• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• 복식
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• 제42권
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• pp.173-186
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• 1999

the object of this thesis is to find out the Chosun Dynasty's Fabrics of 17th century which founded in the buddhist statutes. The total 43 pieces of fabrics can be classified chronologically as follows; 14 pieces in the year of 1641, 18 pieces of 1679, and 12 pieces of 1701, These fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 25 plain weaved 8 twill weaved and 5 pieces of satine weaved. I could confirmed the width of fabrics are 38cm and 38.5cm through these fabrics. Because of the fabrics were composed of mainly plain weaved silk Chu. There weren't many fabrics with motif. The fabrics within the buddhist statues have their own meaning.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.1-38
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• 2022

Many knotted carpets from western China and Central Asia from 700 BCE to 700 CE demonstrate strong resemblances to the Assyrian-Persian stone reliefs and Hellenistic-Romanmosaics. Egypt reveals the earliest samples in plain linen fiber and carpets with colorful designs in the mural paintings. The Egyptian wall decoration in faience shows the motifs of waterlily in two variations in the design, both of which appear in the Assyrian floor thresholds designs. The same waterlily or four-petal design in the Egyptian and Assyrian stonework also appear in the Pazyryk knotted carpet in the same manner. The Assyrian thresholds show a composition with a central area and borders in a square or rectangular overall design, which again parallels the Pazyryk carpet. The ideas of composition and motifs commonly seen in the Hellenistic and Roman mosaics appear in the carpets of Central Asia and western China. The similarities between the stone mosaic works and carpets demonstrate clearly that the remote places and peoples in ancient times learned from, and exchanged with, each other the ideas and artistic styles, and integrated to create some local artistic traditions, thanks to the roles the easy-to-carry textiles played throughout the Silk Road. The carpets played their roles: as practical material for daily use, and as carrier of cultural information through their designs.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This study aims at the improvement of sewing function through understandings of dynamic property about the sewing methods and the thread material selection in knitwear. The tensile strength and shear of KES-FB and the Instron were measured for the analysis of the mechanical properties. The knit cloth was structured In the plain stitch, $1\times1$ rib stitch and $2\times1$ rib stitch with the combination of wool and cotton. With regard to the sewing method, intralooping and interlacing were applied. For thread materials, polyester, cotton, wool and silk were used. Since silk has the lowest extension and similar values regardless of its construction in intralooping, it is available knit apparel with uniform elastic recoverv. It also has small shearing resistance. It can be used in apparel which needs big mobility, but it causes rutting problem. Therefore, it is suitable to use intralooping. When the same sewing yarn and textile are use, it can lower shearing resistance and extension in intralooping, Since wool needs a lot of extension energy and it can be cut, intralooping is more suitable than interlacing in sewing of wool. In interlacing using polyester, extension and shearing resistance are high. Therefore, it is suitable for knit sewing with high massing. Silk is not suitable for interlacing since it can be rut. Even though knit materials are different, the RT values of polyester and cotton are similar in same construction. Therefore, they can be substituted each other considering resilience after sewing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.89-94
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• 1977

This is a study of the history and the changes of methods of making shroud from Koryo up to present. Korea is Known as a country of East with its courtious people, and naturally the people observed the proprieties, especially on the funeral, in performing religious services and worshiping of the ancestors. Since Koryo and Yi Dynasty, because of the complexcity of the formalities under the confucianism, the shroud also became very complex. The process of making shroud was various according to the classes and economical circumstances. They made shroud of fine textured hemp cloth or silk, selecting one of 'good days' in leap year. As they believed the shroud should be rotten as soon as possible, fine textured hemp cloth was common as for the material. The color of the shroud was either plain or colored as the casual wears. In sewing shroud, the thread shouldn't be knotted nor connected in each seam and the strips should not be even numbered. These methods of making shroud have been changed variously and symplified according to the economical circumstances up to now.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.129-139
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• 2000

The Chonmachong (Tumulus No. 155 in Whangnam-dong, Kyungju, Korea), which was unearthed in 1973, is an ancient tomb built in the Shilla Era between the 5th∼6th centuries by the method of Juk-suk-mok-gwak. With the excavation of this tomb more than 11,500 articles of luxurious and splendid relics including gold and silver ornaments, weaponry and horse gears were obtained. Among the excavated articles, the saddle flap with a drawing of flying horse on it is the first relic of its kind from the Shilla Era. and 'Chonma'(a flying horse), the name of the tomb. was named after this drawing. The saddle flap is highly valuable in that it provides the idea of how goad the people of Shilla were at drawing. Although a lot of researches have been released about the relics from the Chonmachong, this study is to focus on the fabrics from the excavation, all of which are in the Kyongiu Museum's collection. The findings of this study are as follows : 1 The subject of this study is mainly on the fabrics used in horse gears, the pieces of cloth that were used to spread on a saddle or to underlay beneath a saddle. As the Shilla Dynasty tried to restrict excessive ornamentation on horses and it is assumed that the fabrics used are different. according to the social status. 2. The subject articles are four plain fabrics, three fabrics of combined -construction and one braid, the warp-faced compound woven silks of combined-construction was found for the first tinge in Korea, and is the typical quality sick with patterns woven with dyed threads in different colors. 3. It is ascertained by the Chonmachong excavation that polychrome woven silk was used not only for the clothes of the upper classes but also for the ornaments of their horses in the Era of the Three Kingdoms.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.19-30
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the tendency of Korean traditional textile studies to review the studies critically and to suggest the new directions. To do this, this study included 164 articles of Korean traditional textile studies published in five Korean major journals from the first issue to the 2009. The identified 164 articles were categorized and analyzed by five areas : study subject, study content, study method, the tendency through times and journals publishing Korea traditional textile articles. The results were as follows. First, in the study subject, the ratio of traditional motifs study was the highest in any other study subject and an actual textile pattern study and society culture historic study were also favored. And, the ratio of foreign textile study was the lowest in any other study subject. Second, in the fiber type of study content, the ratio of silk fiber was the highest in any other fiber type. Hemp, ramie and cotton fiber were followed by silk fiber. Also, the ratio of wool fiber was lowest in any other fiber type. In the weaving type, ratio of plain weave was the highest in any other weaving type. In the times of study, the ratio of the Joseon Dynasty period was the highest in any other times of study. Third, in the study method, the ratio of an actual proof study method was higher than that of literature study method. In the tendency of times, there were society culture historic studies from the time publishing the first edition in each journal, the ratio of an actual textile pattern study, traditional motif study and preservation science study has increased since the 2000. Fourth, in the characteristics of journals, Journal of Korean Society of Costume has published the most articles in any other journal publishing Korea traditional textile study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.73-84
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• 2015

Analysis of design preference to Korean and Chinese casual style were made targeting Chinese female students in Korea. The following conclusion was derived from the result of final 300-copy survey data, using SPSS 18.0 program. The data were analyzed by frequency, t-test, chi-squre independence test, ANOVA and Scheffe test. Firstly, when comparing change of design preference before the stay in Korea with after the stay in Korea, the biggest change in their preference was character casual style, while the least change was easy casual wear. In terms of duration of stay in Korea, the biggest change was from the group of over 3 years, and in the order of the group of 1-3years, and then lastly less than 1 year, which suggests that the longer the duration of stay, the bigger the change. When comparing preferred clothing color before the stay in Korea with after the stay in Korea, both before and after the stay in Korea had the highest preference for achromatic colors. The frequency of change was mostly from achromatic color to other colors. In the preferred clothing pattern, 'plain' was their favorite one before the stay in Korea, while it turned to 'nature pattern' after the stay in Korea, followed by 'plain' one. In the textiles, the most preferred one was 'cotton', before and after the stay in Korea. However, their preference for cotton was lower after their stay in Korea than before the stay in Korea, and instead there was more preference for 'silk', 'synthetic fiber', and 'other' sources.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.13-26
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the preference of design and body shape for korean baby-boom generation women. For this study, in-depth interviews were carried out to 11 women who were born in 1955~1963. They are called korean baby-boom generation. The results were as follows; 1) Korean baby-boom generation women care to their body shape, and they make much of the balance of body, not just looking slim. 2) Korean baby-boom generation women become more interested in their clothing, and they want to look with casual image than elegant image before. But overweight women preferred elegant image. 3) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer mix-match style for everyday clothes, but they prefer suit-set for formal wear. 4) When Korean baby-boom generation women choose of jacket or coat color, they consider more of their body-shape than season color. 5) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer plain style and jacquard with metal yarn. 6) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer out-door cloth fabric, at special time, they choose pure wool and pure silk. At ordinary time, they like more comfortable fabric like cotton mixed spandex or wool mixed spandex blends.