• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.585-593
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• 2005

Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.156-160
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• 2006

Poststructuralism gives us a clue to totally understand fashion design, which is in danger of difficulty and frivolous ambiguity caused by indiscreet creating and groundless interpretation of Postmodernism. In addition, it leads us to have a new viewpoint, which is freed from stereotyped past concepts and constraints, with regard to fashion design. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, present study employs a two-way research method: analysis of theories and analysis of contents. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design. In analysis of contents, 10 fashion designers are chosen who exhibit new works at every Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter collection. Including 20 works that those designers displayed at Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter from spring/summer 2001 through autumn/winter 2004-2005, a total of 200 works are analyzed.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• 복식
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• 제61권8호
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• pp.100-113
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• 2011

The earlier notion of feminism regarding gender equality was changed into that of Postfeminism because of gender differences. The idea of Postfeminism has been present since the 1980s but has been influenced by modern culture theories such as Postmodernism, Poststructuralism, Theory of Power and Discourse and Psychoanalysis. Various features of Postfeminism are found in the medieval warrior images of contemporary fashion. Warrior costumes were men's exclusive property in the medieval ages, but as it is introduced as women's wear in the 21st century, it shows us new fashion images which are constructed by gender deconstruction, differences and pastiche. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to examine a key characteristic of Postfeminism fashion. An article described the historical costumes of medieval warriors and refocused on the development processes of feminism and then conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and Postfeminism tendencies in contemporary women's wear from 2000 to 2011. The results were that materials such as metallic and flexible materials, monotonic and red colors and detailed patterns of armor were used to display forms of exaggeration and restraint. These elements fully and correctly expressed the image of a medieval warrior woman in contemporary fashion. Postfeminism fashion is constructed with feminine power, gendered identity, sensual elegance and a postmodern body. Postfeminism is the contemporary cultural icon and is continuously influencing modern fashion design in the 21st century in a positive and powerful way.

• 한국지역지리학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.150-160
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• 2002

본 연구는 1980년대 이후 주로 영어권 국가들에서 논의되고 있는 지역지리 연구의 새로운 논의들을 개략적으로 정리하여 그 윤곽을 소개하려는 것이다. 새로운 지역지리 논의는 지리학자들과 사회이론가들과의 활발한 지적 교류가 중요한 계기가 되었다. 신지역지리학을 주창하는 사람들은 공간이 수행하는 역할에 대하여 보다 적극적인 의미를 부여한다. 공간은 그 속에 온갖 사상(事象)(things)을 담고 있는 용기(容器)(containers)가 아니다. 그것은 한낱 어떤 존재의 외부환경에 불과한 것이 아니라, 존재를 존재이게 하는 본질적 차원이다. 신지역지리학은 크게 네 갈래로 논의가 전개되고 있다. 구조화 이론에서 출발하여 시간지리학으로 연결되는 연구 흐름, 공간적 분업론을 기반으로 지역문제에 포괄적으로 접근하고 있는 연구들, 그리고 세계체계론을 공간적 관점에서 재해석하려는 연구들, 마지막으로 탈-후기구조주의 시대에 인간주체를 강조하려는 연구가 그것이다. 그러나 신지역지리 연구는 이론적 논의에 비해 아직 경험적 연구가 많이 축적되지 못한 편이다. 그 이유는 신지역지리 연구이념을 구체적인 경험적 연구로 이어주는 중범위 수준의 개념들이 아직 충분히 개발되지 못하고 있기 때문이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.232-251
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to understand sexuality expressed in fashion in a discursive view and reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion in the 19th century in Foucauldian post-structural perspective. As for methodology, at first the conception of sexuality was examined from structural feminism to post-structural pluralism by a literature review and discussed in relation with the matters of body and fashion on the basis of Foucault's discourse. Then, sexuality represented in the 19C fashion as a case study was re-estimated in terms of power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses and mainstream fashion and anti-fashion as well. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structuralism maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by discourse and power produced in a specific historical context. In the Foucauldian perspective sexuality expressed in the mainstream fashion and anti-fashion in the nineteenth century shows the following aspects. The mainstream fashion in the middle and latter of the 19C made the clear sexual difference in dress of plain and functional male suit and extravagant and decorative female dress on the center of bourgeois masculinity in the context of modernity and capitalism. Although anti-fashion was also co-existed with the mainstream fashion, it was criticized by the Victorian people. It codifies sexual ideology of the binary opposition of male domination and female subordination. Therefore, the traditional sexual ideology in the 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the clear sexual difference in dress in the period.

• 대한지리학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.669-687
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• 2010

종교 지정학은 그 영향이나 효과 보다는 내용을 확인하고 분석하는데 초점을 두고 있다고 비판을 받는다. 본 논문은 종교 지정학의 영향을 신중하게 고려하기 위하여 사회적 수행의 개념을 사용하는 측면들을 제안한다. Judith Butler의 정체성 지향적인 수행성의 개념은 주로 지리학자들이 수행의 문제에 접근하기 위한 시작점이 된다. 그러나 정체성 지향적인 수행성의 개념은 인간의 자율적인 행위 수행(agency)을 매우 불신함으로써 후기구조주의의 기본적인 믿음에 대한 의문을 제시하는 연구자들에게 그 개념의 영향력은 제한적이다. 본 논문은 종교 지정학적 행위의 영향을 평가하는데 수행의 다른 이론의-문화 사회학자인 Jeffrey Alexander에 의한 사회적 수행의 최근의 실용적, 연극론적, 비후기구조주의 이론화-부가적인 유용성을 최근의 지정학적인 몰몬교 연차대회를 사례로 실증한다. 본 연구는 Butler와 Alexander를 통해서 몰몬교 연차대회는 유의미한 지정학적 성취를 이루었다고 결론짓는다. 그러나 본 연구는 주로 Alexander를 통해서 이러한 지정학적 성취는 새롭거나 추가적인 지정학적 행위를 유발시키는데 제한된 역할을 했다는 것을 논의한다. 이러한 지정학적 성취의 영향력은 변환시키기 보다는 강화시키는 것이었다.

• 영어영문학
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.483-509
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• 2008

For the last decades, criticism on Frankenstein has tried to make a link between Victor's Creature and Rousseaurean "man in a state of nature." Like the Rousseaurean savage in a state of animal, the monster has only basic instincts least needed for his survival, i.e. self-preservation, but turns into a civilized man after learning language. Most critics argue that, despite the monster's acquisition of language, his failure in entry into a cultural and linguistic community is the outcome of a lack of sympathy for him by others, which displays the stark existence of epistemological barriers between them. That is to say, the monster imagines his being the same as others in the pre-linguistic stage but, in the linguistic stage, he realizes that he is different from others. Interpreting the Rousseaurean idea of language, which appears in his writings, as much more focused on emotion than many critics think, I read the dispute between Victor and his Creature as a variation of parent-offspring conflict. Shelley criticizes Rousseau's parental negligence in putting his children into a foundling hospital and leaving them dying there. The monster's revenge on uncaring Victor parallels the likely retaliation Rousseau's displaced children would perform against Rousseau, which Shelley imaginatively reproduces in her novel. The conflict between the monster and Victor is due to a disrupted attachment between parent and child in terms of Darwinian developmental psychology. Affective asynchrony between parent and child, which refers to a state of lack of mutual favorable feelings, accounts for numerous dysfunctional families. This paper shifts a focus from a semiotics-oriented perspective on the monster's social isolation to a Darwinian perspective, drawing attention to emotional problems transpiring in familial interactions. In doing so, it finds that language is a means of communicating one's internal emotions to others along with other means such as facial expressions and body movements. It also demonstrates that how to promote emotional well-being in either familial or social relationships entirely depends on the way in which one employs language that can entail either pleasure or anger on hearers' part.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제18권12호
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• pp.513-523
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• 2020

후(後)구조주의 철학자 질 들뢰즈(Gilles Deleuze)는 감각과 신체에 대한 논의를 심층적으로 전개한 바 있다. 본 연구에서는 들뢰즈의 신체 미학의 핵심 사상, 즉, 기관 없는 신체이론을 기초로 현대 패션과 그 신체와의 관계를 재해석한다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 기관 없는 신체는 그 강도에 따라 '충만한 기관 없는 신체'와 '텅 빈 기관 없는 신체' 그리고 '암적인 기관 없는 신체'의 세 가지로 분류할 수 있다. 둘째, 현대 패션은 착용 방식의 변화에 따라 새로운 신체관계를 창조할 수 있고 충만한 기관 없는 신체를 형성할 수 있다. 셋째, 텅 빈 기관 없는 신체 상태에서는 옷을 훼손함으로써 부정적인 의미의 암적인 기관 없는 신체를 만들 수 있다. 현대 패션디자인에 반영된 들뢰즈의 기관 없는 신체론과 강도 분석을 통해, 신체와 의복의 상관관계를 더욱 깊이 이해하고, 이를 통해 패션디자이너들의 창의적 표현의 근간이 되기를 바란다.

• 대한지리학회지
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• 제39권5호
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• pp.735-754
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• 2004

이 논문은 정치생태학이론을 정치적 및 경제적 불균등 간의 연계측면과 환경파괴에 초점을 맞춘 측면을 동시에 개략적으로 검토한 것이다. 본 논문에서는 정치생태학 전통을 '고전적', '민주적', '탈 구조주의적'으로 나누는 3가지 분류 도식을 채택하였다. 탈 구조주의 전통은 협의의 준(準)이상적인 담론으로부터 존재론적이고 인식론적인 이슈에 더 강한 철학적 참여로 나아갈 필요가 있다. 후자의 견해는 니체의 유물론에서 발전된 Gilles Deleuze의 것에 입각한다. 이러한 배경에서. 본 논문은 1970 및 80년대에 북미의 환경운동으로부터 발달된 비교적 새로운 지적 전통인 '생물지역주의'에 관한 문헌들을 검토한다. 또한 이른바 '생물지역적 접근'은 행정단위는 생태-지리적 및 문화적 현상을 갈라놓기보다는 반영할 필요가 있다. 생물지역주의는 탈 구조주의적 정치생태학의 수정 필요성에 동조하는 지리학자와 계획가들에게 잠재적인 실용적 연구의 개념적 틀로서 평가된다. 결론적으로 정치생태학에 대한 생물지역적 접근은 비평에 의해 확인된 약점들을 회피하면서. 기초적인 철학적 관념의 고려사항의 범위론 제공하고. 그로부터 탈 구조주의적 정치생태학의 실용적 발달을 이룰 수 있다.