• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.989-996
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.852-862
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• 2008

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.65-77
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• 2024

This study aimed to propose effective ways to integrate CLO into educational settings by conducting a comparative analysis of pattern functions in YUKA and CLO, specifically focusing on skirt prototypes and variations. CLO, being a 3D virtual sample CAD tool, is mainly used in education to facilitate the creation of 3D virtual clothing. In order to explore the applicability of CLO's pattern functions in pattern education, CAD education experts were asked to produce two types of skirt prototypes and two skirt variations. Subsequently, in-depth interviews were conducted. In addition, the skirt pattern creation process was recorded on video and used for comparative analysis of YUKA and CLO pattern functions. The comparison revealed that CLO provides the pattern tools necessary for drafting skirt prototypes. The learning curve for acquiring the skills necessary for drafting and transforming skirt prototypes was found to be relatively shorter for CLO compared to YUKA. In addition, due to CLO's surface-based pattern drawing method, it is difficult to move or copy only specific parts of the outline, and there are some limitations in drawing right angle lines. In the pattern transformation process, CLO's preview function proved to be advantageous, and it was highly rated on user convenience due to the intuitive UI. Thus, CLO shows promise for pattern drafting education and is deemed to have high scalability as it is directly linked to 3D virtual clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.93-104
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• 1994

Nowadays computer technology is being applied in various areas of apparel design. In particular, since the task of pattern making is to be performed by a set of predefined drawing rules, the effect of computer application in pattern making will be significant, There have been a large number of studies on pattern making program. For instance, the previous studies have developed computer programs for pattern making of women's wear, men's wear, children's wear, Han-Bok, etc. Most of them have focused on the development of computer program for a particular kind of apparel only and, however, have disregarded the feasibility of developing a multi-purposed computer program so that is just can be modified to adopt for various styles. For example, by widening the hem-wide of the basic H-Line skirt and then connecting its waist line and widened hem-wide, we can draw the A-Line skirt. Therefore, we have developed a program which can make a pattern for the basic skirt and can mae, with a slight change of he program, other patterns for various style as well. The objective of this paper is to identify and organize modules which will be used for developing a general pattern making computer system. This general pattern making system is a computer program by which we can draw a variety of apparel styles. This system is restricted to skirt pattern making only. there presentation scheme used in organizing these modules is an AND-OR tree, the one being often used in representing a complex problem in artificial intelligence domain.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.112-129
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• 1997

This research, focused on the curved of the lower body, designated abdomen and hip gradient, crotch depth and crotch width the factors for which are able to influence on the appearence and the function of Divided Skirt and analized the changes when that were applied to a real pattern, and so the purpose of this research is to show the basic documents needed to design a Divided Skirt pattern fitting with the wear purpose and usage. The following are the results of this research. 1. The abdomen and hip gradient turned out as the most influential factor on the appearance and the function of Divided Skirt. The pattern of which the abdomen and hip gradient was designated as vertical zero degree, showed an excellent appearance and in case of function, the pattern of which thw angle of the abdomen and hip gradient of human body type was applied to itself without a particular designation turned out excellent. 2. In case of crotch depth, the pattern which had crotch depth＋2㎝, had a better appearance but influced nothing on function. 3. The factor of crotch width didn\`t have any influence on the appearance and function of Divided Skirt. 4. Referring to the results of the above, the Divided Skirt pattern of which the appearance and the function turned excellent, had the angle of abdomen gradient 4 degrees, the angle abdomen gradient 4 degrees, the angle of hip gradient/2+2.5 degrees, crotch depth+2㎝ and crotch width following human body type. In case of Divied Skirt worn when going out, the pattern which had the angle of abdomen and hip gradient vertical zero degree, crotch depth+2㎝ and crotch width following human body type, turned out suitable. Also, the suitable pattern of Divided Skirt for working had the abdomen and hip gradient following human body type, crotch depth+2㎝ and covering girth diameter/2±1㎝.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.145-158
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was develop a skirt pattern drafting method for pregnant women on the basis of their physical characteristics. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. One hundred and one women who were 7,8 or 9 months pregnant were measured on 29 items. The result was computed to obtain descriptive statistics and correlation coefficients between each items. 2. Two new skirt patterns were developed based on the data analysis. 3. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new patterns for pregnant women by comparing them with the Japanese MOONHWA method skirt pattern for pregnant women. Sensory evaluation for appearance: According to the result of Mann-Whitney test among the three skills the skirt A was most satisfactory, and the next was the skirt B followed by Japanese MOONHWA method Skirt. Sensory evaluation for comfort; The result of Mann-Whitney test showed that the skirt B was comfortable, and the next was the shirt A followed by Japanese MOONHWA method skirt.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.392-403
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to fat body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. For this study, three college students were selected according to the fat body types; According to fat body types, 15 experimental skirt which were different each other in terms of the amount of ease on wait and hip, were made for the appearance test and wearing satisfaction test. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+2cm and W+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2cm and H+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+2cm, H+2cm for fat body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows. pattern reduction ratio 0∼2.4% of waist, 1.9∼3.8% of hip for fat body type, were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows. For fat body type, W+2cm, W+0cm for waist and H+2cm, H+0cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for fat body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.652-663
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to the body types to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0cm and W - lcm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+0cm and H-2cm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as fDllows. W+Ocm, H+Ocm for thin body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.3 ∼ 5.0% of waist, 4.8 ∼7.2% of hip for thin body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For thin body type, W+0cm, W - lcm for waist and H+0cm, H-2cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for thin body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.271-285
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new basic skirt pattern for 4 lower body types of Plus-sized women. To reduce a time and economic loss about putting it on, This study applied a 3D sample module in the course to develop a basic skirt pattern which is fit, functional and beautiful. A data analysis used the SPSS 11.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, This study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. To reflect a feature according to an abdomen projection and hip projection, we added the maximum hip circumference to the waist circumference and hip circumference for necessary for a skirt draft item. The front hip circumference sets to the H/4+1cm(ease)+D/4. The back hip circumference set to the H/4+0.5cm(ease)+D/4. The D is the hip circumference in the maximum hip circumference to subtract. The front waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)+0.5cm(A front and back's difference)+D/4. The back waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)-0.5cm(A front and back's difference)-D/4. Compare with 4 lower body types of Plus-sized Women, A type 2 and type 4 abdomen projections are bigger. We raised a front waistline of skirt pattern to a 0.3cm upside, and take about 1.3cm down the skirt length from a developed skirt pattern. Consequently, the appearance of a front skirt length was improved with a side skirt length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360$^{\circ}$, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.