• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.63-74
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• 2003

The first objective of this study is to investigate and analyze the construction of TUTU and secondly, to propose a systematic research background on a sewing method of TUTU. The final objective is to provide the exquisiteness and the comfort for customer when wearing a stage costume. The research method to investigate the TUTU construction in detail is by renting or buying three major TUTU brands, which are selling in Korea. The results of this study can be summarized into four categories. Firstly, the Bustier composes into 8 to10 patches, and the external material or accessory differs by the work of art and its characteristics. Moreover, the cotton is used for the inner material. which depends on dancer's vital activities. Secondly, a skirt layer ranges from 6 to 12 layers with laces. In addition, the gather or the pleats is used to form a crease. Thirdly, lace or cotton is the material used for culottes because it is stretchy and lightweight. For the waist part. a rubber band is used since its wearability plus functionality. Lastly, an adjusting part for a stage costume varied for each dressers physical feature and can be corrected with inner hems together a hook, a thread loop or a zip. In conclusion, the results of this study can provide the quality improvement for TUTU and furthermore can propose a framework for an understanding and a practical use of TUTU construction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.135-144
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• 2007

This study is about the three pieces of jackets with a symmetric collar that was used to fill in the empty spaces in coffin excavated in 2004, from Seok-nam-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon. The similarities of these three jackets are that the collars are symmetric, there are seops(the outer bodies to overlap the front sides of a jacket) with pleats, and openings on the side seam. The No.2, and No.6 seem to be jegori to wear over others, and the fabrics used for No.2 is damask with cloud pattern, and damask with lotus flower pattern. For the No.4, satin was used and there is peacock pattern weaved on satin using golden thread. No.41 is unlined clothes made with Suk-cho, and the distinctive feature about this clothes is that the collar, and the neckline are very narrow. The three jackets are similar with the recently reported clothes of Kim clan of Gang-leung (deducted to be buried in 1520), the collection of Seok Joo-sun Memorial Museum. Through this report, it provides information about some aspects of upper class women's clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.147-165
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop design of maternity dress combined with nursing. Six maternity wears combined with nursing were developed through the literature, preceding studies, and web sites those were about pregnancy, breast feeding, a maternity wear, and a nursing wear. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In order to develop clothes of diverse styles and designs, an after five dress, a poncho style blouse, wrap culotte as well as a skirt suit, a pants suit, an one-piece dress were designed. 2. It was established to make more amounts of front ease than those of back ease and to supplement a frontal hanging portion in consideration of breast development and abdominal prominence. 3. In order to make use of a maternity wear after a birth, stretch fabric was used for an abdominal part or whole clothes. Also an empire line and pleats, a poncho style, a shirts blouse, and inserting a string were used for it. 4. the fabrics of cotton, mixed cotton, polyester were used because pregnant women and nursing mothers perspires more than others do. 5. The horizontal, vertical, diagonal slits for a breast feeding were made. The storm flap of a trench coat, a machine pleated fabric, a poncho, a bolero style were used for a nursing cover.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.1 s.33
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• pp.55-67
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• 1990

This is a review on the longitudinal transformation of the Japanese trousers, which is prepared as a pre-study for the comparative analysis of the forms of Korean and Japanese folk trousers. The special traits of the Japanese trousers are found to be as follows: 1) The Japanese trousers seem to have their root in the Northern-Asian or Schithian culture. 2) While the ancient forms of Japanese trousers, esp., those of the 8C before include the same types as Korean folk trousers, the Medieval and Recent era trousers quite differ and transform themselves into the unique Japanese type. 3) All Japanese trousers can largely be classified into formal and functional trousers. Formal trousers play important role as one of the ceremonial wardrobe and are treated rather as an outermost-wear than as an inner-wear. 4) The formal trousers have skirt-like features with much fullness as are presented in many deep pleats, long crotch lines and long sashes connected to the belt; the femine trousers even omit crotch line. 5) The principal forms of Japanese trousers consist of I, $\wedge,\;\wedge$; the $\lambda$ form of Korean and Chinese type had never existed. 6) Varieties of the composite type of Japanese-Western style appear among the trousers of recent time.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.249-265
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• 2005

Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers' figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.75-83
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• 2010

Hanbok Chima, a Korean skirt, with large-volume should have an archetypal drawing model for appropriate cultural and historical accuracy. In order to develop new Hanbok Chima archetypal drawings we drew a skirt by connecting height with a design structure adopted from Jeogori, a Korean jacket. As a result, an archetypal drawing was developed from which circumference of lower width of Chima, size of pleats in waist circumference, and length of Chima as well as a scheme of layering Chima and Jeogori can be obtained. In this drawing, width of Chima can increase or decrease naturally according to height. However, in case of same heights and different chest circumferences if 2.5cm of additional value is provided for every 5cm increase in chest circumference, Chima of any size can be made based on this drawing. In conclusion, given the demonstrated practicality of designing a Hanbok Chima with large-volume based on archetypal drawings, it is expected that the results of this study will provide useful scientific data for Korean costume designs.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.85-108
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• 1994

This study intends to provide sources which enable students to satisfy uniform design as I surveyed preferable uniform design and degree of satisfaction of uniform design to students. The subjects were gathered into 91 middle-high schools and surveys were done among 400 school girls. The results are as follows; 1)The survey of uniform which students wear. For jacket, tailored collar which is single breasted is most common and for blouse, puff sleeve, soutein collar, shirt collar is common. For skirt, lastly, they usually wear side pleats skirt. 2) Thoughts of uniform students preferred uniform to casual. The merit of wearing uniform can represent themselves as the ‘students’on the other hand, the demerit is shown that uniform is inconvenient enough to move. 3)Preference of uniform design. Students prefer tailored jacket, shirt blouse, flare skirt. Basing on these results above, I’d like to suggest something about uniform. The demerit of wearing uniform lies in inconvenience. It would weaken the degree of satisfaction of uniform and have a negative influence on students in physical and mental side. So we have to find out the concrete problems, at the same time, develop measurable study which fit for body. Adolescence is period of developing and establishing self. So they really need rather creative educational atmosphere than stereo typed-control. Reflecting this opinion, Clothing habits can play an important role and in future it is desirable to have students wear not uniform but casual.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.153-161
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• 2007

In 2004, Mal-gun(抹裙) was excavated from a plastered tomb in Seok-nam-dong, In-cheon. This tomb is assumed to be from an upper-class woman. The excavated Mal-gun was used to fill in the empty spaces in coffin, and it was seriously damaged and foxed dark. The Mal-gun is made with thin, loose Sook-cho(숙초), and the width of the fabric is 70cm. Both sides of the crotches are overlapped in front, and the back is opened. The waist straps are detached, leaving a little part to show the width of the straps. The hems of the Mal-gun are sewed straight, without any pleats, except some spaces for the feet to go through. This study compared the Mal-gun of Joseon Dynasty from the documentary records and picture records with the excavated Mal-gun from Seok-nam-dong, In-chceon. Also, actual Mal-gun was manufactured according to the excavated Mal-gun to study the process of manufacturing and the formation. As a result, the excavated Mal-gun has the same form of that shown in Ak-hak-gwae-bum, a documentary record from the early period of Joseon Dynasty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.265-271
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• 2010

This study aims at academically organizing fashion coordination methods for interview image-making, which have been attempted through seminars in companies and universities, through empirical studies including previous studies and surveys conducted by groups of experts. The methods of this study include theoretical considerations through literature and empirical considerations such as one-to-one interviews and surveys of groups of experts in the areas of fashion and interview. Through these methods, this study examined elements of image-making characteristics of fashion for an interview, which are required for an interview, by investigating and analyzing interview image-making. As a result of the examination, the characteristics of proper clothes for an interview are as follows; Items of clothes: tailored, tuxedo, Chanel, Eton, blazer jackets, button-down and dress shirts, shirt waist, bow, Gibson blouses, tight, A-line, gored, pleats, flared skirts and straight, boot-cut and ankle pants. Color: achromatic colors including white, gray, black, navy, pink and yellow. Patterns: solid, stripe, and basket check.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1042-1055
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the formative characteristics of dance sports from such points of view as shapes, colors, material and decorations, and to examine artistic characteristics that are expressed through those elements. As a result, this study shows five artistic characteristics as follows; First, rhythmic characteristic is expressed with repeat of lines that is formed by pleats, shirring or gather, with duplication of ruffle's wave, with gradation of colors, with Moire-effect that is generated with overlap of see-through material, with glossy material that reflects lights to a great extent, with fringe. Second, bodily characteristic emphasizes the beauty of human bodies through direct or indirect body exposure by way of cut-and-open, see-throughness or close adhesion. Third, decorative characteristic is shown with beads, fringe, ruffle, embroidery, shirring, binding, or feather. Fourth, the beauty of female body is manifested to express eroticism, which is culminated by body exposure, body consciousness, use of illuminating or see-through material or colorful trimming. Finally, elegant characteristic is revealed through feminity, sophistication, and harmony that are expressed with black and white colors, see-through material, or bead trimmings.