dispossessed, and the silenced poetic Other and make it explicit. The estrangement and alienation of $clich{\acute{e}}$ through diverse malaprops, mondegreens, non-sequiturs and fragmentations in Near / Miss aim at deconstructing the fixation of language so as to display the poetic Other. The motif of "nothingness" in echopoetics significantly multiplies its meanings. Nothingness mainly refers to the loss of origin, the defiance of tyranny, and the sublimity of the universe and the poetic Other. Melding his personal loss and misfortune, the current political discontent and the postmodern chaos in America and the world, nothingness in echopoetics resonates with American literary tradition and Zen with a healing and transforming power.