• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.476-480
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• 2006

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was analyzed. It was dyed in silk fabric according to various dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The maximum absorbance of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was at 521 nm. The dyeaffinities were increased gradually as were increased dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hues of mordanted silk fabrics were RP, P, PB, BG where as non mordanted silk fabric was R. Lightfastness was the best at pre-Sn mordanted and the worst at Post-Al mordanted. Washing and perspiration fastnesses were improved on pre and post-Sn mordanted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.145-152
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• 2006

Dyeing properties of sargent cherry of Prunus sargentii Rehder were investigated with silk fabrics. The absorbed wave lengths at UV-VIS spectrometer were 362nm, 386nm, 430nm, and 512nm. The K/S value showed high in following conditions: 100%(w/w) stock solution, 60 minutes of dyeing time, 80$^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, and 5 times of dyeing repetition. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordant than in pre-mordant, and the change of color did not appear in pre-mordant samples. They were colored greenish yellow in post-mordanted Cu and Fe. The highest dyeability and $\Delta$E showed in post-mordanted Fe. The light fastness showed 3-4 in post-mordanted Fe, 1-2 in pre-mordanted Al, and washing and perspiration fastnesses showed also good results in post-mordanted Fe.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

This study was carried out on the process of natural dye substances which can flock ultraviolet rays without producing harmful substances by pollution, germs, etc. While making human body safe in contact, extracting Gardenia, Sappan wood, Radix scutellariae, Cromwell, Mugwort, Gallnut, Lac. Those are used for curing diseases, dyeing silk cloth with those extracts, and examining the color fastness, Ultraviolet protection. From this study, the following conclusion was produced. Brightness was lower in pre-mordanting than in post. And color difference showed that Radix scutellariae was the highest. Aluminum-mordanting showed a higher color difference than Fe. Colorfastness to washing was high in all samples, and the degree of color-changing by washing was the highest in the sample dyed by gardenia, pre-mordanted gallnut showed the highest degree. Colorfastness to perspiration was the highest in gardenia. UV-A test showed that all samples a high rate of 85% or higher compared with test white cloth. Especially, post-mordanted radix scutellariae, pre-mordanted gallnut and post-mordanted sappanwood showed a superior blocking rate.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.983-989
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify mordant effects of Chestnut hulls. The color of post and pre-mordanted fabrics were measured in terms of H, V, C, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and K/S values. In addition, color fastness and antimicrobial activity were evaluated. The pre-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls for cotton, mercerized cotton and silk was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 70% (o.w.f.), respectively. Post-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls of mercerized cotton, silk and cotton was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 90% (o.w.f.), respectively. The hue of fabrics was influenced by mordant methods, such as pre-mordant and post-mordant, slightly. Wet cleaning fastness of pre-mordanted cotton and mercerized cotton fabrics was higher than that of post-mordanted fabrics. The wet cleaning fastness of silk fabrics was not affected by the mordant method, and their fastness were proved to be excellent. The dry cleaning fastness of post-mordanted cotton fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted cotton fabrics. The dry cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton and silk was proved to be excellent regardless of mordant methods. The antimicrobial activity of Oenothera odorata jacquin dyed fabrics and Chestnut hulls mordanted fabrics was proved to 99.9%, and their excellent antimicrobial activity remained after wet and dry cleaning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.256-265
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.121-132
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• 1996

This study showed the proper pigment extract in the Phe. Dyeing which is the basic dye of the natural plants dyeing,. Also it compared and examined the K/S the promotion of the color fastness and the effect of color difference change were attended by mordants and method of mordanting. 1. The most absorbance of Phellodendron. sol-ution is 330nm berberine is 430nm. 2. The best and proper temperature to extrat Phe,. was 80 and dyeing solution for 24 hours. 3. The pH effect was stable in the absorbances and color differences change. 4. Mordanted group increased the absorbances compared to non-mordanted sample. In case depth the most absorbance of Al. Sn. K. Cu and C. A solution were in 3% Fe and Cr were in 5%. In the color difference change they became dark reduced greenish and increased yellowish when their absorbances were in 3% 5. K./S was recoginzed by tainnin and fe, K/S was more increased pre-mordants than post-mordants. 6. Fe is the unchangable mordant in the color difference change and pre-mordants is more stable than post-mordants in the difference color. 7. Generally light C. F indicated more than grade 2 and light C. F, was much improved in post-mordanted by alumium potassium potass-ium dichromate. Washing C.F was improved in mordanted by tainnin and ferrous suulfate mordanted group was better than non-mordanted sample. Perspir-ation C,F was more stable in acid than alkali. Dry cleaning C.F indicated more than grade. 4.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.33-41
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• 1997

This paper surveys the extraction condition of polygenetic natural dye, Sappan Wood and the effect of ash to the dyeability and fastness. The appropriate time for extracting Sappon Wood was 1hour. The pH was increased as the amount of ash increase. The pH was nearly invariable according to the time of ash solution, the extracting times and temperature. Absorbance of dyeing fabrics was about 480nm. From the result of K/S value determination of fabrics, 10g/$\ell$ quantity of ash was surfficient for treatment and the amount of Sappon Wood was in 100% o.w.f.. K/S value of fabrics pre-mordanted or post-mordanted were higher than that of fabrics simultaneous mordanted.K/S value was increased as pH of mordanting bath decrease and pre-mordanting and post-mordanting fabrics increased the amount of absorption (K/S value) compared with non-mordanted fabrics. It was found that pH of mordanting bath affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed fabrics. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the mordanting conditions and methods.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.779-783
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• 2008

The main colorant of Morus alba L. fruit is anthocyanin which is a kind of flavonoid group. In this article, the dyeing properties of colorant extracted from Morus alba L. fruit were investigated on some silk fabrics. The results were as follows: The maximum absorbance of Morus alba L. fruit showed at 284 nm, and 516 nm by UV-VIS spectrophotometer. The dye adsorption increased according as dye concentration. The optimal dyeing temperature was $60^{\circ}C$ and the dye equilibrium was reached 40 minutes after dyeing. The highest K/S value of the colorant obtained at bath ratio 40:1. The effect of pH of dye solution showed higher K/S value at acidic than alkaline condition. Almost Mordants except pre-Fe and Sn did not significantly increased dye adsorption. The pre mordanted silk fabrics showed RP, P, and post mordanted ones showed PB, GY. The color fastnesses to light, washing, and perspiration were modified at pre-Sn mordanted samples.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.83-100
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• 2003

It has been known that the chitosan pre-treated fabrics can be dyed without the aid of mordanting process. It is due to the fact that chitosan treatment increases the dye uptake. However, the effect of chitosan on the dyeing mechanism has not been elucidated thus far. Following explanations have been presented regrading the action of the chitosan on the dyeing mechanisms: 1. Chitosan absorbs dyestuffs and facilitates dyeing since the chitosan itself has a good affinity toward dyestuffs. 2. Chitosan acts as a metallic mordant between the fiber molecule and dyestuff. 3. Fiber molecules and chitosan form a coordinate covalent bond. This study aims the quantitative investigation on the effect of the chitosan and the effect of sequence of the mordanting, pre-mordanting or post-mordanting, on the dyeing of the fabrics. Cotton fabrics and acylic fabrics were pre-treated with chitosan before dyeing with cochineal dyestuffs. Method 1: Fabrics were, firstly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; mordanted fabrics were, secondly, treated with chitosan; mordanted and chitosan-treated fabrics were, thirdly, dyed. Method 2: Fabrics were, firstly, treated with chitosan; chitosan-treated fabrics were, secondly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; these were dyed then. Method 2 gave distinguished specific color development with darker shade. Apart from this, chitosan-treated fabrics yielded darker shade compared to the pre-mordanted fabrics without chitosan-treatment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.771-778
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• 2008

The natural dyeing of cotton fabric with Perilla frutescens var. acuta extract was investigated. The proper extraction temperature and time were $100^{\circ}C$ and 120 minutes. The proper temperature, time and colorant powder concentration for the dyeing of cotton fabric with Perilla frutescens var. acuta powder were $90^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and 15%(o.w.b.), respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of simultaneous-mordanted methods were higher than those of pre-and post-mordanted methods. And the Cu-and Fe mordant showed higher K/S values than those of other mordants. Light colorfasness of mordanted cotton fabric was poor, but the other colorfasnesses were shown to be good. The cotton fabric mordanted with Cu mordant was showed effective bacterial reduction.