• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제11권4호
• /
• pp.204-220
• /
• 2007

The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제18권1호
• /
• pp.149-168
• /
• 2016

The Saka were a large group of Eastern Iranian nomadic tribes on the Eurasian Steppe. The sythian figures shown on the Persian reliefs are esteemed as the only empirical material in the range of scythian costume researches. The study of the scythian culture is an important part in the research of possible connections of our cultural roots with this region. The investigation was initiated by the theory, that the korean people emigrated from the Eurasian region, so that their origin can linked to eurasian riding people. The aim of this study is to organize the scythian clothingform in a typological system. This results shall be used as the starting point for research investigating the origin of the korean clothingform. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and excavation data of German Archaeological Institute. Results of this study are as follows: The basic form of clothing shown on the Persian reliefs is the upperjacket with narrow sleeve and trousers. This basic form is divided into two different types. 1)The median tunicform upperjacket('Sarapis') and median narrow trousers('Anaxsirides'), which is bound with its end shoes. 2)The Scythian 'Cutaway' upperjacket that is cut from the front in the middle to the knee with the diagonal lines and relatively wide trousers. They wore high pointed hats with flaps over ears and the nape of the neck. The first median type is dated from the $6^{th}$ century BC. and the second type can be found on reliefs from the $5^{th}$ century BC. Reliefs. In the meantime appeared a mixed form, namely scythian Jacket and median trousers. From this analysis could be observed that scythian clothingform has changed by median type to the scythian type. The Scythians shown on the Persian reliefs are divided into three group according to the regions where they lived: Saka-paradraya, Saka-tigraxauda, Saka-haumavarga. Clothingstype is different depending on the group. The clothesform is also used as a good parameter to distinguish scythian groups.

• Acta Via Serica
• /
• 제4권1호
• /
• pp.87-109
• /
• 2019

In the Iranian epic $K{\bar{u}}shn{\bar{a}}ma$, there is a rather interesting story that recounts how the inhabitants of $B.s{\bar{i}}l\bar{a}$ cross-breed their domesticated horses with a magical horse living in the sea in order to obtain fine-bred ones. What is even more interesting is that similar accounts are also seen in many of other classical Perso-Arabic works and Chinese sources. The regions that such events took place in mainly spread over Central Asia and western China while in $K{\bar{u}}shn{\bar{a}}ma$, the story happens in $B.s{\bar{i}}l\bar{a}$, a legendary kingdom with its historical prototype being Silla. By sorting out certain records of how ancient people sought fine horses by cross-breeding domesticated horses with wild horses that inhabited mountains and waters within Chinese sources and classical Muslim works, and comparing these accounts with similar plot lines as depicted in $K{\bar{u}}shn{\bar{a}}ma$, this paper attempts to elucidate that the story in $K{\bar{u}}shn{\bar{a}}ma$ is a result of flourishing land and maritime exchanges between East Asia and West Asia during ancient and medieval times, rather than a purely literary fiction. It was not only influenced by the horse culture that thrived over the Eurasian Steppe, but the story is also coincidentally in accordance with the fact that the nomadic zone which lies within the central Eurasian continent extends as far as the Korean Peninsula in northeast Asia.

• 복식
• /
• 제26권
• /
• pp.175-206
• /
• 1995

The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.347-359
• /
• 2016

사람은 본인의 생각과는 무관하게 열두 동물 중에 하나의 동물 "띠"라고 하는 개념과 연관된다. 생활 주변에서 뿌리 깊게 지닌 "띠"의 문화와 이에 대한 민속학적 관점에서 민화에 나타난 십이지의 의미를 살펴봄으로써 아시아권의 민속신앙과 감정 그리고 문화적 배경을 알아보면서 상호 영향과 변화하는 과정을 이해하는 계기가 되기를 기대하며 작성된 글이다. 연구결과 쥐라고 하는 동물은 인간과 더불어 함께 하며 설화나 자연계에서 동반하고 있으며, 소라는 동물은 인류와 함께 더불어 공존하면서 인류의 문명과 같이하고 있다. 호랑이는 인간에게 벽사의 신으로 가장 두려우면서도 가까이하고 있다. 설화 속의 토끼는 인간에게 희망과 이상을 심어주고 있다. 상상 속의 용은 토속신앙의 깊은 뿌리를 형성하고 있으며, 농경문화와 인류의 수호신으로 자리하고 있다. 뱀은 대마도와 제주도에서는 인간을 지켜주는 해신으로 사람들의 생활 속에 깊이 신앙되고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 유목문화에서의 말은 그들의 수호신으로 또는 신과의 영매자로서 유목사회의 기본으로 숭상되고 있었다. 고대 일본인들은 원숭이를 신성시하였으며 보물과 연관 지었다. 원숭이의 지혜를 빌리려는 인간의 욕구의 욕구가 담겨 있다. 닭은 인간과 함께 살아가면서 하늘과 인간 세계를 연결하는 길조로서 의미를 담고 있다. 개는 무속의 저승 설화에서 이승과 저승을 연결하는 메신저의 기능을 수행하는 것으로 신앙되고 있다. 돼지 역시 인간과 공존하며 다산의 의미로 해석되고 있다. 십이지 동물은 민족 간에 의미는 다소 다를지 몰라도 인간과 함께 공유하며 인간의 내면에 자리 잡고 사람들의 생활 속에서 신앙되고 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제3권1호
• /
• pp.65-80
• /
• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권4호
• /
• pp.65-81
• /
• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

• 한국축산식품학회지
• /
• 제22권2호
• /
• pp.183-191
• /
• 2002

몽골의 유가공 기술은 중앙아시아 지역의 유목민 생활방식의 독특한 전통에서 온 것으로 고유의 특성을 갖고 있다. 몽골의 전통적인 유가공 방식은 몽골의 토착종인 몽골우의 원유의 품질과 각 유성분 (단백질, 지방, 그리고 유당)의 허실 없는 완전이용 개념에 바탕을 두고 있다. 몽골에서는 다양한 종류의 유즙생산 동물로부터 젖을 취하여 가공하는 것이 발달했으므로 많은 종류의 유제품이 제조되고 있다. 몽골에서는 30종 이상의 유제품이 제조되고 있는데 그 중 36%는 발효유제품이 차지한다. 몽골의 전통적 발효유제품은 그 자체가 매우 특색이 있다. 왜냐하면 유산구균, 유산간균 그리고 효모가 함께 발효 유제품의 스타터로 사용되고 또한 함께 생육하고 있기 때문이다. 몽골에서는 유목민 생활의 여건 하에서 발효유제품에 쓰이는 유산균 스타터의 제조와 보관 방법이 매우 독특하게 전해져 오고 알다. 기존의 발효은 제품을 처리하여 스타터로 준비하거나 몇몇 특별한 야생식물로부터 유산균을 얻는 방식이 독특하다. 지금은 Rheum undulantum L., Rheum ribes L., Rumex acetosa L., Artemisa sibersena L., Artemisa vulgare와 같은 다섯 종류 이상의 야생식물이 유산균 스타터의 균원으로 사용되고 있다. 몽골에서는 젖을 가공할 때 소규모로서 매우 간단한 도구를 사용하는데 특히 발효유제품 가공기술은 배우기가 쉽고 나름대로의 과학적인 현상에 그 바탕을 두고 있다.

• 복식
• /
• 제17권
• /
• pp.29-43
• /
• 1991

Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
• /
• 통권42호
• /
• pp.293-313
• /
• 2016

인간의 감성을 자극하는 대상에는 여러 가지가 있을 수 있을 수 있는데, 첫 째가 바로 우리와 같은 사람이고 그 중에서도 아리따운 여성과 귀여운 아기들이다. 그 다음 순위가 바로 인간의 동반자로 자리매김한 개과 동물이다. 이는 광고에서 많이 쓰이고 있는 3B법칙(미인 Beauty, 아기 Baby, 동물 Beast - 긍정적인 이미지 덕분에 광고나 선거에서 많이 사용)인데, 이러한 관계는 미술사에서도 오랜 기간 표현되고 있다. 인간과 함께 1만년 이상의 역사를 살아 온 개는 사냥의 임무이자, 목동의 양 떼를 지키거나 농부의 집과 재산을 지키는 임무를 지녔던 인간의 조력자에서, 동반자로서 반려동물이라는 주요한 역할과 함께 현대 도시 문화 안으로 들어오게 되었다. 이처럼 개는 유목과 목축, 시골과 도시 생활 등 여러 가지 상황에 끊임없이 적응해왔는데, 이 논문은 인간과 반려동물이 맺고 있는 밀접한 관계를 수많은 예술가들의 손을 거쳐 나타난 개와 강아지의 다양한 도상들을 통하여 탐구하고자 한다. 여기서 반려동물이라는 뜻은 사람과 함께 더불어 살아가는 동물(companion animal)이라는 뜻인데, 서로가 도움을 주는 일방통행이 아닌 왕복의 관계를 나타낸다. 따라서 필자는 각 시대별로 생존을 위한 가장 훌륭한 사냥꾼의 모습부터, 왕실의 품격으로 우대 받았던 모습, 그리고 기쁨을 선사하며 현대인들에게 일상의 행복감을 전하는 마스코트와 같은 모습을 개, 강아지의 시각적 신호인 '표정'이라는 논의로 담론화 해보고자 한다. 20세기에 들어서는 종종 스크린과 대중매체의 영향을 받아왔는데, 비글, 달마티안이 유행한 시기에는 <피너츠>의 주인공 스누피와 영화 <101 달마티안>이 영화관과 텔레비전에서 성공을 거둔 때와 일치한다. 이런 주인공들은 관객들로 하여금 절로 행복감에 젖어들게 하는데, 이처럼 현대 형상 예술에서도 작가와 독자 간의 소통으로 이루어진 개, 강아지의 도상을 통하여 인간과 개가 나눈 끈끈하고 오랜 우정을 다시 확인해 보고, 각박한 현대 사회를 살아가는 현대인들에게 심리적 안정효과를 기대해 볼 수 있는 계기가 되길 희망해본다. 따라서 인간과 개의 교감을 연구하는데 있어서 본 연구 논문이 새로운 텍스트로 거듭나고 향후 개와 인간과의 여정에서 효과적인 커뮤니케이션으로 확대되기를 기대해본다.