• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권1호
• /
• pp.55-63
• /
• 2004

The dress culture of Korea and Turkey should be necessary to study in view of a similar culture of Korea and Turkey due to similarity of oriental culture. Thus, as two nation's dress is investigated, cultural characteristics and dress form of two nations are analyzed with cultural background in detail. Also, comprehension is determinated for the dress color and texture as well as dress culture. In this paper, It is investigated theoretically for the function, type, and class of dress. Also, The form of Korean Po are compared to background of Turkish dress and Sulltans' dress form. To unify a cultural propagation and dress form, technical, inductive contents analytical method as well as literature review are used in positivism. Subject is limited to the Korean Po and Sultans' dress of Turkey. As a results, as the nation's dress reflect to culture and society of the nation, Korean dress have some similarity and differences comparing Turkish dress as followings. In dress form of two nation, rectangular Gil's shape was very similar. Mu's shape was similar too. However, Sultans' dress had outside shape of caftan type and Po had full or partial wrinkles by transforming Mu. Also, Sultans' dress did not have Sup. Korean Po have side slits or back side slits and Jun-Sam but Sultans' dress had only some side slits.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제5권2호
• /
• pp.17-29
• /
• 2003

This survey paper examines general characteristics of "yellow" color, the oldest color in the history of art. Also the research aims to find meanings of the color and historical development embedded in clothing and textile both in orient and in occident where different philosophy and history developed. It is found here that the yellow symbolized both positive and negative meaning in the history of costume throughout the world. The color, however, was used to symbolize mostly positive meaning in the orient whereas not in the occident. "Yellow" color in orient used to symbolize the supremacy of the emperor, excellence and authority. The meaning of "yellow" color in the occident is two fold: from the positive viewpoint it represent god, king, wisdom, wealth and holy light, and from the negative viewpoint it represent image of betrayal and distrust, image of immorality, image of death and disease and image of jealousy and hatred. The concept of "yellow" was generalized in orient by the "Eum-Yang-O-Haeng Theory", while in occident by the Christianism. And the concepts came to hold concrete meanings and thereafter the symbol of yellow appeared.ings and thereafter the symbol of yellow appeared.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제10권1호
• /
• pp.79-97
• /
• 2008

This paper is a study on the Bisotun relief of the Achaemenid Dynasty in ancient Persia. The Bisotun relief consists of the relief and the inscriptions which was completed through 7 phases. The inscriptions describe how King Darius suppressed the rebels in Elamite, Babili and ancient Persian languages. This relief is a work during the early Darius period and it describes using the traditions of Mesopotamia in terms of the theme and structure. In terms of structural features, it follows the typical features of the Assyrian arts, the beard and the shape of hair style. On the other hand, the smooth curves used to describe the creases of the clothes and the supple body was not a typical oriental feature. It was known to be because of Greek influence from their communications. It also showed the dressings of the clans that made up the Achaemenid Dynasty through the 9 rebellions wearing clothes unique to their clan and the inscription that was inscribed with the name of the clans. The clothing and ornaments they were wearing can be divided into two groups, the clans that wore one-piece style Persian dress and clans that wore tunic jackets and trousers which is a typical dressing style of the nomads.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제18권6호
• /
• pp.57-66
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to design appropriate digital tools for the production of makeup designs. In this study, we used a three-dimensional facial avatar simulation program developed by the Electronics and Telecommunications Research. This study is based on the creation of three-dimensional CG digital art of facial avatar makeup, produced by using simulation technology. First, the actual application and the tools for digital-optimization and media features were created, leading to the research and cleanup. Second, the theoretical background was applied to the formative elements of oriental colors in the designing process. Makeup design elements include point, line, surface, color, and texture. In this study, effective makeup design was interpreted to be based on the representation of particular elements, notably the design principles of balance, proportion, rhythm, repetition, emphasis, contrast, harmony, and unity. In Asia, design is based on the visibility of red, blue, black, yellow, and white-the colors of the five elements-and the use of points, lines, and shapes. This study was recently under scrutiny in relations to digital simulation and various three-dimensional designs, in terms of how to take advantage of a wide range of applications, and how to apply the findings through media and the dissemination of basic research. This study applies the characteristics of the limited existing stereoscopic three-dimensional and digital simulation programs in order to take advantage of the empirical research, providing a basis to implement this research in a meaningful way. A follow-up study is needed to extend these findings and theoretical foundation through continuous observation and in-depth technical development and research.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제16권1호
• /
• pp.105-115
• /
• 2014

The costumes (including mask) of the first World Master series of The National Changguk Company of Korea, Achim Freyer's 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' is directly designed by Achim Freyer who was in charge of direction and stage design. The new form called Pansori opera is proposed for modernization of Korean traditional opera, it maintained the original form of music yet introduced play form of opera. The costumes and stage also promoted modernistic transformation while maintaining the original Korean form. The overall concept of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' costumes emphasizes comical effect by abstractness like childlike scribble. It expressed characteristic of characters diversely through exaggeration and expansion while maintaining original form of Hanbok, used surface of costumes as a drawing board, and created flat and geometrically transformed silhouette. The complicated characters was caricatured like everyone is doing mask play by using masks, and it still maintained sophisticated oriental color with modern application of five cardinal colors. It may seems it just mixed our traditional elements like a hint of humor, however, it could be known that it introduced various techniques in it to deliver new subject while maintaining the original form of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king'. From this study, open mind for our tradition and need for diverse attempt could be rediscovered and could also see the possibility to contribute on creating a Nation Brand of traditional performing art.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제9권4호
• /
• pp.574-591
• /
• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• 복식
• /
• 제1권
• /
• pp.131-150
• /
• 1977

The new sense of costume is controlled by silhouette. The sense of the times is sensitively reflected in silhouette. For we can perceive the transition of the times through silhouette it is significant to know what course of changes the western costume, which almost became the international costume today, had been going through. I began with the definition and condition of silhouette in this study of silhouette. I took a general survey of silhouette study-ing various kinds of silhouette and the relation between the material and silhouette. I sought the factors which causec the changes in costume and also studies the process of the changes The process of the costume changes is studied by the order of ancient times, mediaeval times, mordern ages and present days. I selected one representative silhouette of women's costume of each period. The darpery form of the ancient time's costume became the tunic form and the tunic form became the tight tunic form today. From this we can perceive that the Gothic period was the limitation of westrn costume. It means that the ancient times was the period of drapery, the midiaeval times was the period of transition from tunic into tight tunic and the modern ages is the period of development of tight tunic. In Egyptian period thin materials were used for costume which was worn in exposed style. In Greek period the costume had the drapery style. The Roman's magnificent costume resembled the Greek's. The mediaeval costume was formed in Byzantium where the northern Europe style of costume was mixed with the gay oriental costume. The Romanesque and Gothic period followed the Byzantine period completing the midiaeval costume. Tight tunic is developed in modern ages. Italian fashion of tight tunic was the first fashion of the modern ages. Germanic and spanish fashion came after it. As Baroque period opened the French royal costume became magnificent and added Brition fashish to it. With the commencement of the modern ages the royal fashion came to an end. Modernages became peaple's period and the costume was simplified. After the First world wav designers and fashion books appeared with the development of technology. Thus the period of fashion industry came. For the designers in 20th country competed to create new designs, the fashion was changed year by year. The simplicity and practicality are not ignored in design, arid the designers added more atristic sense to dresses.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제17권3호
• /
• pp.407-423
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.128-138
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to explore the characteristics and recent trends of Korean herbal medicine cosmetics brand logos and to shed light on the identities of herbal medicine cosmetics in Korea. Ultimately this study aims to seek ways to develop strategic global brands distinguished from other brands, and providing the basic data for such development. In order to investigate the characteristics of brand logos, the researcher of this study chose 11 Korean Herbal Medicine Cosmetics Brands marketed today and collected information related to the brands from their websites. The visual characteristics of the logos currently used by Korean herbal medicine cosmetics can be summarized as follows. Most brand logos include marks consisting of Chinese letters written in calligraphy styles to represent the brand information of'Korean herbal medicine.' As for colors, most brands use mostly black and gold to present luxurious images, or convey strong impressions through stark contrast between black, red and white, hoping to distinguish themselves from other cosmetic products. An analysis of the linguistic characteristics of herbal medicine cosmetics in South Korea revealed that most brands use associative and freestanding brand names which suggest that the user's appearance will improve by using the products they represent. Using such names that convey oriental purity and mysterious meanings, trying to capture the deepest beauty with the best quality, the brands construct brand images that are luxurious and high-class. Most of the brands currently used by Korean herbal medicine cosmetics employ components that emphasize the functional aspect of Korean herbal medicine cosmetics. To secure the status of world-class brands, however, it is imperative to conduct research on brand logos capable of establishing identities distinguished from others.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제27권1호
• /
• pp.61-76
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study was to derive exotic products handled by Bon Marche department store, examine characteristics, and reveal the meaning of exotic taste in the 19th century. The research method is literature research centered on original materials of the time, such as old literature related to department stores, and films, newspapers, magazines, and periodicals as well as books and papers. Commercial catalogs and Agenda-Buvard published by Bon Marché were used as visual materials. Results are as follows. Exotic tastes of products of the Bon Marche department store in the late 19th century showed an oriental style centered on Persia, India, China, and Japan. Products from various regions such as Turkey, Spain, Algeria, Tunisia, England, Italy, and Russia were also accepted. These exotic tastes had the following contributions and meanings. First, they expanded items and product development and activated domestic industry through production of imitations and replicas. Second, before the advent of department stores, foreign items that came to Europe were exclusive properties of a few privileged classes. However, in the late 19th century, as the number of consumers who wanted to have a new status higher than themselves increased, exotic products of the Bon Marche department store became the object of desire for material pursuits toward the upper class rather than sentimental fantasies. Third, exotic tastes gradually spread to the public as production of products imitating foreign products became possible industrially with an easy access to them. From this, it can be seen that department stores were mediators of trends and the epicenter of popularizing exotic tastes.