• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.117-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.7
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.617-625
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• 2016

In women's clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers' bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women's clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.