• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.806-823
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• 2023

The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the develop- ment of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction's aesthetic features termed 'traditional fusion', 'positive playfulness', 'open communication', and 'multiple inclusiveness'. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang's fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, 'traditional fusion' combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, 'positive playfulness' promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, 'open communication' emphasizes design that combines practicality and creati- vity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, 'multiple inclusiveness' breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.156-170
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• 2005

As contemporary art tends to diverge from its fixed genres and intends to appeal to the public, fashion comes to contribute to the contemporary art area, by playing an important part in the creation of artistic value of art work. Nowadays, it is not unusual to see fashion work shown in an art exhibition parallel with art work, since some artists adopt costumes as the medium of their work in order to explore various means of expression. The occurrence of philosophical, sociological theories concerning human body parallelled with the prevalence of the post-structuralist ideas and occurrence of various styles of artistic expressions of body encouraged active research and attracted social attention to body. With such background, fashion art was formed by a means of the integration of body and fashion in order to create extreme artistic expression. 1 intend to investigate a variety of trends in fashion art from the viewpoint of body space. This study developed criteria for fashion image in contemporary art. Those criteria are based on the dichotomy that divides body into inner aspects and outer aspects. According to the criteria, Firstly, the extension type of body shape includes enlargement and reduction as its sub-types. Secondly, the opening-closure type includes opening type and closure type as its sub-types. Thirdly, the intensity type categorizes clothes into uniqueness and hybridity. Dynamism type classifies fashion art into fixation and moving. The various expressions of clothes type are interpreted as a means by which we can criticize many phenomena of modern society, such as loss of humanity, isolation of individuals, loss of identity, commercialism, and materialism. In the latter period of modern society, the integration of the double-faced nature of body and spirit was attempted and popular fashion was introduced into art in order to express desire, death, gender, identity, and sexual pleasure.

• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.50-69
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• 2014

Sustainability has been a big issue over the whole global industry lately and is an important fashion trend that reflects the modern phase of the time. The concept of sustainable fashion includes physical fashion products made from eco-friendly or recycle materials as well as ethical value such as corporate social responsibility for environment, labor or working condition. Fashion companies of advanced countries who are aware of the geo-environmental and ethical issues found that generating profits by setting trends and pursuing external beauty can no longer be the ultimate goal of fashion companies, and started to recognize the importance of sustainable fashion as a future-oriented trend. Not only fashion industry but also governments of advanced countries have been playing a leading role to educate the people regarding the importance of sustainable fashion and making large investments to foster industry specialists in educational institution. The aim of this study is to propose sustainable fashion design education program that fits the domestic university curriculum and government-leading education program in order to set the foundation for sustainable fashion industry. Thus, this study investigates successful cases of foreign government-led sustainable fashion education that can be introduced to improve domestic sustainable fashion education. The empirical study of the research is developing 12-15 week university level education program to foster specialists in sustainable fashion. The survey carried out by the students who participated in the program shows the change of perception on sustainable fashion. Developed university level program can be spread to municipal corporation, school of continuing education, and etc. in order to derive participation and problem perception of the citizens on sustainability. Developing systemized sustainable fashion design education program would be the first step of sustainable fashion by educating students who will take the leading role in the future fashion industry. Moreover, it can strongly influence future customer education as well as a special education inducing interest on sustainability in everyday life. A follow-up study is expected to serve as a foundation for sustainable fashion to take root successfully in the fashion industry.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.135-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this research was intended to investigate drag queens' and drag kings' gender identity not only as a comic and desexualized drag borrowing external characteristics of the opposite sex but also as the subject visualizing and performing' the third sex'. It also aimed to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion and to confirm the functions of drag queen's and drag kins's fashion to establish, visualize and Perform the discordant sex. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Understanding drag, drag queen and drag king in social, psychological context as well as in gender context. 2. Finding visualized forms which drag performance interchange with mass media 3. Analyzing similarities and differences between drag queen's fashion and drag king's fashion. 4. Examining the aesthetical characteristics and the value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion. The results of characteristics of drag queen's fashion could be categorized into stereotype, mimicry, kitch, inconsistency and commercialism. And the characteristics of drag king's fashion could be divided into reality, self-consciousness, mimicry, inconsistency, subversion and multiplicity. Drag queens create plausible impressions of feminity through the use of wigs, dresses, jewelry, makeup, hormones and through &role Playing&. Similarly drag kings produce a plausible masculinity taking gay male aesthetic using suits, crotch stuffers, facial hair, and greased hair. Male and female impersonation produce very different notions of gender performance for male and female embodiment. Drag kings' performance of masculinity demands authentic property of bodies so rather nonperformative, while drag queens' performance of femininity depends on more visible and theatrical fashion.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.131-148
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• 2003

Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty. root of Korean traditional pattern. has 5 types of pattern in its 24tombs: Fire pattern. Sun . Moon pattern, Flying angel pattern. Hill.Tree pattern, Holy animal bird Pattern. These patterns had developed specially in 3 regions that are Hwanghae-region, Pyongan-region, Jipan-region. from 4th-7th Century. A lot of fire pattern has found at Pyongan-region in 5th century. The ceiling right above 'Dori' frequently had the pattern. The pattern is organized in 'Kyoho' method. The sun.moon pattern was shown in Pyongan-region in 5th century. '3-leg bird'. representative of sun, and frog, representative of moon. were drawn in the pattern in 6th century, rabbit was added with frog in the pattern. Flying angel pattern had found most in Jipan region in 5th century. The pattern was not found in 4th century. Two types of the pattern are angels playing $$\mu$ical instruments and angels preying. The hill tree pattern was simple, antique, and immature in the beginning. the pattern had developed with real description as a landscape picture after the beginning. this pattern has been categorized as a landscape painting. Holy animal and bird patternn had placed in supporting rock between ceiling and floor with the mean of protection in after life These pattern, which were previously influenced by Chines culture, were developed with a base of Koguryo own tradition and supported establishment of a characterized Koguryo Cloture. This study will be a basic document for modern fashion industry of 21 century.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.148-160
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• 2014

This study proposed the design development of performance uniform for Korean classical music. To do this, we considered the state of the performance uniform of the Korean Classical Music Band through photographic data. The research targeted the performers in Korean Classical Music Band, and conducted a survey for the preference of type, pattern, decoration, color and fabric materials. Based on the results, we extracted the design of performance uniform, which is suitable for the environment of Korean classical music performance and meets the substantial requirements of performers. The performance uniform that the current national or public Korean classical music bands are using, has two types: Western clothing and Hanbok. The attire is influenced by the genre of the music that they are playing because one of its main functions is to deliver the music to audience effectively. In addition, there are some differences in the uniform based on the gender, but no division in the design of clothing according to music instruments. However, the result of the survey show that there was no difference in preference by gender, but there was some difference according to the division of music instruments. On this study, we reflected this result in the design, and proposed the design of an convenient outer garment for everyone to wear in the music performance band.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.70-83
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• 2013

Lately, cities have been trying to build a certain brand by using its identity and culture in public designs. Cities are using its public design to show its cultural identity and to differentiate itself from other cities so it is playing a significant role in establishing a city's overall image. Public uniform is used to reflect the symbolism and identity of the city, an image of the city's culture and is used as a means of communication for specialization. Thus, the purpose of this study is to develop public uniform designs to build and strengthen the brand of Gwangju as Asia cultural hub city. Research presents a review of the literature including concept and type of a cultural city, correlativity between public design and urban competitiveness, domestic and foreign culture city branding case: focusing on Gwangju which is a cultural hub city in Asia, and then study sets up the development direction and motifs of uniform designs, and uniforms are designed by making use of the textile with symbols and logos, colors, and architectural motifs of Asian Culture Complex. Development ranges of uniforms were limited to Cultural Tourism Narrators and the Asian Culture Complex Advertisements staff uniforms, within the region of cultural tourism. Textile design, illustration, uniform simulation using Adobe Photoshop 7.0 and Adobe Illustrator CS 3 program is presented.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.510-524
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• 2007

There is something common between the Korean female Kukkuk and the Japanese Takarazuka Revue in that actors are all females and love is the main theme. Some of the females should play men's roles, so they are described as ideal men and are more manly than real men, and female audiences are attracted by them. It is hard for actresses to play men's roles-they have to stretch open their shoulders, walk with long steps and produce a deep voice. They put on a makeup a little exaggeratedly to perfectly disguise themselves as men and express strong images-some red tone makeup on their face, thick eyebrows with their ends upward, thick eye lines to make eyes seem bigger and stronger, and thick side whiskers. On the contrary, a makeup for female characters is softer to highlight femininity with thin penciled hair parted and braided on the sides of the face. The Takarazuka Revue's students are divided into male characters and female ones from the regular course of music schools, and they select their roles in consideration of their height and range of voice, mainly based on their wish. In case of male characters, they need a long career and verification of ability to be the best. Females playing men's roles and showing their manliness are violation of a social custom standardizing the character of males and females and are the reverse of roles expected by a society or a culture. A world experienced by these plays is a kind of revolt breaking the taboo of the patriarchal system.