• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.585-593
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• 2005

Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.156-160
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• 2006

Poststructuralism gives us a clue to totally understand fashion design, which is in danger of difficulty and frivolous ambiguity caused by indiscreet creating and groundless interpretation of Postmodernism. In addition, it leads us to have a new viewpoint, which is freed from stereotyped past concepts and constraints, with regard to fashion design. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, present study employs a two-way research method: analysis of theories and analysis of contents. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design. In analysis of contents, 10 fashion designers are chosen who exhibit new works at every Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter collection. Including 20 works that those designers displayed at Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter from spring/summer 2001 through autumn/winter 2004-2005, a total of 200 works are analyzed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.100-113
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• 2011

The earlier notion of feminism regarding gender equality was changed into that of Postfeminism because of gender differences. The idea of Postfeminism has been present since the 1980s but has been influenced by modern culture theories such as Postmodernism, Poststructuralism, Theory of Power and Discourse and Psychoanalysis. Various features of Postfeminism are found in the medieval warrior images of contemporary fashion. Warrior costumes were men's exclusive property in the medieval ages, but as it is introduced as women's wear in the 21st century, it shows us new fashion images which are constructed by gender deconstruction, differences and pastiche. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to examine a key characteristic of Postfeminism fashion. An article described the historical costumes of medieval warriors and refocused on the development processes of feminism and then conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and Postfeminism tendencies in contemporary women's wear from 2000 to 2011. The results were that materials such as metallic and flexible materials, monotonic and red colors and detailed patterns of armor were used to display forms of exaggeration and restraint. These elements fully and correctly expressed the image of a medieval warrior woman in contemporary fashion. Postfeminism fashion is constructed with feminine power, gendered identity, sensual elegance and a postmodern body. Postfeminism is the contemporary cultural icon and is continuously influencing modern fashion design in the 21st century in a positive and powerful way.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.150-160
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to introduce the new regional geography approaches that have been lively discussed in English speaking countries since 1980s. The discussion of the new regional geography is based on intellectual interchange between geographers and social theorists. The new regional geographers regard a space as a more active thing. A space is not a merely passive container. It is not a outer settings, but a essential dimention of the human being. The new regional geography has been discussed in four perspectives: structuration theory perspective, spatial division of lavour theory perspective, world-systems theory perspective, and post-poststructuralism perspective. The new regional approaches well provide a new direction to regional studies. However, it is so abstracted in concepts for the empirical examinations that it is necessary to introduce a meso-level of concept.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.232-251
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to understand sexuality expressed in fashion in a discursive view and reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion in the 19th century in Foucauldian post-structural perspective. As for methodology, at first the conception of sexuality was examined from structural feminism to post-structural pluralism by a literature review and discussed in relation with the matters of body and fashion on the basis of Foucault's discourse. Then, sexuality represented in the 19C fashion as a case study was re-estimated in terms of power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses and mainstream fashion and anti-fashion as well. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structuralism maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by discourse and power produced in a specific historical context. In the Foucauldian perspective sexuality expressed in the mainstream fashion and anti-fashion in the nineteenth century shows the following aspects. The mainstream fashion in the middle and latter of the 19C made the clear sexual difference in dress of plain and functional male suit and extravagant and decorative female dress on the center of bourgeois masculinity in the context of modernity and capitalism. Although anti-fashion was also co-existed with the mainstream fashion, it was criticized by the Victorian people. It codifies sexual ideology of the binary opposition of male domination and female subordination. Therefore, the traditional sexual ideology in the 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the clear sexual difference in dress in the period.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.669-687
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• 2010

Critical scholarship has shown itself much more adept at identifying and analyzing the content of religious geopolitics than its impacts or effects. This article suggests ways in which the concept of social performance can be used to more carefully consider the effects of religious geopolitics. Judith Butler's identity-oriented notion of performativity is usually geographers' point of entry into issues of performance. But its strong poststructuralist distrust of agency limits its power among those who question poststructuralism's grounding beliefs. This article illustrates the added utility of other theories of performance-particularly the recent pragmatic, dramaturgical, and non-poststructuralist theorization of social performance by the cultural sociologist Jeffrey Alexander-in evaluating the impact of religious geopolitical action. It does so through the case of a recent, particularly geopolitically laden Mormon General Conference. It concludes, through Butler and Alexander, that this General Conference likely accomplished significant geopolitical work. But it also, mainly through Alexander, argues that this work likely had limited capacity to motivate new or additional geopolitical action. Its power was more to reinforce than transform.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.483-509
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• 2008

For the last decades, criticism on Frankenstein has tried to make a link between Victor's Creature and Rousseaurean "man in a state of nature." Like the Rousseaurean savage in a state of animal, the monster has only basic instincts least needed for his survival, i.e. self-preservation, but turns into a civilized man after learning language. Most critics argue that, despite the monster's acquisition of language, his failure in entry into a cultural and linguistic community is the outcome of a lack of sympathy for him by others, which displays the stark existence of epistemological barriers between them. That is to say, the monster imagines his being the same as others in the pre-linguistic stage but, in the linguistic stage, he realizes that he is different from others. Interpreting the Rousseaurean idea of language, which appears in his writings, as much more focused on emotion than many critics think, I read the dispute between Victor and his Creature as a variation of parent-offspring conflict. Shelley criticizes Rousseau's parental negligence in putting his children into a foundling hospital and leaving them dying there. The monster's revenge on uncaring Victor parallels the likely retaliation Rousseau's displaced children would perform against Rousseau, which Shelley imaginatively reproduces in her novel. The conflict between the monster and Victor is due to a disrupted attachment between parent and child in terms of Darwinian developmental psychology. Affective asynchrony between parent and child, which refers to a state of lack of mutual favorable feelings, accounts for numerous dysfunctional families. This paper shifts a focus from a semiotics-oriented perspective on the monster's social isolation to a Darwinian perspective, drawing attention to emotional problems transpiring in familial interactions. In doing so, it finds that language is a means of communicating one's internal emotions to others along with other means such as facial expressions and body movements. It also demonstrates that how to promote emotional well-being in either familial or social relationships entirely depends on the way in which one employs language that can entail either pleasure or anger on hearers' part.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.18 no.12
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• pp.513-523
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• 2020

Gill Deleuze is a representative of poststructuralism philosophy who has reevaluated the senses and body. This research reinterprets modern fashion and its relationship with the body based on the core idea of Deleuze's body aesthetics - Body without organs. The results of this study are as follows. First, with the influence of intensity, the body without organs will form three types of body: full body without organs, empty body without organs and cancerous body without organs. Second, modern fashion can create new physical relationships by changing the way of dressing, thus forming the full body without organs. Third, in the empty body without organs, people replace the torture of the body through the destruction of clothing; and the indiscriminate design under egalitarianism will create the cancerous body without organs which full of negative meaning. Through these results, we can have a deeper understanding of the relationship between body and clothing, and apply it to creative expression.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.39 no.5 s.104
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• pp.735-754
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• 2004

This paper provides an overview of political ecology, a body of theory that focuses on the links between political and economic inequality on the one hand, and environmental degradation on the other. Adopting a tripartite classification scheme that identifies three political ecology traditions -'classical', 'democratic' and 'poststructuralist'- the discussion shows the need for a move within the poststructuralist tradition away from a narrow and quasi-idealistic focus on discourse to a more robust philosophical engagement with ontological and epistemological issues grounded in Gilles Deleuze's development of Nietzschean materialism. From there. the author draws on numerous examples from Canada, and surveys the available literature on 'bioregionalism', a relatively new intellectual tradition evolved from the North American environmental social movements of the 1970s and 1980s. The so-called 'bioregional approach' stresses that administrative units need to reflect (rather than transect) eco-geographical and cultural features. Bioregionalism is described and assessed as a potential pragmatic research framework for geographers and other planners wishing to respond proactively to the call for a revamped, poststructuralist political ecology. The paper concludes that a bioregional approach to political ecology avoids the weaknesses identified by certain critics, provides scope for consideration of fundamental philosophical ideas, and as such, represents a practical development of a poststructuralist political ecology.