• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.28-41
• /
• 2015

Properties of textile fabrics influence the appearance, aesthetics, and performance of garment. Drape and related properties of fabrics affect profoundly the static and dynamic appearance during wearer's movement. The three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Two drape test methods, conventional Cusick drape test, and in-built drape tester, based on a depth camera, are compared. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon are investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. Drape coefficient values of fabric specimens are compared based on the final drape images, together with the intermediate 3D drape images of the specimens during elevation process of the drape tester equipped with a stepper motor system. The correlation coefficient between the data based on the two methods is reasonably high. Another advantage from the depth camera system is that it allows further analysis of three-dimensional information regarding the fabric drape shape, including the shape of nodes or crest and trough.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 2011

This study investigates the physical properties and manufacturing method of shape memory fabric for emotional garment made by polypropylene. For this purpose, polypropylene(PP) POY and SDY were texturized using low temperature and constant length heat treatment texturing technologies, respectively. The shape memory fabrics made using these texturized PP yarns were woven with two kinds of PET and PTT shape memory yarns on the air-jet loom and the various physical properties of four kinds of shape memory fabrics were measured and discussed. The tenacity and breaking strain of PP texturized yarns treated by low temperature and constant length heat treatment showed high weaving efficiency and the wet thermal shrinkage of PP textured yarns was shown less than 1.5%, dry thermal shrinkage was ranged between 3% and 5%, which means thermal stability compared to the PTT textured yarn with high thermal shrinkage, 5~8%. The shape memory characteristics of PP shape memory fabrics measured by Toray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric. The heat keeping property of the PP shape memory fabric showed 56% higher value than that of PTT shape memory fabric. The water repellency of PP shape memory fabric measured by spray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric treated with water repellent agent. Especially, shape memory properties of PP shape memory fabric measured by 3-D image and camera measurement methods showed similar characteristics to the PTT shape memory fabric.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2001.08a
• /
• pp.34-36
• /
• 2001

Chirimen (silk crepe) has been one of Japan's most distinctive textiles since times and has gained a reputation worldwide as the supreme example of Japanese costume. It is because of its distinctive quality and features, transcending the history, lacation and lacal of the people who wear this form of clothing, that chirimen has continued to highly valued over a long historical period. There is a wide range of literature on the subject of chirimen written from the standpoints of introducing the various types of material, discussing its history, and looking at the origins of the textile unions. However, most such writings are little more than fragmentary attempts to describe these matters from an empirical and publicity-oriented position. Very little serious research has ever been published in this area. In the present study I examine the features of chirimen. I began by directly interviewing kimono wholesalers, kimono stores and Western-style clothing stores on the subject of chirimen in order to establish a clear image of this fabric. I then went on to examine the subject experimentally in terms of the physical properties of the fabric in connection with the features of this image. In the study of the physical properties of the material, I selected habutae as a silk fabric to offer comparisons with chirimen. Habutae is used frequently together with chirimen in garments such as semi-formal visiting kimono (homongi), kimono in non-color fabric (ironashiji), mouming kimono (mofuku), broad-sleeved kimono (tomesode and furisode), and undergarments such ad juban.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.153-159
• /
• 2014

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.37-52
• /
• 2006

This study was designed to analyze the three-dimensional shapes of Hanbok Chima made with various fabrics and to clarify the relationship between fabric properties as well as the objective and subjective evaluations of the 3D shape. For 3D shape data, a dress form (9A2 (N; nude)) was scanned with eight Chima garments made with the same number of fabrics. The scanner used was a non-contact three-dimensional human body measuring system belonging to Bunka Women's University in Japan. Data concerning the objective evaluation of the 3D shape was obtained from the measurements of the vertical and horizontal sections: those for subjective evaluation were through the sensory test after exposure to photographs from a front and side view. Four fabric factors were extracted from fabric physical properties: softness, extension, thickness of threads, and weight of fabric. Such factors as expansion (volume), sag of rear train, shape of nodes were influential in explaining the 3D shape of Hanbok Chima. From the analysis of the 3D shape, it can be deduced that with the constituent fabric stiffer, lighter, and less stretchable, the more expanded the 3D shape appeared to be. Multiple regression results showed that vertical shape factors have a greater effect on the evaluation of the 3D shape. It also implies that dependent variables of this study such as the subjective evaluation and 3D shape can be derived from regression equations on independent variables as fabric property factors or 3D shape factors. These results can enable the manufacturers to predict the 3D shape of the garment as well as the human subjective assessment to improve the efficacy of production. The investigation method proposed in this study can also be applicable to other garment items.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.31-40
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.10 no.2
• /
• pp.1-7
• /
• 1998

In this study, PET fabric was hydrolyzed with NaOH using the Tank m/c and Liquor-flow m/c to determine the alkali hydrolysis properties of PET fabrics. The results were as follows ： The weft density and tensile strength of PET fabrics hydrolyzed with Liquor-flow m/c were higher than those hydrolyzed with Tank m/c in case of less than 10％ of weight loss. However, above 10％ of weight loss, reverse phenomenon was showed. K/S value of hydrolyzed PET with Liquor-flow m/c was higher than that with Tank m/c above 10％ of weight loss. It was observed that the micropores of PET surface were collapsed due to physical force(abrasion and collision) during hydrolysis. Bending rigidity of hydrolyzed PET fabric was about 32％ and 40％ of bending rigidity of warp and weft direction of untreated fabric at 7％ of weight loss, respectively. Above 7％ of weight loss, decrease rate was decreased.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.7 no.6
• /
• pp.50-56
• /
• 2003

Chitosan has been widely applied to the products in various industries such as textile fabrics, apparels, foods, medical area, etc. Cochineal has long been employed as one of natural dyestuffs in the textile industry. The effect of chitosan pre-treatment on the low-stress physical and mechanical properties of cochineal-dyed fabrics including cotton, silk, nylon and polyester fabrics was investigated in this study. The chitosan treatment and mordanting of the fabrics changed the bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of the fabrics. In cotton fabric specimens, while the increase of B(bending rigidity) of cotton is relatively high, the increase of G(shear rigidity) of cotton is relatively low. In nylon and PET fabric specimens, while the increase tendency of B is relatively low, that of G is high compared to the corresponding cotton fabrics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2008.04a
• /
• pp.37-39
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to improve the defects of DPP fabric by heat setting and to describe the change of physical properties of DPP fabrics. The thermosetting was carried out in autoclave from 100 to 140$^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 10min.. In this study, we investigated the effect of the thermosetting temperatures on the structural, thermal, mechanical properties and dyeability of DPP fabrics. The melting peak of multi peak changed to single peak with an increased thermosetting temperatures. The melting energy(J/g), the tensile strength and elongation were found to increase with increasing temperature of heat setting. The diffraction peak at Bragg angle(2${\theta}$) about 13.8$^{\circ}$ were very strong, and diffraction intensity, d-spacing and half-width decreased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. On the other hand, the dyeability(K/S) and crease recovery decreased with an increasing thermosetting temperatures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.12 s.159
• /
• pp.1683-1689
• /
• 2006

Precedent researches on lyocell are mostly on lyocell structure, characteristics, physical properties by finishing and dyeability, and the like; there are little cases of researches on interlining for lyocell clothes production. To serve as a base information helpful to select fusible interlining and improve the efficiency of sewing process considering the characteristics of lyocell, this study performed t-est, F-test toward to the difference in the appearance-related properties and the mechanical properties of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric in accordance with the characteristics of fusible interlining and lyocell face fabric. This study reached following conclusions. Drapability and Crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric are influenced by the structure of fusible interlining; stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric, by the structure of fusible interlining and the yam number of lyocell face fabric. WT is influenced by the mixture rate and yam number of lyocell face fabric. RT is influenced by the yam number of lyocell face fabric; G, 2HG, 2HG5, by the structure(woven and non-woven) of fusible interlining; B, HB, by the weight, structure(woven and non-woven) of fusible interlining, and yam number of lyocell face fabric; WC, by the weight, structure of fusible interlining; RC, by the structure of fusible interlining; thickness, by the weight of fusible interlining and the yarn number of lyocell face fabric; weight, by mixture rate and yam number of lyocell face fabric.