• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.308-318
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop the functionally improved winter work clothing for the Korean railroad workers. Based on the questionnaires, the sample clothing for the Korean railroad workers was produced. The design, materials, and patterns were modified to increase mobility and comfort of workers. Water-repellent treatment was added to the material in order to decrease the dirt and stains while working. Also the reflective strips were added to chest and back of the upper garment in order to increase visibility and safety of the workers. In terms of the design and pattern underarm of the sleeve and side panel of the bodice were put in together and action pleats at the back were inserted in order to decrease the pullback of the armpit and scapular area and increase mobility of the arm movement. Also the patterns of the elbows areas were modified to increase mobility of joint. The prototype was evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment to compare to the existing working uniform. Assessment group was consisted of 5 subject groups and 11 expert groups and evaluated external appearance and adaptability to the movements. According to the results, the prototype was evaluated better than the existing working uniform in appearance and adaptability except height of collar. A field test was conducted to compare the prototype and the existing working uniform. The field tests were performed by 6 workers in the Korean railroad. According to the results, the prototype was improved in terms of adaptability and comfort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.819-830
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• 2010

This study proposes medical gowns for interns and residents that address the functions of utility and activity. Based on the questionnaires, the prototype focused on the pockets for practical use and movement adaptability. Functional pockets were made by increasing pocket sizes and separating pockets with sections according to use. An inside pocket and a loop for an identification tag was placed on the chest pocket and the side seam pocket were oblique lined. To resolve horizontal stress on the back of the gown,6 cm action pleats were added at both ends of the bladebone. The elbow area was tucked up to improve the workplace activities. To reduce hamper on the gown hemline, slits were added along the gown side seam. The front button was changed into an inside button closure. The cuffs, belt, and back waist belt were removed due to occupational cases of inconvenience. The length of the sleeves was adjusted with belts to improve the movement of the arms. In accordance with design preference, the gown was designed to be knee-length with wrist length sleeves. Blue colored (2.5PB 3/12: by Munsell) material was inserted to reduce the contamination on the neck, cuffs, front closure, and hemline area. The planning cloth of the experimental gown was designed to improve activity function, cleaning, and comfort from light materials. The field test (with 30 doctors at university hospitals and the objective assessment with 9 subject groups)were done by the valuation between the existing gown and the prototype. The results showed that the prototype had to be modified by decreasing the pocket size, expanding the usage of the penholder, and simplify front pockets in order to maintain unity. The loop for the identification tag, inside pocket, and the blue colored material had to be removed. The front closure of the gown had to return to its original state.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.166-182
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to develop a wedding dress design using digital clothing program to produce an actual dress. The level of actualization of the wedding dress design through digital clothing was evaluated by comparing the shape, ornament details, material, and tone. Also, the direction of improvement was sought by apprehending the limitations for the future of wedding dress design created by digital clothing. In order to evaluate the level of actualization on major design techniques of wedding dress, design planning of 4 dresses was performed based on the major images of wedding dresses. Virtual dress was created using DC Suite program and an actual wedding dress was produced using the pattern created in the process of virtual dress designing. The wedding dress designed by digital clothing was superior in silhouette or expression of pleats, but they rather lacked in expressing corsage, 3-dimensional objects, sheen material or double material. However, by supplementing a few functions, digital clothing can be effectively utilized in wedding dress design with the convenience and speed of digital operation. The digital clothing performs rapid production in the design development stage, modifies simply and confirms in real time and is highly effective, Therefore, if a program designed for wedding dress is developed, its effectiveness will be improved to maximize the customer satisfaction, and it will significantly reduce the time and cost which will make a great contribution to the wedding industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.102-115
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• 2002

The purposes of this study are to comprehend the internal meaning and the external form in style of Greek statue's clothing in the light of linked solution, and to compare the characterizations of style of Greek statue's clothing with those in Greek Art. For these purpose, the theoretical studies about Greek art are preceded as a framework of this research, and then plastic characteristics of Greek statue's clothing and Greek art are analyzed by the documentary studies, For sources, photographs of Greek statue in Archaeological Museum and Louvre museum are used. The result is as follows. It is demonstrated that the characters of internal meaning in style of Greek art and Greek statue's clothing. The internal meaning of style of Greek art and Greek statue's clothing are as follows 1) Beauty of vital is subject that possessed life and movement and embodied dynamics or inherent power. 2) Beauty of moderation is subject that achieves some of its most impressive and practise a similar economy and restraint. 3) Beauty of character is subject that reveals the character of its wearer and has its own charm and distinction The Greeks clarified beauty by looking for mathematical proportions. It is the interrelation of part with one another, and with the whole, together with the additional element of good colour, which constitutes beauty as perceived by the eyes. The beauty in style of Greek statue's clothing consists of a sense of geometrical pattern, oder, symmetry, proportion, and rhythm.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• 제44권7호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to survey the wearing practices and problems in the working uniform for volunteer fire brigade members and then to develop its design with a improved movement adaptability, physical suitability, ease for equipment accommodation, functionality, convenience and fit. Based on the questionnaire, we have made a testing uniform for volunteer fire brigade members first. Through a subjective analysis for functionality and apparence, we suggested a final design. The final design includes the following elements: 1. It was a two-piece style composed of a jumper and trousers with the upper garments pulled out. Raglan sleeves were used to increase arm's movement scope. Pleats and velcro tapes were attached along the base hem of sleeves to prevent heat transmission. 2. Various types of pockets were attached to secure enough space for keeping things. 3. In trousers, spare space was given at the buttock area with rubber string inserted only at selected part of side lines, and knee pads were attached to prevent wearing out.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.399-416
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate students' satisfaction with, perceived ease of movement of, and perceived fit of high school girls' uniforms according to the uniform design. "P" high school, with a one-piece dress-type uniform, and "H" high school, with a two-piece type uniform, were selected for this study. Sixty-five female students from each school participated in the study. The questionnaire was composed of 21 questions about the school uniforms' purchase behavior, design, fit, ease of movement, and modification and participants' demographic information. Students from both schools were generally satisfied with the uniform design. However, in the open-ended response section, many "P" high school students responded that the fact that the one-piece dress pulled up when sitting or raising the hand made it uncomfortable. On the other hand, "H" high school students responded that the skirt was uncomfortable, because it left the body or underwear exposed when the wind blew due to the many pleats in the skirt. In the assessment of the ease of movement, "P" high school students were more likely to describe the uniform as uncomfortable than "H" high school students. Many students responded that they modified their school uniforms, and the length of the skirt and one-piece dress was the main part that was modified. This study suggests that growing female high school students are unsatisfied with the school uniforms' design and fit. Additionally, the perceived fit and satisfaction levels depend on the uniform design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.270-282
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1009-1018
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for middle-aged abdomen-obese adult males by using the 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were males who had over $25kg/m^2$ of BMI, over 90cm of waist, and over 0.90 of WHR. A total of 211 adult males who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: first, a new slacks pattern considerate of abdomen-obese men was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows: front and back hip girth H/4+3.5, front waist girth W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth W/4+1-0.5, front crotch extension H/16, back crotch extension H/8-0.5, front pleats amount 2.7, and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks patterns appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for the abdomen-obese men. Also, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models of production through data from a 3D body scan, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method in order to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.