• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권10호
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• pp.97-109
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• 2001

It is thought that a composition of trousers is related to fabrics with single breadth. Therefore, trousers are designed with pattern using this fabrics with single breadth. However, in the old pattern of trousers, the breadth of 33cm-35cm was not considered in designing patterns. In this context, deciding which pattern design is better is not easy as there are a variety of estimation methods. So in this study, standardization of drafting is pursued by an objective pattern design. For this, a base angle of the trouser closely relating to a form and function was measured and using the height and the base angle, a trouser pattern design was tried. For a measurement of the base angle, 5 subject were selected. They are 25-29 year-old male graduates with fine physical standard. The base angle was measured with symphysis pubis point as a standard when subjects sat with their legs crossed, when they stood with their legs open (not forced artificially) and when they laid down with their legs open. The distance between a knee inside joint and knees was measured three times and the resultant value was used for the pattern design. For a design of trousers, the height was applied and the base angle was fixed. As a pattern drawing, using the height, a base angle and circumference of the hip, a trouser was designed. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The length formula, is height + $\frac{height}{2}$ (2) The hip girth formula is $\frac{hipgirth}{2}$ - $\frac{hipgirth}{20}$(3) A crotch angle is fixed at $72^{\circ}$. (4) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5 : 8. (5) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length is 5 : 8. (6) The ratio of the division point of front right inner leg length and left inner width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.95-110
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• 1997

According to the design method for constructing the crotch angle of traditional Korean men's trousers there are differences in from after its completion. Since there is no standardization of visual & aesthetic pattern for the construction method which is stablished by the calculation formular of waist girth hip girth pantleg end and upper outer leg length it is difficult to be used for educational use or for teaching materials. Therefore the purpose of this project according to five models in proportion to the physical standard of Korea in ages from 24 to 29 years old is to establish a design criterion and the standardization of construction methods by introduction the pant construction method of the crotch angle by converting the sitting posture length to seaming crotch center point both knees width in the Korean way of sitting. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The waist girth formular is {{{{ { w} over {4 } }}}}+{{{{ {w} over {10 } }}}}(2) The hip girth formular is {{{{ {H } over { 4} }}}}+{{{{ {H } over {5 } }}}}(3) The pantleg end formular is {{{{ {H } over {4 } }}}}(4) A crotch angle is fixed at 70 degress.(5) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5:8 (6) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length in 5:8(7) The ratio of the division point of front / right inner leg length and left inner leg width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.142-154
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• 2003

This study was conducted on the costume of the 6 minorities dwelling in Guizhou Province of China. The result of the study is summarized as follows. As Guizhou Province yields much silver, most of the minorities used silver ornaments a lot and dyed their garments by using indigo extracted from plants that grow in the area. The headdress was of style that for both men and women a long cloth is wound around a head in various ways. In some cases, women used cow's horn, pearl and silver ornaments. Most wore a short upper garment such as blouses with overlapping necks or blouses with diagonal on the front, and as a lower garment men and women wore trousers and skirts, respectively. As a way of ornament, embroidering, wax printing and weaving were commonly used, but pattern and color used in the ornament varied depending on the individual minorities.