• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.702-712
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to understand the current trend with regard to the material of jeans and the making method of jeans pattern and the characteristics of washing processing through the overall production status of jeans in casual brands and to offer the basic data for producing the high efficient jeans. The results were as follows. According to the survey of production status of jeans in casual brands, the fabric mixture was highest in the order of non-stretch denim 100% cotton, stretch denim cotton/spandex mix and denim with $1{\sim}2%$ weft direction spandex mix. The most frequently used processing method for denim was in the order of normal finishing, mercerization finishing, soft finishing and pigment finishing. The most frequently used method of washing finishing for jeans was in the order of forming by embossing washing, bio stone washing, normal washing, bio washing, and bio stone bleach washing. The average shrinkage was higher on waist circumference and pants length of warp direction rather than hips circumference, thigh circumference, hem circumference of weft direction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.461-474
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. Research Method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $2.5{\sim}5.2cm$, hips circumference was $-1.8{\sim}2.8cm$, thigh circumference was $-1.3{\sim}2.0cm$ and knee circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.7cm$. Also, hem circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.8cm$ and pants length was $2.9{\sim}6.2cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.