• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.595-601
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• 1994

This study was accomplished to investigate drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics according to treatment processes and brushing conditions. For this study, grey fabrics of blended ratio of polyester 65% : cotton 35% were bleached and dyed. These fabrics were then brushed 1, 3, 5 and 7 times. Drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics were measured by drape tester and shirley crease recovery tester respectively. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate mechanical properties, handle, drapability, and wrinkle recovery 1) Drape coefficients of dyed fabric showed lower values and wrinkle recovery showed higher ones than those of bleached and dyed fabrics. Especially dyed fabric brushed 3 times showed good appearance and form stability. 2) Considering the blocked properties that contribute to the drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics, bending and shearing properties had a high degree of correlation with brushed fabrics, and 2HB/W showed a high positive correlation with drape coefficient and a high negative correlation with wrinkle recovery.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.515-523
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• 1994

This study was accomplished to investigate the mechanical properties and handle according to treatment processes and brushing condition. For this study, grey fabrics of blended ratio of polyester 65% : cotton 35% were bleached and dyed. These fabrics were then brushed 1, 3, 5 and 7 times. The mechanical properties were measured with a KES-F system and the mechanical data were then transformed into hand values by the conversion equation, that is, KN-201-MDY. The results obtained by the analysis are as follows; 1) The variation of mechanical properties was remarkable in the initial brushing of 1∼ 3 cycles for all of grey, bleached and dyed fabrics. The values of RT, 2HB, B, G, 2HGS, MMD and SMD were decreased and MIU, WC and T were increased with the increase of number of brushing . 2) LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS, MMD, SMH and W of dyed fabrics which is coincident with the end use showed lower values than those of grey or bleached fabrics, but MIU, WC and T were higher 3) From the variation of hand value, stiffness of dyed fabric showed lower value than that of grey or bleached fabric. On the other hand, smoothness, soft feeling and total hand values of dyed fabric were higher. Especially, dyed fabric showed the highest total value at the 3 cycles of brushing condition.