• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.159-173
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• 2002

The subject of the paper is for the study about the implication and the changes of design and functions in the underwear by the change of the times from late 19c until present time. Researching on documents and magazine's articles, and interviewing with women older than 60s is used for the period of previous 1960s. researching on documents, advertising, newspaper, and interviewing with the persons concerned is used for the period of after 1960s. Analysis showed periodical change in underwear is divided into that the changes of the time is divided into 1890-1950 start to Westernization in underwear, 1957-1969 Ready made in underwear. 1950-1969 Variety in underwear, 1980-1989 Fashioning, functioning in underwear, 1990-present Withdrawing from fundamental notion in underwear. The time of 1890-l950 showed the biggest change in an external form in underwear. In 1950-1969, notions of beauty in underwear ultimately swatch from Oriental sense to Western sense, In 70s, underwear achieved the early stage of fashioning. In 80s, Underwear became one of fashion item. In 90s, underwear achieved higher quality and variety. The basic notion of underwear was destroyed by exposing underwear.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.131-139
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• 2010

The ten traditional symbols of longevity are represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, water, cloud, rock, pine tree, elixir plant, tortoise, crane and deer. each subjects symbolizing longevity had used in isolation. unlike China and Japan, the ten symbols of longevity became a fixed form and was widely used in paintings, household effects and clothes in Korea. therefore, It will be a meaningful study how the ten symbols of longevity, as one of subjects in painting, changed into a pattern on clothes. The ten symbols of longevity was affected by various philosophies and religion. especially, it laid emphasis on order by Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory. the order was applied to arrange each subjects and use colors carefully. the sun colored with red and was on the upper. the pine tree colored with green meaned tree and was on the left. the earth and the mountain meaned the soil and was on the center. the rock meaned the iron and was on the right. the water meaned the water and was on the bottom. The subjects of the study were embroideries like spectacle cases, spoon cases and pouches. the scope of study was the Latter Part of the Joseon Dynasty because there are more relics in the Joseon Dynasty than any other times.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.135-148
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to research into TV makeup types focusing on Korean aesthetics with recognizing importance of Korean thought amid what the global interest pays attention to South Korea thanks to the recent influence of Hanryu(Korean wave). The following are summary and result of this study. The non-dual beauty is an integrative concept of including ambivalence on the categorical difference in sex, culture and class by transcending the extreme binary division. As this is what reflected the open thought of pursuing balance of yin and yang in Korean people, it is being shown in the form of transcendence and far-outness through TV entertainment programs. Transcendence coexisted with maintaining relative relationship beyond separation in sex. Far-outness was pursuing free sensitivity immanent in the non-separated thought of transcending the past, the present and future. This trend is being indicated similarly to a change in its paradigm from separation to convergence these days. Accordingly, even makeup was showing similarity to the recent trend with being paid attention to the makeup of focusing on identity in sex and to the makeup of being coexisted the past, the present and future with the aspect of being mixed space time. The Korean aesthetics has been feeble in its influence compared to the Oriental image of focusing on China and Japan in the meantime. Hence, this study can be said to have significance in a sense of being the first consideration that compared TV makeup types of focusing on Korean aesthetics and suggested its developmental direction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.39-47
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• 2008

Korean embroidery is the long historical industrial arts of real life and has handed down Korean sentiment up to now. Korean traditional embroidered pattern is designed to wish someone's health and luck, who uses the embroidery on the clothes and the goods in real life. Especially, the ten longevity symbols' design is represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, cloud, water, crane, rock, turtle, pine tree, the elixir of life and deer; these 10 symbols show how ancient Korean believe and wish perpetual youth. However, fiber material used embroidery relic has difficulty in preserving for long period compared to other relic descended from historical events for long time and their preserved state isn't so good owing to have been used directly in the real life. Therefore, it is essentially embossed to preserve the embroidery relic and pattern, and make DB for the data. With preservation of the pictures about the handicraft, it's necessary to preserve embroidery technique and make DB through digital imagination. Through the process, we can apply Korean embroidery image to cul-duct package and digital image related field, and it will be helpful to make the tradition popular. In this study, through the research for the embroidery technique applied pattern on the embroidery relic of ten longevity symbols, we'll establish the cultural identification of Korean embroidery image and then develop a worldwide Korean image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.97-110
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• 2006

The value that evaluates ancient Oriental civilization and culture is Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀: the view that China is only good country and the others are savages) as Confucianism. Generally, Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) includes cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) as Confucian culture is only superior, Han-centered racial Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀), and country-centered geographical Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀). As times goes on, instead racial and geographical Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) is diluted, cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) was just emphasized. The value of cutural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) is presented on dressing system and hair style becoming an issue in Confucian culture. This study intends to research how Hwa-i-ron in latter period of Chosun influenced the view of Ching men's hair style, pigtail. For this study, 5 books of Yeon-hang-rok in $17{\sim}18$ centuries are chosen, but some parts of them would be selected concerning with hairdressing and would be studied with other documents. Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) had dominated in the latter period of Chosun and had been making proprieties, then geographical and racial Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) were disappeared when Ching had been building a big cultural country, but cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) had been stronger in latter period of Chosun than before, it had been a standard in all proprieties. After all, not only did cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) become a standard of all proprieties in Chosun, but it was applied to the view of Ching men's hairstyle. So, people thought that pigtail, Ching men's hairstyle, is a custom of the savages. out of Chinese proprieties. Therefore, this cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) that Chosun is a real China through taking over Chinese proprieties might be in that age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.49-61
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• 2005

This study is to research the types and formation of the pieces for fastening the clothing in the western and oriental world from 18c to 19c. The pieces for fastening the clothing, depending on their formation, are classified as the ribbon type, the belt type, the button type, and the compound type. The ribbon type indicates fastening the clothing with the strips attached to the clothes. It is divided into the symmetry type and the asymmetry type by the looks of the ribbon alter it is tied. The belt type means fastening the clothing with a string or a belt, separated from the clothes. It is divided into the string type and the belt type. The button type is to fasten the clothing with buttons, button holes, and hooks. It is divided into the basic type, the wrapping type, and the knot type. The compound type is a mixture of two or three types out of the ribbon type, the belt type, and the button type. The pieces for fastening the clothing has aesthetic features as well as their functional characteristics. It has beautiful features like the harmonious beauty of Yin and Yen shown in the asymmetrical types, the beauty of spell wishing for health, long-life, wealth, wisdom, and so on, the beauty of decency showing the intention of refraining from exposing their body in public, the beauty of eroticism emphasizing the beauty of the human body, and the beauty of representing their social class, authority, affiliation, and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.143-157
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• 2003

본 연구의 목적은 (1) 1970년대 서양복식에 존재하는 오리엔탈리즘의 반향에 대해 정의하고, (2) 서양 복식을 통해 표출된 오리엔탈리즘의 의미를 당시 정치, 사회, 문화적인 측면과 연결하여 탐구하는데 있다. 이론적 틀로는 문화인류학 이론에서 유래된 Hamilton의 Unifying Metatheory of Clothing and Textile(1987)이 적용되었다. 연구 방법으로는 1970년부터 1979년까지 미국에서 발행된 총 142권의 VOGUE 잡지 중 80권을 분석하여, 오리엔탈리즘이 보여지는 45장의 패션사진을 자료로 추출한 후, 연도, 디자이너의 소속 지역. metatheory에 따라 분석하였다. 각 연도별로 오리엔탈리즘이 표현되는 정도와 방법은 다양하였다. 서양디자이너들은 동양의 전통의상을 거의 그대로 모방하거나 하나 이상의 국가들의 전통의상 디자인 요소들을 하나의 복식에 혼합, 표현하는 방법을 주로 보여주는 반면, 동양 디자이너는 전통의상을 포함한 자국의 다양한 문화적 요소들을 서양복식에 도입하여 표현하였다. 또한, 본 연구에서는 복식에서 보여지는 시각적인 면의 분석과 더불어, 1970년대 당시 미국의 정치. 사회, 문화전반의 상황과 복식에 있어서 오리엔탈리즘의 도입과의 영향관계가 파악되었다. 따라서, 복식을 연구함에 있어서 문화인류학적 이론과 같은 다른 분야의 이론의 적용은 복식을 새로운 측면에서 이해하는 넓은 안목과 통합적인 틀을 제공한다는 측면에서 가치가 있다고 사료된다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.501-517
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• 2011

This study investigates the concept of the body in Korean traditional costume by comparing the traditional costumes of the west and those of Korea while focusing on the relationship between the body and dress. In order to make a comparison of the traditional perspectives on the body in western and Korean costumes, this study examines the literature of history, art, medicine, philosophy as well as dress from the mid-fourteenth century to the nineteenth century pertaining to the west and those of the Joseon Dynasty Korea. Western dress assumes apparent formal structures and pursues overall harmony via the completeness of its entities, while traditional Korean dress subordinates the parts to the whole, emphasizing the organic total. Whereas the proportion of bodily structure is stressed in western traditional costume, in Korean costume the body is perceived as a whole. By revealing the body through the three dimensionalities of dress, the focus on the erogenous body parts is shifting in conventional western dress according to changes in aesthetic consciousness, which reflects the western ideas of objectiveness and self-centeredness. In traditional Korean dress, in the space between the body and dress, the emphasis is on planarization of the dress, which assumes the oriental relationship-centeredness concept.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.425-438
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• 2005

This study is to examine the types of expression and aesthetic characteristics of on-line game characters by analyzing those game characters' body and their costume that appear in various domestic on-line game sites. It is shown in this study that types of the human bodies and costume expressed through the game characters are grouped into five categories such as exposure and tightness, enlargement and exaggeration, curtailment and simplification, gender stereotype and unification. Furthermore, there are four typical aesthetic characteristics resulting from those types of expressions; First, 'grotesque' is expressed in the form of extreme enlargement and exaggeration, extreme exposure and concealment, combined images among human, animal or machine, or monstrous devilish images. Second, in an effort to express 'eroticism', bodies are directly exposed, see-through costumes are used in order to emphasize the body lines or very tight designs are used. Third, 'futuristic' characteristics are shown through geometrical shape and silhouette, machine-like details, strong artificial colors or glossy hi-tech material. Lastly, 'pastiche' is expressed with reconciliation of variety of costumes of game characters. Various opposite or heterogeneous styles are combined or harmonized each other to show pastiche, of which examples are male and female, superior culture and inferior one, rich and poor, oriental and western, human and machine, human and nature or past and future, etc.