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A Study of Costume Types and background of Occurence in the Era of Renaissance (르네상수시대의 복식 유형과 그발생배경에 관한연구)

  • 이순홍
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.30
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    • pp.275-294
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    • 1996
  • In fashion there was a move away from the ascetic of the Gothic according to the appear-ance of a new spirit at the beginning of the fourteenth centuries initially in Italy. The new spirit Humanism applied their interest not to the universal but to the individual and particular. The Renaissace costume style based on the Humanism was sharp angled and curvy and had a grotesque silhouette with the exaggerated and tense decorations. The purpose of this study is researching the background led to the balanced costume style characterized by unique details. out of the tastte for luxury and beauty grew a new style known as slashing in which seams were left open and colored linigs thrust through or cuts were made in an entire cos-tume and contrasting material puffed out of the cuts. With the slashes another element was characterized in the high Renaissance cos-tume style that was the use of points or lace to hold a costume together. For the masculint costumes pads became into a fashion and were used for forming the antinatural artificial and bulky silhouettes. The body was distorted and tensed by putting the pads into the sleeves and bodice. The jacket with a full rounded bodice like a bow known as peascod belly and haut de chausses a onion-shaped trunk hose with a codipiece ap-peared and grew one of the most characteristic of Renaissance style. According to these sociological changes the view of the beauty based on the human body and in both of men and women the costume style was changed very much to emphasixed their physical beauty and finally it grew a grotesque style and even more a exposed style that exposed a part of their body. Those backgrounds as were stated above can be said to lead to the appearance of the grotesque style in the Renaissance Age.

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A Study on the Women′s Underwear in the Later Chosun Dynasty (조선후기 여자속옷에 관한 연구)

  • Yoon Hyun-Jin;Cho Woo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.169-183
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    • 2004
  • This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

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Changes in Solid Elution Rate and Benzo[${\alpha}$]pyrene During Puffing Temperature of Herbal Tea Containing Angelica gigas, Paeoniae radix, Cnidium officinale, Saururus chinensis, Artemisia capillarisin and Zizyphus vulgaris (당귀, 작약, 천궁, 삼백초, 인진쑥 및 산조인을 첨가한 한방차의 팽화 온도별 고형분 용출율과 Benzo[${\alpha}$]pyrene의 변화)

  • Jang, Jae-Seon;Choi, Mi-Yong;Oh, Sung-Cheon
    • Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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    • v.31 no.2
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    • pp.305-312
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    • 2014
  • The following study is the result of herbal teas puffed at different temperatures between $140{\sim}220^{\circ}C$. There was change of single breadth that some carbonization occurs according to rise of processing temperature and crude ash content rises relatively, and crude protein and crude fat content had hardly changed and moisture content decreased. The solid elution rate of the herbal teas appeared by 0.18~0.27% (w/w), it increased as puffing temperature rises. The reason for the increase in solid elution rates is due to the breakage of cross bridges between the raw materials in the herbal tea which are carbohydrates, proteins, lipids and etc. after treatments of physical changes rather than chemical ones. Benzopyrene content happened difference in B(${\alpha}$)P content according to processing temperature, raw material by 0.18~0.24 ppbs.

Application of Super Water Absorbent for Edible Mushroom Production (식용버섯 재배시 초고흡수성 폴리머의 효과)

  • Kim, Myung-Kon;Yoon, Sook;Mun, Sung-Pil;Kim, Hyung-Moo;Chang, Tae-Bok;Hong, Jae-Sik
    • The Korean Journal of Mycology
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    • v.28 no.1
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    • pp.16-21
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    • 2000
  • Super water absorbent (CPAM-AS-hyd-1) was prepared by polymerization of acrylamide and allyl sulfonate salt with N,N'-methylene-bis-acrylamide as crosslinking agent, followed by alkaline hydrolysis and the effect on mycelial growth and sporophore production of edible mushrooms in the artificial cultivation was examined. The mycelial growth of edible mushrooms did not depend on the addition of super water absorbent upto 200 g of hydrated polymer gel per 100 cc medium. The proper hydrated polymer gel concentration for sporophore production of Pleurotus sajor-caju and Hericium erinaceus were 200 g and $200{\sim}250\;g$ per 100 cc medium, respectively. The proper hydrated polymer gel and puffed rice hull concentration for sporophore production of Flammulina velutipes was 200 g per 100 mm medium and 10% (v/v), respectively.

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Quality Characteristics of Yukwa Added with Various Sugar Alcohols (당알코올 첨가 유과의 품질 특성)

  • Lee, Mi Hye;Oh, Myung Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.29 no.5
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    • pp.428-436
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    • 2014
  • This study was conducted to investigate the use of sugar alcohols (sorbitol, erythritol, and xylitol) as alternative sweeteners for replacing sucrose in Yukwa (traditional Korean oil-puffed rice snack). The moisture contents of Bandegi (dried Yukwa dough) and Yukwa containing sugar alcohols were higher than that of control (containing only sucrose). The microstructures of control and Bandegi containing sugar alcohols showed uniformly and finely distributed air holes. Expansion ratio and oil absorption of Yukwa containing sorbitol and 30% erythritol were higher than those of control. Appearance and cross section of control and Yukwa containing sorbitol, 30% erythritol, and 30% xylitol showed a good shape. The lightness (L) of control was significantly lower than Yukwa containing sugar alcohols, whereas redness (a) and yellowness (b) were higher than those in Yukwa containing sugar alcohols. Hardness of Yukwa containing sugar alcohols was significantly lower than that of control, and that of Yukwa containing sorbitol was the lowest. Peak number of Yukwa containing sugar alcohols was significantly lower than that of control, and that of Yukwa containing 60% erythritol and 60% xylitol was the lowest among all samples. In the sensory evaluation, color of control was deepest, whereas that of Yukwa containing 60% xylitol was lightest. Volume and air hole uniformity of Yukwa containing 60% erythritol and 60% xylitol were inferior than those of other samples. Sweetness of Yukwa containing sugar alcohols was lower than that of control, whereas oily flavor was stronger. Hardness of Yukwa containing sugar alcohols was lower than that of control, and Yukwa containing xylitol showed the lowest hardness among the samples. Crispness of Yukwa containing sugar alcohols was lower than that of control. There were no significant differences in overall acceptability between control and Yukwa containing 30% sorbitol and 30% erythritol. Overall, sorbitol and erythritol were appropriate as a 30% replacement for sucrose when preparing Yukwa.

Analysis of Traditional Process for Yukwa Making, a Korean Puffed Rice Snack(II) Pelleting, Drying, Conditioning and Additives (전통 유과가공공정의 분석(II): 반데기성형, 건조, 수분조절 및 부재료의 첨가)

  • Kang, Sun-Hee;Ryu, Gi-Hyung
    • Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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    • v.34 no.5
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    • pp.818-823
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    • 2002
  • Effects of pelleting, drying, conditioning, and additives on the characteristics of Yukwa (fried pellet) were determined. RVA maximum paste viscosity of Bandegi (waxy rice pellet) was the highest after 2 days of moisture conditioning process, and decreased 2 days later. Air bubbles in Bandegi were distributed uniformly but were not significantly affected by conditioning time. For higher expansion and softer texture of Yukwa, the optimum moisture content of dried and conditioned Bandegi was $14{\sim}17%$. The addition of soymilk and 25% alcohol (Soju) as additives was also effective for achieving higher expansion and soft texture of Yukwa, respectively. Larger air cells were distributed in the center and smaller ones on the edge of Yukwa.

A Study on the Men's Image Following the Change in Their Hair Style the 17th Century - Focusing on Hair and Beard Style - (17세기 남성헤어스타일 변화에 따른 남성이미지 연구 - 머리와 수염스타일을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Kung-Hee;Moon, Yeun-Kyung;Kim, Seo-Young
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.205-220
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    • 2007
  • In the 17th century, men's hair style showed a dramatical change to thick hair style with femineity. During the 17th century, men wore their hair longer than at any other time in the history of western culture. Men's hairs in the early 17th century were defined as short hair style influenced by ruff collar of renaissance and thick beards and moustaches During the mid 17th century, shoulder-length hair style was predominant over all classes. As hair style became long, beards and moustaches gradually declined in favour: from 1625, small neat beards, and moustaches turned up at the ends, got progressively smaller, and by 1650 the beard was only small tuft on the chin, disappearing completely by 1680. In the late 17th century, very long, thick and shiny hair got a great popularity with the gorgeous and decorative baroque costume dominated over the entire Europe. The habit of adding false hair when natural hair was deficient led to the introduction of the periwig, which became an essential part of a fashionable man's attire. Wiggery were widely used to express curled and puffed hairs more exaggerated. As the long hair style with wiggery became popular, various style of beard and moustache got smallar so that they were ended up in entire disappearance in the end of the 17th century.

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Quality Characteristics of Distilled Soju with Different Pretreatment of Rice (쌀 전처리를 달리한 증류주의 품질특성)

  • Seung Eun, Lee;Ji-Eun, Kang;Bora, Lim;Heui-Yun, Kang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.37 no.6
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    • pp.555-563
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study was to confirm the quality characteristics of distilled soju with different rice pretreatment processes. The non-steamed fermentation method is a technology that uses starch to produce saccharification and alcohol without going through the steaming of raw materials. It has advantages such as reduction of manpower and cost, prevention of nutrient loss, and minimization of waste water. In this study, rice used were non-steamed and pulverized 'Baromi2', nonsteamed and steamed 'Samgwang', and puffed rice. As the fermenting agent, koji, modified nuruk, N9 yeast, and purified enzyme were used, and lactic acid was added to prevent contamination during fermentation. The amount of water was 300% in total, and after the first watering, 5 days after fermentation, the second watering was carried out. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the non-steamed fermentation method using 'Baromi' was superior to the existing fermentation method in terms of temperature during fermentation, final alcohol content, soluble solids, and pH. By expanding the stability of the production technology of non-steamed fermentation technology, product quality improvement can be expected.

Quantitative Changes of Hydroxycinnamic Acid Derivatives and Anthocyanin in Corn (Zea mays L.) According to Cultivars and Heat Processes (옥수수의 품종별 및 가공별 Hydroxycinnamic Acid 유도체 및 Anthocyanin 색소의 함량 변화)

  • Yu, Myeong-Hwa;Kim, Eun-Ok;Choi, Sang-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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    • v.39 no.6
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    • pp.843-852
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    • 2010
  • Hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (HADs) and anthocyanins in corn (Zea mays L.) have recently been reported to have anticarcinogenic, anti-hypertensive, antidiabetic, antifungal, antioxidant, and anti-melanogenic activities. Five HADs and anthocyanins in corn were quantified by HPLC according to cultivars and heat processes. In addition, major anthocyanin of a black waxy corn was isolated and identified by several instrumental analysis, and its content was also quantified by HPLC according to heat processes. Of the ten corn cultivars, five waxy corn cultivars had moderate five HADs contents except "Baksa" waxy corn with higher two free cinnamic acids (FCAs), p-coumaric and ferulic acids. In contrast, three dent corn cultivars contained higher levels of three polyamine conjugates (PCs), CFP, DCP and DFP, and especially "P3394" had the highest amount of the three PCs. Two sweet corn cultivars had generally intermediate HADs levels between waxy and dent corn cultivars. Of the three colored-waxy corns, a black Mibaek waxy corn had the highest anthocyanin content. During heat processes, levels of two FCAs in the black waxy corn generally increased, whereas no significant change on three PCs contents was observed except the puffing process. Roasting, retort and puffing processes significantly increased two FCAs and especially, the puffed black waxy corn had the highest amount of FCAs. Meanwhile, most heat treatments except retort process, considerably decreased total anthocyanin contents, and especially the puffed black waxy corn had nearly no anthocyanin. Level of one major anthocyanin, pelargonidin 3-glucoside (P3G) isolated from a black waxy corn was appreciably decreased by heat treatments except retort process, which greatly increased P3G content. These results suggest that the retorted black waxy corn may be a promising high quality functional corn product.

Antidiabetic Effect of Korean Red Ginseng by Puffing Process in Streptozotocin-Induced Diabetic Rats (Streptozotocin 유발 당뇨쥐에서 팽화가공 처리한 홍삼의 항당뇨 효과)

  • Kim, Shin-Hee;Kang, Ju-Seop;Lee, Sang-Jun;Chung, Young-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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    • v.37 no.6
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    • pp.701-707
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    • 2008
  • Antidiabetic effect of Korean red ginseng (RG) processed by puffing in streptozotocin (STZ)-induced diabetic (DM) rats was investigated. Five week-old SD rats were divided into four groups; normal control (NC) group, DM group, red ginseng (RG) group and puffed red ginseng (PG) group. The RG and PG groups were orally provided with RG or PG dissolved in water (500 mg/kg) respectively for seven weeks after single injection of STZ (50 mg/kg, i.v.) followed by identification of DM. NC group received saline vehicle instead of STZ. At the end of feeding of RG or PG, the changes of fasting blood glucose, serum insulin and amylase level and serum lipid profiles were evaluated. Also, oral glucose tolerance test (OGTT), comet assay and histopathological examination were performed. At 7th week, the fasting blood glucose levels of the RG and PG groups were reduced compared to the DM group by 11.54% and 20.22%, respectively. The result of OGTT did not show significant differences among DM and two red ginseng groups. While serum insulin and TG levels were predominantly improved in PG group (p<0.05), serum amylase level was increased in RG group. Alkaline comet assay for checking the oxidative damage of DNA showed that TL (tail length, ${\mu}m$) and TM (tail moment) in the blood lymphocyte of PG group significantly decreased in contrast with DM group. Histopathological results of pancreas showed that destruction of exocrine as well as endocrine might be cured by the administration of RG and PG. These results suggest that PG could exert more protection against STZ-induced toxicity than RG group.