• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.919-933
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• 2005

This study goes into the field of CosPlay that takes place in Korea, and directly observes the people who engage in CosPlays. Based on in-depth interviews, this research identified the reasons why the CosPlay aficionados participate in this practice and their cultural preferences. Ethnography methodology was used to understand the behavior of the cultural entities of CosPlays. Moreover, this research attempted to understand their daily formalities through their own perspective and language instead of superficial language. In general, CosPlay form that they manifest is classified into two main categories: those who enjoy posing by becoming their favorite characters and those like to wear the clothes of their favorite characters and go up on the stage to perform an act of animation or game where the applicable character appears. Some of these groups are: 1) 'Bishojo CosPlay' that CosPlays mostly Bishojo cartoon characters and wants to just stand out, 2) 'Aekyo' group that CosPlays merely for the sake of the enjoyment of wearing costumes instead of having the mania-like characteristics, 3) 'CosPlayer Group' who enjoy doing organized team CosPlay in order to present a performance, 4) 'J-Rock CosPlay' group that CosPlay Japanese visual rock groups and prepare to be among a professional CosPlay team, and 5) 'People related to Cospre.com' who try to make CosPlay rooted in as one of new cultures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.923-938
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• 2009

Since the end of 1960s, an era of internationalization, Interculturalism has been reflected in intercultural plays which borrow concepts of foreign-cultural aesthetics for the performance and create a new stage language. Among many writers and performers, Oh, Tae-seok created his own unique aesthetic performances through experimental and avant-garde methodologies connected with various areas of art. His plays are worth studying since they suggest us a point of view which helps us to get out of the ordinary, fixed thought and try to see variety of reality. Therefore, our study categorized Oh, Tae-seok's play into four areas according to grotesquery interculturalism : Evil sprit, Abhorrence, Exaggeration and distort, and Heterogeneity. Based on this category, we analyzed plastic artistic characteristics of his plays' stage costume, for example, shapes, materials, and color, and tried to enhance the aesthetic value of his plays. We made a conclusion that the play showed grotesquery features in stage costume, which represented death, tragedy, evil sprit of human negligence, surprising and grotesquery abhorrence by deformity of the body, exaggeration and distortion, ridiculousness, and heterogeneity, the mixture of abnormality and unstableness. Our study could help produce adequate stage costume matching the features of the performance, and be the cornerstone of grotesquery aesthetic interculturalism study reflected in stage costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.43-56
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the phenomenon of 'play' in contemporary fashion creation from an interactive point of view and to analyze cases in the contemporary fashion design creation process. The research method was a combined literature review and a case study. As a result of the research, we have derived the creations of interactive fashion design from the viewpoint can be categorized as 'play as creativity', 'mimesis', and 'deviance'. First, creativity can be seen in DIY products, customized products, and clothing that reflects the consumer's way of wearing. By actively intervening in the products and expressing their creativity in the product, it can be considered as a DIY creation. Second, mimesis in the creation of a fashion design that occurs when consumers imitate the designs of the famous fashion designers. Often similarity and difference are generated, while sometimes objects are newly constructed. Third, deviance means that an item is reborn with a completely different intention from the original shape and function by the intervention of the 'hacker' consumer. For example, the logo and the design of a luxury brand are transformed to satirize its legitimacy. In this paper, we analyzed the cases of fashion design creation as an interactive play and investigated their characteristics and tendencies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.28-46
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• 2015

The aim of this research is to classify the concept expressed in the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play, and supplement logic, which is process of the changeability of fashion style. The specific research questions are as follows: first question deals with the relationship between changeability and la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images, and how la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images are divided by each phase and how their circumduction play is proceeded. The second question is about the important features of the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and the method of la diff${\acute{e}}$rance play. The last topic of this study covers the supplement logic and the condition, and how supplement logic has been applied in the process of changeability of fashion style. This paper deploys a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play is the root of power, which is controlling the changeability of fashion style, and the objective of the play is to outline new la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images through spatialization of time. In addition, supplement logicis the method of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and the purpose of the logic is to harmonize 'ultimate la diff${\acute{e}}$rant image', which is the phenomenological construction stratum in the state of sub-conscious changeability, and 'immediate la diff${\acute{e}}$rant image', which is the structural construction level stratum in the state of external changeability. This research proves that the intrinsic attribute of changeability is contained the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and supplement logic.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.31
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• pp.35-64
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• 2013

This thesis seeks to compare China's Jing-ju and Japan's Kabuki for their common aspects and differences and examine how they are performed on the stage. Jing-ju is often called as Beijing Opera to refer to a musical play completed during the mid-Ching era and developed around Beijing. Jing-ju is composite arts of music, dance and play which are remarkable in its strict patterns in move along with luxurious costume and heavy make-up. Kabuki which was developed during the Edo-period, is expressional arts also structured with music, dance and play coupled with extravagant costume as well as even more strictly controlled move and emphasis on the beauty of form. The two plays seem very similar to each other in their time setting to gain popularity or features of play. It may look obvious that Jing-ju which had developed earlier than Kabuki, affected the latter's formation. However, general social practices or cultural trends in China and Japan at the time of their development also influenced literature and arts thus affecting play contents and performance expressions. Although the two plays have similar stage structure, they developed in different ways with detailed differences and actors' performance on the stage, way of using a stage and other ways of directing play are largely distinctive from each other. If a play's primary goal is to gain recognition of audience and draw their positive response, the relationship between play and stage becomes essential. With this understanding, this thesis aims to identify where such similarities and differences between the two plays are from by comparing historical background, stage structural development and directing manner development at a basic level.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.55-71
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to identify a basic meaning of humor from the costume expressing cartoon image, to grasp the status of contemporary costume, and also to supply people with a database related to the sphere of costume design. This was done by analyzing and examining humor of the costume expressing cartoon image in post-industrial society. Consequently, the result of this study was summarized as follows; First, humor by parody of Pop Art is recognized as humorous expression that repulsed the main current culture and post-industrial society phenomenon. Second, humor by quotation tends to appear through cartoon character. Costume which quote cartoon character is against Kidult tastes and the pre-existing authoritative prejudices in post-industrial society. Third, humor by bricolage, making bricolage with silhouette, color, pattern item, is recognized as new creation of humor In other words, it is regarded as enlargement of new esthetic consciousness and humor about instrumented gender in post-industrial society. Lastly, humor by deformation expressed itself in deformation of body image of character and cloth silhouette by cartoon image. Deformation of cloth silhouette by cartoon image, being not conscious pre-existing concept of harmony of human and costume, is recognized as humor which have characteristic of play with introduction of new silhouette. In addition to, the result of this study showed that humor expressed in cartoon image of costume has been limited to the works of few designers because of characteristics of fashion designers who made use of popularity as subjects of the works and internal meanings which were related to the characteristics of post-industrial society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

This study examines the social meaning of the CosPlay, the growth potential of CosPlay culture and its effect on the related industry through the perspectives and language of the youths who enjoy CosPlay, based on the ethnographic research. Also, this study presents a comparative description of Korea and Japan CosPlay culture by the ethnographic methodology whose purpose is to define relationship of cause and effect with phenomenon. For further step, this study plans to emphasize the need to link culture, clothes and related industry in order to create a cultural environment where diversity co-exists. CosPlay is the mania culture of Japan that emulated the Halloween party of the West and that developed the party into a unique form. In Korea, this practice was accepted for the first time among a handful of youths, starting from the 1990s, after which, it was introduced to the masses while holding CosPlay related events. While CosPlay is succeeded as an industry in Japan, CosPlay in Korea is considered childish play due to the Korean culture of considering cartoon as a childish and low class genre which is enjoyed by youths. CosPlay in Korea faces the following changes: aging of the members who comprised the CosPlay culture at the initial stage; population increase, centered on middle and high school students; interest of the government and the businesses that wish to produce economic wealth by organizing CosPlay events into events for youths; and changes in the environment that comprised the surrounding of the CosPlay culture. CosPlay is an honest play that demonstrates one's effort on the stage through performance. Moreover, most of the middle and high school students who comprise the CosPlay culture demonstrate similar characteristics as mania type of people when it came to the reason that they enjoy CosPlay. However, they did not consider CosPlay culture as an important aspect of their lives. Instead, most of them said that they participate to relieve stress. Thus, they have the potential to move onto another form of youth culture that may appear more attractive to them. To them, it is not the CosPlay culture that is important, but the fact that CosPlay provides a forum where they can freely engage in play.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.336-344
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• 2010

Stage costumes are characterized by the importance as a medium of total visual expression on a synthetic art and need to be designed more effectively. This study followed the stage costumes of the play 'Long long time ago whuo-ee whuoee' which participated in the China-Japan-Korea University Theatre Festival. By consisting of the framework of a Korean story that tells and expands the visual expression province by the access method of a producer, the unique costume in the play was created by the dyeing of the traditional hangi. First, the use of hanji in theater represents originality and a fresh variation with the formative beauty of stage costumes in accordance with hanji that conforms to the recreation of tradition. Second, the dip dyeing technique made it possible to express colors limitlessly and the airbrush dyeing technique along with dyeing twice could account for the weak points of the color. As a result, the color brought effect as expected. Third, the weak points were supported by a Jumchi technique that created the fibroid material tangled with stronger adhesion in the creation of a hangi costume. In addition, dyed hangi was attached to the outer fabric. It allowed the costume to have a unique texture that was both soft and tough. This enforced the visualization of the costume and durability to prevent possible damage by the performers. Forth, pieces of hanji were attached to the damaged parts of the costume after re-visiting the dress rehearsal. As a result, the stage costumes represented the shabby clothes that express the social class of the characters. A new understanding of the excellence of traditional hanji was found and confirmed the possibility of it as a material for stage costumes through the study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.277-294
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine characteristics of symbolism as an important trend of the end of centuries, by comparing the symbolic characteristics from two periods, modern(1880∼1910s) and comtemporary(1990s), based on the typical characteristics of symbolic art by Robert R. Delevoy. Af for the study method, the contents analysis is adopted to present an objective data analysis and interpretation accompanied by theoretical approach through literature survey. Delevoy classifies symbolism into three categories such as mysticism, eroticism, and decorativeness. This study is developed based on the Delevoy's three categories. symbolistic costume reflecting systems of the society and the phases of the times, became to contain all aspects of functional, symbolic, and practical. Especially, the costume I contemporary era adopted a new approach, philosophical factors controling human's sensibility, and a sincere and analytical attitude on progress of technology. This study provide the fact that costume is a part to create aesthetic of self-expression as a field of formative art. Contemporary costume allows vital power for daily life of human by pursuing new aesthetic value, and it expresses inner world of human and moves on future-oriented to regain humanity. The symbolistic characteristics will continue to influence varous aspects of our society and play a main role in shaping the purpose of fashion design in the 21st century.