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A study on the Kazakh, Kirgiz, Tajik tribe Costume and Textile (카자흐, 키르키즈, 타지크족의 민속복과 직물에 관한 연구)

  • Shin, In-Soo;Je, Yoon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.105-114
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    • 2001
  • The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.

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Labyrinth Seal Design for Preventing Internal Inflow of Plating Solution (도금액의 내부 유입 방지를 위한 래버린스 시일 설계)

  • Lee, Duck-Gyu;Kim, Wan-Doo
    • Tribology and Lubricants
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.256-262
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    • 2017
  • Molten zinc plating is a process in which zinc is thinly coated over a metallic or non-metallic surface. It is used in various industrial fields for corrosion resistance and decoration. During the process, a steel sheet is passed through a roll that rotates inside the molten zinc liquid in the temperature range of $460^{\circ}C$ to $680^{\circ}C$, and the plating liquid flows into the roll causing abrasion and erosion of the roll surface. This problem is known to accelerate the replacement cycle of the roll and cause considerable economic loss owing to production line stoppage. Here, we propose a mechanism that operates at high temperature and pressure with a labyrinth type seal design to resolve this problem. We theoretically investigate the flow of the plating solution inside the seal and compute the minimum rotation speed required to prevent the plating solution from entering the seal chamber. In addition, we calculate the thermal deformation of the seal during operation and display thermally deformed dimensions at high temperatures. To verify the theoretical results, we perform experiments using pilot test equipment working in the actual plating environment. The experimental results are in good agreement with theoretical results. We expect our results to contribute towards the extension of the roll's life span and thereby reduce the economic losses.

$TiO_2$-Ni inverse Catalyst for CRM Reactions with High Resistance to Coke Formation

  • Seo, Hyun-Ook;Sim, Jong-Ki;Kim, Kwang-Dae;Kim, Young-Dok;Lim, Dong-Chan
    • Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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    • 2012.02a
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    • pp.267-267
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    • 2012
  • $TiO_2$-Ni inverse catalysts were prepared using atomic layer deposition (ALD) process and catalytic $CO_2$ reforming of methane (CRM) reaction over catalysts (either bare Ni or $TiO_2$ coated-Ni particles) were performed using a continuous flow reactor at $800^{\circ}C$. $TiO_2$-Ni inverse catalyst showed higher catalytic reactivity at initial stage of CRM reactions at $800^{\circ}C$ comparing to bare Ni catalysts. Moreover, catalytic activity of $TiO_2$/Ni catalyst was kept high during 13 hrs of the CRM reactions at $800^{\circ}C$, whereas deactivation of bare Ni surface was started within 1hr under same conditions. The results of surface analysis using SEM, XPS, and Raman showed that deposition of graphitic carbon was effectively suppressed in a presence of $TiO_2$ nanoparticles on Ni surface, thereby improving catalytic reactivity and stability of $TiO_2$/Ni catalytic systems. We suggest that utilizing decoration effect of metal catalyst with oxide nanoaprticles is of great potential to develop metal-based catalysts with high stability and reactivity.

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Analysis of the Conditions and Products of Natural Dyeing Shopping Malls in Japan (일본인 천연염색전문 쇼핑몰 현황 및 상품 분석)

  • Lee, Mi-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.35 no.3
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    • pp.254-266
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    • 2011
  • This study analyzes the state and products of shopping malls that sell naturally dyed products in Japan. In this study, 37 natural dyeing shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. There are many natural dying internet shopping malls located in the areas of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Okayama. The most frequent dyes were indigo, followed by akane, persimmon, mud, vegetation, and tea. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothes, and interior decoration products. The most frequent products were adult hats, followed by towels (handkerchiefs), scarves, T-shirts, and bags. For the price of products, 3,000-4,000${\yen}$ was the highest for T-shirts, with 2,000-3,000${\yen}$ and 4,000-S,000${\yen}$ for newborn baby and child clothing, 5,000-10,000${\yen}$ for hats and bags, 3,000-4,000${\yen}$ for scarves, and 1,000-2,000${\yen}$ for towels (handkerchief). Concerning product information, most of the shopping malls offer the product size and the product explanations, but over half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product.

Structural ordering, electronic and magnetic properties of bundled $Mo_6S_9-_xI_x$ nanowires

  • Kang, Seoung-Hun;Tomanek, David;Kwon, Young-Kyun
    • Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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    • 2010.02a
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    • pp.55-55
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    • 2010
  • We use ab initio density functional theory to determine the effect of bundling on the equilibrium structure, electronic and magnetic properties of $Mo_6S_{9-x}I_x$nanowires with x = 0, 3, 4.5, 6. Each unit cell of these systems contains two $Mo_6S_{6-x}I_x$ clusters connected by S3 linkages to form an ordered linear array. Due to the bi-stability of the sulfur linkages, the total energy of the nanowires exhibits typically many minima as a function of the wire length. We find that nanowires can switch over from metallic to semiconducting by applying axial stress. Structural order is expected in bundles with x=0 and x=6, since there is no disorder in the decoration of the Mo clusters. In bundles with other stoichiometries, we expect structural disorder to occur. We find the optimum inter-wire distance to depend sensitively on the orientation of the wires, but only weakly on x. It is also found that the electronic properties of nanowires are affected strongly due to bundling of nanowires exhibiting very unusual Fermi surfaces. Furthermore, ferromagnetic behaviors are observed in selected stable and many more unstable atomic arrangements in nanowire bundles.

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Textile Trend Analysis shown in Textile Fair - Focusing on 2004/05 F/W $Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision - (의류소재전(衣類素材展)에 나타난 소재(素材) 경향(傾向) 분석(分析) - 2004/05 F/W Premiere Vision을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Sin-Hee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.7 no.5
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    • pp.17-31
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    • 2003
  • $Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision is a leading textile collection held since 1973. In this study, textiles for 2004/05 F/W season in $Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision were analyzed at the various point of view, such as general trend, sub-theme, fiber content, color trend, structure, yarn trend, pattern, texture, decoration, finishing and other technical treatment, and functionality. There were three general trends; natural/ecology, geometry, and combination. Natural color and texture were widely used over the fabric exhibited, and irregularities expressed the natural trend of textiles. Geometric patterns were used for knit as well as for woven. Geometry expressed by various methods such as weaving, knitting, printing, shearing, embossing, and etc. However, geometry shown in this season was not a clear form expressed by weaving, but a blurry, irregular form expressed by various other methods such as knitting. The combination among heterogeneous fibers, yarns, colors, images, and textures was usual, however, the harmony among them was accomplished.

Analysis of trends and meanings of fashion masks under the pandemic influence (팬데믹 영향 하의 패션 마스크 디자인 경향 및 의미 분석)

  • Li, Hongyan;Yim, Eunhyuk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.29 no.3
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    • pp.406-421
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    • 2021
  • During the COVID-19 pandemic, the obligatory wearing of masks has led to increased consumer demand and the diversification of mask design. Accordingly, it is necessary to understand the inner meaning and characteristics of masks in the pandemic situation. Therefore, the purpose of this research is to analyze the characteristics of fashionable masks and their new cultural meaning under the COVID-19 pandemic. This research is based on literature review and empirical research. Drawing on an investigation of the historical evolution of masks and their transition under the pandemic (exhibiting differences in mask culture among countries and regions), this study analyzed 54 distinctive fashion masks designed by fashion brands and influencers that appeared from January 2020 to January 2021. The characteristics of fashion masks identified under the influence of the pandemic are as follows: Message delivery on political issues and human rights; psychological defense and expression of individuality; and conspicuous display via luxurious materials and luxury brand logos; moreover, the design of the mask uses the same material, color, pattern, decoration, and other methods as clothing to achieve the overall style. Over the course of the pandemic (and even in post-pandemic lifestyle), fashion masks are becoming more diversified conveying new social and cultural meanings.

The characteristics of the Poulaine style in contemporary women shoe design (현대 여성 슈즈 디자인에 나타난 풀렌느 스타일 특성)

  • Kim, Sooji;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.1
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    • pp.1-15
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    • 2022
  • This study aims to investigate the socio-cultural background of Poulaines, which influenced fashion and contemporary shoe design. Analyzing the characteristics of the Poulaines provided basic data for different shoes. The study method utilized previous studies to explore the concept and characteristics of Poulaines. In the empirical analysis, shoe design data mainly came from collections that illustrate formative elements of contemporary shoe design from the 2010 S/S season to the 2020 S/S season. A total of 709 photo materials were collected and analyzed. The results showed that the morphological characteristics of Poulaines were exaggerated to symbolize classes of the past and sexual expression. The expanding structure was divided into the fore nose, heel, and top-line and featured a design that expressed the formative beauty of Poulaines. Additionally, the decorative desire to represent wealth and class using various materials introduced new designs into contemporary shoe designs while showing extreme decorativeness through over-trimming and color contrast. Furthermore, the heterogeneous characteristics that come from the change and harmony of the shoes' body and heel that deviated from the existing shoe shapes were classified into the dissolution of shapes and mixing and matching. Thus, they broke the monotonous silhouette of shoes and gave variety delicately.

A Study on the European Symbolist Costume -Focusing on Gustav klimt's Art World- (유럽 상징주의 복식에 관한 연구 -구스타브 클림트(Gustav Klimt)의 회화 세계를 중심으로-)

  • 양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.22
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    • pp.277-296
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    • 1994
  • The progressive artists in Austria including Gustav Klimt organized the Viennes Se-cessionist in 1897 and they took an active part in the reformation of the reformation of the applied art by accepting the Jugendstil standing for the true art. The vocabularies which characterize this group are decoration literature and the power of symbol. Klimt especially expressed these characteristics and his strong person-ality. For he created his works with the sym-bolic and friendly splendor through his highly decorative talents by accepting the enwly changed artistic situation in those days and by getting out of the naturalistic trends he was regarded as an avant-garde artist as a major figure among the Symbolist artists who revived European culture which was destroyed through the World War I. The characteristics of klimt's works was to express the various human thoughts and minds through the decorativeness and the femininity and to use the decorative elements of old Greek and Egyptian culture and Japanese art as the motives of his works, His art is to be found between the naturalistic characteristics and formalization as well as between the in-dustrial arts and the fine arts. In his many portraits he preferred women by trying to express eroticism hidden behind the human inner world. For this he demonstrated the attractiveness and the characteristics of the models by designing the illusionary and unique clothes. In general his genius was to be seen through the costume which was decorated with metals and jewels and through the characteristics of the modern costume in which the previous solid silhouette was removed and the gentle and elegant me-dium color was used. by accepting the new artistic trends in the turn of the century by fully expressing those characteristics in his creative world and by taking his theme from the eroticism through the decorativeness and the expression of women Gustav Klimt's uniquely decorative ex-pression completely realized the aesthetics of Jugendstil symbol decoration and expression which displayed not only the external appear-ance but also the inner world. Especially he created a new appearance emphasizing the costume of the characters in his works. Also through the costume he expressed his artistic consciousness and psy-chology. He showed the characteristics of the reformed costume through the medium color the simple forms and gentle silhouette. Also he tried to symbolize the passionate inner pow-er by designing the small mosaics such as the geometrical patterns whirlpool patterns and the indecent meanings all over the costume. Klmt's this kinds of attemps shows a Stil Kostume as the external outcome of the inner spiritual activities like art and it establishes a basis for the theory of costume are which deals with the concepts of costume from the artistics points of view. This tradition playing an important role in the contemporary history of costume even has been still inherited up to today.

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Ch'ing Dragon Robes (청조의 용포소고)

  • 박춘순;김재임
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.3
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    • pp.59-72
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    • 2000
  • Dragon robe was defined as a robe on which the principal design consisted of dragon. Dragon patterns have been used on princess robes during T'and Dynasty. In Sung, Dragon-figured robes seem to have an Imperial prerogative. Yuan took over the use of robes with dragons patterns as a definite institition. Ming tried to reject all Yuan innovations, the dragon robe was retained as an unofficial court costume. The Emperor's semiformal robes which at first had four dragon medallions, later had twelve along with the 12 Symbols(십이장문). As Ch'ing dragon robes were only intended fro semiformal use. The Later Ch'ing robes date from after 1719, when the Ch'ien-lung(건륭) introduced 12 Symbols on Ch'ing robes. The Ch'ien-lung laws were disobeyed, notably the ones that specified the number of claws on the dragons. THe Emperor's dragon robe, lung-p'ao, (용포) was described as bright yellow in color, having four slits and horsefoof cuffs. The basic pattern consisted of nin dragons, in addition it had 12 Symbols. The elaborate textile techniques reached their peak in Ch'ing Dynasty-with its Weaving and Dyeing Office in Peking, and this factories at Hangchow(항주), Soochow(소주), and Naking(남경) -helps to explain why the decay of the Ch'ing bureaucracy hastended the decline of dragon robes. In the Ch'ing Dynasty tow terms were used for dragon robe, depending on the number of claws on the dragons. Those with five-clawed dragons were called lung-p'ao, while those with four-clawed dragons were called mang-p'ao(망포). The Court felt compelled to take corrective meausres. It decreeed that Ninisters of State and other officials, who had been bestowed five-clawed lung dragons, must take out one claw. Finally, the sale of ranks and the attendant privilege of wearing dragon robes gradually increased during the 18 th century, reaching its height in the 19 th century, Finally, after the Taiping Rebellion, when the Imperial Treasury was depleted by the wholesale destruction of revenue-producing lands, the Chinese government came to depend on such sales as an important source of revenue and the practice became even more widespread. The ensuing mass production of dragon robes, and the necessity of conforming to the fairly rigid basic pattern established in 1759, resulted in marked deterioration of workmanship, and a comparative monotony of decoration. The patterns on the dragon robes slight changes continued to be made in the ways of representign them. The li shui (입수) portion at the base of the robe become inreasingly wider throughout the 19th century. The background became cluttered with symbols of good fortune, scattered among the clouds and waves. As a result of all this extraneous decoration, the dragons were so crowded that they had to shrink back into the small size that they had originally occupied in the medallons. Kuang-hsu(광저) was a long one, allowing time for the manufacture of numerous robes. Also, it would seem likely that Occidental museums and collections would have a considerable number of his robes, in view of the widespread looting of his palaces during the Allied occupation of Peking in 1900, and the frequent sales of Late Ch'ing imperial textiles by destitute Manchu courtiers in the '20's.

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