• Title/Summary/Keyword: oblique fashion

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A Study of Sewing Methods Used for the Hems of Men's Coat Excavated from the Tombs of Yeosan Song Clan (여산송씨일가묘 출토 남자 포의 가장자리 구성법 연구)

  • Lee, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.9
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    • pp.26-42
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to examine how to sew the hem of men's coat which were excavated from the Yeosan Song Clan's tombs that are thought to be formed between the late 15th and the late 16th centuries, findings of the study can be summarized as follows. 1. Andan, or inside facing was used to prevent the hem from being worn or swollen or to make the hem properly arranged. It was generally used for single-layered and cotton-quilted coat for men. Deotdan was used mainly for men's coat having oblique cutting lines and jemuldan for those having straight cutting lines. In single-layed coat for men, the width of andan was widened a little as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century, but in cotton-quilted ones, the width was not significantly changed. 2. Fixing the lining and the upper was used as a method to prevent the lining of men's coat from being pushed out or the hem of the clothes from being swollen. The method was generally used for double-layered, cotton and cotton-quilted coat for men. The double back-stitching was usually used for double-layered and cotton coat for men and the broad-stitching for Cotton-quilted ones. 3. Among men's coat, those whose siding was partially opened were less spare in the lower end than those whose siding was wholly opened. For this reason, the former clothes were more likely to have the tip of the siding easily torn. To solve this problem, overhand knotting 1, overhand knotting 2 and lotus-flower knotting strings were used for men's coat whose siding was partially opened. Among the three types, lotus-flower knotting was most elaborate in form. For men's coat, overhand knotting became gradually replaced by lotus-flower knotting as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century.

The Bodice Pattern Design of the 19th Century - Focused on the Four-piece Bodice of the Ladies's Costume of the 1890's - (19세기 바디스 패턴에 관한 연구 - 1890년대 여성복의 4장으로 재단된 바디스를 중심으로 -)

  • Moon, Myeng-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.3
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    • pp.23-31
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    • 2007
  • This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

Refinements of Adipofascial flap for Small Defects of Fingers and Toes: Indication and Surgical Tips

  • Chung, Yoon-Kyu;Choi, Jin-Hee;Kim, Jiye;Chung, Seum
    • Archives of Reconstructive Microsurgery
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.25-28
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    • 2016
  • Purpose: Reconstruction of small defects of the dorsal fingers and toes is a challenging task. Although adipofascial flap is widely used for these areas, additional refinements are warranted. In this paper, we define the appropriate defect size in the finger and toes that can be treated with the adipofascial flap, refine its surgical indications and present a few surgical tips. Materials and Methods: Twelve patients with dorsal defects of the fingers and toes were treated with a random-type adipofascial turn-over flap and skin graft. If the defect area exceeded the size that could be covered by a conventional design, the flap base was designed in oblique or curvilinear fashion to lengthen the flap. For accurate defect coverage, the width of the flap base was designed in an asymmetrical shape depending on the defect configuration, varying the width from 0.3 to 1.0 cm, as opposed to the standard 0.5 to 1.0 cm width. Moreover, the lateral limit of the flap was defined as the lateral axial line. The size of the defect ranged from $3.0{\times}1.7cm$ to $1.5{\times}1.3cm$. Results: All flaps survived completely. Gliding function of the hand was well preserved and there was no evidence of tendon adhesion. Conclusion: The small defect in the dorsal finger and toe can be defined as less than one phalanx-length, measuring about $3.0{\times}2.0cm$ in size. If the defect exceeds this dimension, it is recommended that a different option be considered. We believe the adipofascial flap is an excellent option for treating small defects.