• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.111-126
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• 2008

This article aims to discover the current status and appropriate way to research Gyubang craft, expecting its development and preservation, and elevating it to Korea's unique artistic textile culture. It also searches improved methods for Gyubang craft as the following: First, in order to avoid confusions about Gyubang craft, appropriate concepts and definitions of Gyubang craft must be settled through a discussion among experts. Second, by activating economic activities at lower ratio, among purposes of Gyubang craft, achievements must be elevated. Third, in order to settle down the difficulties of Gyubang craft, a variety of methods such as effective sewing machines and manufacturing techniques as well as providing materials at a reasonable price, considering practical ways through diversifying products, elevating the economy of crafts, exploring sales routes, improving educational contents, and expanding educational places must be facilitated. Fourth, for nurturing talented and excellent human resources in the area of Gyubang craft, the followings should be considered: diversifying contents of education, developing textbooks, improving instructors' quality, providing reasonable cost of education, educating on the utilization and application of Gyubang craft, introducing efficient teaching methods through textbooks and multimedia, awarding 'certificates' to trainees, and permitting certificate holders' to instruct Gyubang craft. Finally, it is convinced that the achievement of production, pride of preserving tradition, pleasure of procedural work, economic activities as experts, and sales of products will be reinforced, and the population for Gyubang craft is also expected to increase. By elevating Gyubang craft into Korea's traditional textile art, Korea's global competitiveness in the area of textile should be strengthened.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.781-790
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• 2012

In midst of growing interest and awareness towards sustainability and being "green", there has been increased demand for sustainable clothing. In the purpose of boosting eco-friendly textiles industry, this research was conducted by investigating environmentally-conscious clothing behavior of university students and assessing their views on eco-friendliness of fibers. Thus, their awareness on recycled polyester fiber was evaluated. The research was conducted by surveying 257 university students residing in Daejeon. The data were analyzed with descriptive statistics, factor analysis, and reliability analysis, using SPSS 19.0. The results were as follows. 1) The majority of the subjects answered "Disposing clothing in the clothing recycling container" to reduce environmental impact. 2) Six factors of eco-friendliness of fiber were extracted as reutilization, unfinishedness, economics, environment preservation, natural materials, and slow fashion by using factor analysis. 3) Subjects scored organic cotton as most eco-friendly among various fibers. Recycled polyester fiber was graded less sustainable than natural fiber, but more eco-friendly than artificial one. 4) In assessment of subject's awareness of recycled polyester fiber, they highly valued on resource-reutilization and economics, but less valued on its hygiene, thermal insulation and health-functionality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.802-812
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate effects of natural incense on the preservation of paper- and textile-based remains and the kinds and applications of natural anti-insect incense by reviewing relevant literatures of the ancient times. There are few ancient literatures of incense published in Korea. The researcher deducted how incense was used in this nation through reviewing verses contained in ancient literatures and medical books. In contrast, the kinds and applications of anti-insect incense used in China, where incense culture prospered, were investigated here through reviewing technical books about incense published during the Song(宋) and Ming(明) periods, $\ll$Incense record(香譜)$\gg$, $\ll$Chen's Incense record(陳氏香譜)$\gg$ and $\ll$Incense record(香乘)$\gg$. There were several methods of keeping clothes better from insects. In relation, how to use anti-insect incense varied in accordance with main materials of clothes, paper, textile, leather and others. Cymbopogon dstans(芸香), Brassica rapu var and Incarvillea sinensis(角蒿) are anti-insect incense which were used for paper. Anti-insect incense for textiles is classified into single and mixed incenses depending on whether only one kind of incense was used or more than seven kinds of the substance. Acori rhizoma(菖蒲), Capsella bursa-pastoris(薺菜花), Lactuca sativa L., Erigeron canadensis(莽草), Stemona japonica(百部) and Moschus sifanicus(麝香) are single anti-insect incense which were used for textile. While, the latter was called. ‘Yi Xiang(衣香)’ is mixed anti-insect incense which was used for textile. Artemisia asiatica(艾葉) and Zanthoxylum schinifolium(花椒) are anti-insect incense which were used for leather. Angelica dahurica(芳香) and Bamboo are anti-insect incense which were used for others. There were three main methods of using incense to prevent insects, that is, diffusing incense's strong scent and ingredients, exposing to smokes from burnt incense and washing with incense-boiled water. Diffusing incenses had a strong scent and antibiotic ingredients, which were put between books or clothes or into a storage box without being processed. If necessary, however, they were processed into rough powders that were in turn used singly, or otherwise mixed for a stronger scent and better insect elimination. Exposing to smokes from burnt incense was done as follows. A clothes was put on 'Long(籠)' underneath which there was a boiling water. The clothes was humidified by the water and then exposed to smokes from burnt incense. 'Long(籠)' had been long used since it was manufactured in the QinHan(秦漢) period for the first time. A local literature, $\ll$Koryo TuGing(高麗圖經)$\gg$ shows that in the Koryo(高麗) period, BoShaLu(博山爐) were used as a means of exposing clothes to smokes to prevent moths, similarly to China. Washing clothes with incense-boiled water was more effective in removing lots of worms and germs from clothes, but leaving the scent and ingredients of the used incense and maintaining the effect of anti-insect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.232-246
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• 2008

The museum starts from drawing many visitors by opening remarkable exhibitions, and finally aims to realize the social and educational value. However artifacts on exhibition have antithetic conditions like limitation of collection, problems of preservation, etc. Already the museum exhibited paintings and fine arts reproduced with complete fidelity, so artistic artifacts have meet the aims of exhibition. we would like to make an alternative proposal about costume relics in this way. Costume relics need to reproduce in two ways. The one way is to reproduce with complete fidelity and the other way is to restore the original form. The reproduction and restoration need a concrete survey, historical research, textile like artifacts. Furthermore it is important to reconstruct breakage and discoloration. Permanent exhibition consisted of reproductions helps appreciating as well as protecting artifacts, so exhibition effect will be enhanced.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.573-585
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• 2021

This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name "Danju," a label of synthetic resin which reads "Daegu citizen's tailor's shop," and buttons engraved with "PUSAN SIN-HUNG." According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-30
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• 2023

Traditional Kurdish weavings are among the world's most ancient living textile traditions. One of the largest regional ethnic and linguistic groups, Kurds have inhabited a significant part of Western Asia for millennia. Historically, Kurdish territories were crisscrossed by old and important trade routes, including the Silk Roads. This led to the formation of some of the most significant Kurdish artistic and cultural traditions, including textiles, which influenced and were influenced by those of other non-Kurdish ethnic groups from Caucasia to Central Asia and beyond. One example of Kurdish carpet traditions born in the eighteenth century at the cross-sections of Safavid (1501-1736) urban carpets workshops and centuries-old indigenous Kurdish tribal/rural weaves is senneh gelim or sojaee. A finely flatwoven carpet that was exchanged regionally and internationally as a diplomatic gift and a highly prized commodity. Although in decline, senneh gelims continue to be made by Kurdish women weavers in their original birthplace Sanandaj, the provincial capital of Iranian Kurdistan to date. This study adopts an inter-disciplinary approach to present an image of senneh gelim and women gelim weavers, tracing the developmental trajectories of the craft from the eighteenth century to the present time by drawing on extant art-historical and social scientific studies along with primary ethnographic data collected in Iranian Kurdistan (2018-2019). It investigates the craft tradition's historical origin, various aspects such as techniques, materials, aesthetics, functions, and meanings, and how these transformed over time. Additionally, the paper looks at the social contexts of production, focusing on women carpet weavers and how their socioeconomic and cultural situation has formed senneh carpet production in the past and present and the implications for long-term preservation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.39-47
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• 2008

Korean embroidery is the long historical industrial arts of real life and has handed down Korean sentiment up to now. Korean traditional embroidered pattern is designed to wish someone's health and luck, who uses the embroidery on the clothes and the goods in real life. Especially, the ten longevity symbols' design is represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, cloud, water, crane, rock, turtle, pine tree, the elixir of life and deer; these 10 symbols show how ancient Korean believe and wish perpetual youth. However, fiber material used embroidery relic has difficulty in preserving for long period compared to other relic descended from historical events for long time and their preserved state isn't so good owing to have been used directly in the real life. Therefore, it is essentially embossed to preserve the embroidery relic and pattern, and make DB for the data. With preservation of the pictures about the handicraft, it's necessary to preserve embroidery technique and make DB through digital imagination. Through the process, we can apply Korean embroidery image to cul-duct package and digital image related field, and it will be helpful to make the tradition popular. In this study, through the research for the embroidery technique applied pattern on the embroidery relic of ten longevity symbols, we'll establish the cultural identification of Korean embroidery image and then develop a worldwide Korean image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.14-22
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated costume representing fundamental "Conservation and Restoration". It's not a report of a specific case, but it is a guideline that contains the costume and textile of museum collection. It is not research based on experiments; however, this paper is basically consists of various reported-documents. Followings are the conclusions of this study 1. These are the factors that we have to know to prevent the causes of fabric's degradation. -Light, -Humidity and temperature, -Microscopic organism, -Insect and rodent animal, -Air pollution, -Ph, -Handling 2. Basic principles of conservation and restoration follows are: -Select the Reversible method, -Represent the easily distinguishable repaired place, -Should be acted by an expert or people with experience, -Before the restoration, accurate and specified records should be completed, -Procedure, treatment method, and materials used should be recorded prior to restoration, -Should be cared minimally, -Be cautious when using the conservation materials, -When caring, make sure nothing is against the principle of aesthetic, historic, and form of preservation 3. The types of restoration are type of straight or curve, type of hole, type of without warp or weft, type of special part damage something like sleeve, collar, type of form that is severely damaged, and type of separated pieces. 4. The method of restoration is sewing, stitching, and the combination of sewing and stitching. 5. The restoration seams are welt seam, plain seam, flat felled seam, french seam etc. And there are kinds of used-sewing, such as, broad stitching, backstitch, half backstitch, basking, hemming, saddle stitching etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.109-120
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• 1997

The conservation of collections in muse-ums is an important aspect for our her-itage. The control of museum environment is a vital factor in the preservation of cool-lections. Inappropriate or fluctuating envi-ronmental conditions can cause irreparable damage to works of arts. In this research we investigated the ac-tual conditions of museum environment for old testiles using questionnaire and mea-sured dye fasing of old textiles on exhibi-tion for 2 months in a university museum the major results are as follows: 1. The control of temperature and rela-tive humidity is a vital factors I the preservation of old textiles in museum generally acceptable temperature and rel-ative humidity standards for old textiles are 18-23$^{\circ}C$ and 50-65% R. H and light level for textiles on exhibition should be limited to 30-50 lux. 2, In university museums the limate control system in exhibition and storage area is in an early stage. Therefore to minimize the deterioration of old textiles the best method of controlling the envi-ronment is to have centralized climate control system in sorage area as well as in display area. 3. Conservator is needed to maintain collections scientifically. Only professional conservator by combining scientific tech-nical and artistic training has the exper-tise needed to maintain the physical in-tegrity of old textiles. In order to solve the inferior environment of museums the staff should recognize the importance of the condition of exhibition and storage. 4. Old textiles are susceptible to damage by light and associated heat. Dyed textiles which have been exhibited under the light without any UV filter were faded notice-ably within two months of exhibition. Light levels for textiles on exhibition should be limited to 30-50 lux. It is de-sirable to use special light source that can absorb UV. and UV filter is also recom-mended to reduce photodegradation of old textiles.