• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.462-469
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• 2009

This study suggests a general formula of non-cohesive sediment transport rates for waves and currents which is also valid for wave only or current only condition. On-offshore sediment transport rates with the second order Stokes wave in the shallow water are calculated as the pickup rate times the distance. The formula depicts reasonably that high waves move material offshore, and low waves move material onshore. Also the formula, as is the case the waves with long period tend to move material onshore, shows good results.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.939-950
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• 2015

Wave-induced Longshore Sediment Transport (LST) play an important role in the dynamics of the Dhanushkodi sandspit located southeast of Rameshwaram. The LST along the Dhanushkodi coast is studied based on data collected simultaneously in Gulf of Mannar (GoM) and Palk Bay (PB) using directional waverider buoys. The numerical model REF/DIF1 was used to calculate the nearshore waves and the LST rate was estimated using three different formulae. The model validation was done based on the measured nearshore waves using InterOcean S4DW. Numerical model LITPACK was also used for simulating non-cohesive sediment transport and the LITLINE module was used to study the shoreline evolution over 5 years. Low net annual LST along PB (${\sim}0.01{\times}10^6m^3$) compared to the GoM region ($0.3{\times}10^6m^3$) were due to the weak waves. Accretion in the region led to growth of the Dhanushkodi sandspit by 65 m during the period 2010-2015.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.17-17
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• 2011

As a method of countermeasure to bed degradation and armoring phenomena of bed material in the downstream area of dam reservoirs, sediment augmentation (replenished sediment) has been carried out in many Japanese rivers. In general, bed of the replenished sediment site is composed of rocks, because the site is located in the downstream area of the dams and sediment supply is very small. Bed deformation process has been researched by many researchers. As a method of countermeasure to bed degradation and armoring phenomena of bed material in the downstream area of dam reservoirs, sediment augmentation (replenished sediment) has been carried out in many Japanese rivers. In general, bed of the replenished sediment site is composed of rocks, because the site is located in the downstream area of the dams and sediment supply is very small. Bed deformation process has been researched by many researchers. However, most of them can treat movable bed only and cannot be applied to the bed deformation process of sediment on rocks. If the friction angle between the sediment and the bed surface is assumed to be the same as the friction angle between the sediment and the sediment, sediment transport rate must be smaller without sediment deposition layer on the rocks. As a result, the reproduced bed geometry is affected very well. In this study, non-equilibrium transport process of non-cohesive sediment on rigid bed is introduced into the horizontal two dimensional bed deformation model and the model is applied to the erosion process of replenished sediment on rock in the Nakagawa, Japan. Here, the Japanese largest scale sediment augmentation has been performed in the Nakagawa. The results show that the amounts of the eroded sediment and the remained sediment reproduced by the developed numerical model are $56300m^3$ and $26800m^3$, respectively. On the other hand, the amounts of the eroded sediment and the remained sediment measured in the field after the floods are $56600m^3$ and $26500m^3$, respectively. The difference between the model and field data is very small. Furthermore, the bed geometry of the replenished sediment after the floods reproduced by the developed model has a good agreement with the measured bed geometry after the floods. These results indicate that the developed model is able to simulate the erosion process of replenished sediment on rocks very well. Furthermore, the erosion speed of the replenished sediment during the decreasing process of the water discharge is faster than that during the increasing process of the water discharge. The replenished sediment is eroded well, when the top of the replenished sediment is covered by the water. In general, water surface level is kept to be high during the decreasing process of the discharge during floods, because water surface level at the downstream end is high. Hence, it is considered that the high water surface level during the decreasing process of the water discharge affects on the fast erosion of the replenished sediment.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.