• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.234-238
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• 2004

Loess was selected as one of the natural dyes and dye solution was extracted from it. With the dyes extracted from loess, the sample fabrics were dyed at 10, 20, and 30 minutes and then $CuSO_4$ was used to treat the dyed fabrics on the concentration of 3%, and 5%. Color difference and colorfastness of the sample fabrics with dyeing time and concentration of post-mordanted agent were analysed. The results were as follows: 1. Effective dying time was 20 minutes since any more dye up-take to the fabrics did not occur after that time. 2. There was distinctive dyeing effect according to whether post-mordanted method was done or not, but there was little effect between post-mordanted concentration of 3% and 5%. 3. There was no effect of the colorfastness on the post-mordanted concentration. The abrasion and laundering colorfastness of post-mordanted fabric samples was better than those of no post-mordanted fabric samples and the light colorfastness of the fabric samples was good regardless of post-mordanted method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.476-480
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• 2006

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was analyzed. It was dyed in silk fabric according to various dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The maximum absorbance of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was at 521 nm. The dyeaffinities were increased gradually as were increased dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hues of mordanted silk fabrics were RP, P, PB, BG where as non mordanted silk fabric was R. Lightfastness was the best at pre-Sn mordanted and the worst at Post-Al mordanted. Washing and perspiration fastnesses were improved on pre and post-Sn mordanted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.145-152
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• 2006

Dyeing properties of sargent cherry of Prunus sargentii Rehder were investigated with silk fabrics. The absorbed wave lengths at UV-VIS spectrometer were 362nm, 386nm, 430nm, and 512nm. The K/S value showed high in following conditions: 100%(w/w) stock solution, 60 minutes of dyeing time, 80$^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, and 5 times of dyeing repetition. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordant than in pre-mordant, and the change of color did not appear in pre-mordant samples. They were colored greenish yellow in post-mordanted Cu and Fe. The highest dyeability and $\Delta$E showed in post-mordanted Fe. The light fastness showed 3-4 in post-mordanted Fe, 1-2 in pre-mordanted Al, and washing and perspiration fastnesses showed also good results in post-mordanted Fe.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.441-444
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• 2007

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Purple onion shell extract was analyzed. It was dyed in cotton fabric according to various dye weight, dyeing temperature, dyeing time. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The dyeaffinities were increased as were increased dye weight, especially 100% owf. The optimum dyeing condition of Purple onion shell extract was 40minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hue of all mordanted cotton fabrics changed into Yellow where as non mordanted cotton fabric was Red. The color fastnesses of mordanted cotton fabrics were generally not so god, but light fastness was improved in post-Cu mordanted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.121-132
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• 1996

This study showed the proper pigment extract in the Phe. Dyeing which is the basic dye of the natural plants dyeing,. Also it compared and examined the K/S the promotion of the color fastness and the effect of color difference change were attended by mordants and method of mordanting. 1. The most absorbance of Phellodendron. sol-ution is 330nm berberine is 430nm. 2. The best and proper temperature to extrat Phe,. was 80 and dyeing solution for 24 hours. 3. The pH effect was stable in the absorbances and color differences change. 4. Mordanted group increased the absorbances compared to non-mordanted sample. In case depth the most absorbance of Al. Sn. K. Cu and C. A solution were in 3% Fe and Cr were in 5%. In the color difference change they became dark reduced greenish and increased yellowish when their absorbances were in 3% 5. K./S was recoginzed by tainnin and fe, K/S was more increased pre-mordants than post-mordants. 6. Fe is the unchangable mordant in the color difference change and pre-mordants is more stable than post-mordants in the difference color. 7. Generally light C. F indicated more than grade 2 and light C. F, was much improved in post-mordanted by alumium potassium potass-ium dichromate. Washing C.F was improved in mordanted by tainnin and ferrous suulfate mordanted group was better than non-mordanted sample. Perspir-ation C,F was more stable in acid than alkali. Dry cleaning C.F indicated more than grade. 4.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

This study was carried out on the process of natural dye substances which can flock ultraviolet rays without producing harmful substances by pollution, germs, etc. While making human body safe in contact, extracting Gardenia, Sappan wood, Radix scutellariae, Cromwell, Mugwort, Gallnut, Lac. Those are used for curing diseases, dyeing silk cloth with those extracts, and examining the color fastness, Ultraviolet protection. From this study, the following conclusion was produced. Brightness was lower in pre-mordanting than in post. And color difference showed that Radix scutellariae was the highest. Aluminum-mordanting showed a higher color difference than Fe. Colorfastness to washing was high in all samples, and the degree of color-changing by washing was the highest in the sample dyed by gardenia, pre-mordanted gallnut showed the highest degree. Colorfastness to perspiration was the highest in gardenia. UV-A test showed that all samples a high rate of 85% or higher compared with test white cloth. Especially, post-mordanted radix scutellariae, pre-mordanted gallnut and post-mordanted sappanwood showed a superior blocking rate.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.983-989
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify mordant effects of Chestnut hulls. The color of post and pre-mordanted fabrics were measured in terms of H, V, C, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and K/S values. In addition, color fastness and antimicrobial activity were evaluated. The pre-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls for cotton, mercerized cotton and silk was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 70% (o.w.f.), respectively. Post-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls of mercerized cotton, silk and cotton was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 90% (o.w.f.), respectively. The hue of fabrics was influenced by mordant methods, such as pre-mordant and post-mordant, slightly. Wet cleaning fastness of pre-mordanted cotton and mercerized cotton fabrics was higher than that of post-mordanted fabrics. The wet cleaning fastness of silk fabrics was not affected by the mordant method, and their fastness were proved to be excellent. The dry cleaning fastness of post-mordanted cotton fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted cotton fabrics. The dry cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton and silk was proved to be excellent regardless of mordant methods. The antimicrobial activity of Oenothera odorata jacquin dyed fabrics and Chestnut hulls mordanted fabrics was proved to 99.9%, and their excellent antimicrobial activity remained after wet and dry cleaning.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.69-81
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• 2014

Fabric made of 100% silk was dyed with Undaria pinnatifida extracts under different conditions such as varing colorant concentration, temperature, time and dyebath pH. The dye uptake (K/S, value), CIE L*,a*,b* and Munsell values of the dyed samples and mordanted samples were measured. Colorfastness, antibacterial property and UV protection property were also evaluated. As colorants concentration increased, the dye uptake increased progressively and maximum color strength was obtained at 100% V/V. Dye uptake also increased with increasing temperature and time, and the maximum color strength was obtained at $80^{\circ}C$ and 60min. With pre-mordanting, the color of the Al and Fe mordanted silk fabrics was yellow on the Munsell color system, while the Cu mordanted fabric was a greenish color. Al and Fe post-mordanted fabrics had a yellow tone, and the Cu post-mordanted fabric had a yellow greenish tone. The light fastness property of the Cu mordanted silk fabric was relatively good, The effect of Al and Fe mordanting on fastness was insignificant. The antibacterial activity of dyed and unmordanted silk fabric was excellent, whereas fabric dyed and mordanted with Undaria pinnatifida extract demonstrated superior ultraviolet protection.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.256-265
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.33-41
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• 1997

This paper surveys the extraction condition of polygenetic natural dye, Sappan Wood and the effect of ash to the dyeability and fastness. The appropriate time for extracting Sappon Wood was 1hour. The pH was increased as the amount of ash increase. The pH was nearly invariable according to the time of ash solution, the extracting times and temperature. Absorbance of dyeing fabrics was about 480nm. From the result of K/S value determination of fabrics, 10g/$\ell$ quantity of ash was surfficient for treatment and the amount of Sappon Wood was in 100% o.w.f.. K/S value of fabrics pre-mordanted or post-mordanted were higher than that of fabrics simultaneous mordanted.K/S value was increased as pH of mordanting bath decrease and pre-mordanting and post-mordanting fabrics increased the amount of absorption (K/S value) compared with non-mordanted fabrics. It was found that pH of mordanting bath affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed fabrics. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the mordanting conditions and methods.