• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.368-386
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• 1994

The primary purpose of this study was to identify the diversity and embellishment of American Indian clothing and relationship between culture and clothing in American Indian Culture Areas. After the introduction of European material culture, change in American Indian clothing was conducted. The result of the Study as follows: 1. The most influential factors affecting the diversity of American Indian clothing were environmental factors. Climates and geographical features, Raw material were reflected in clothing style and clothing material in each culture Area. 2. Economic situation and life style were shown to be influential to clothing development. The best known instance of this was greatly elaborated clothing and personal adornment of the Plains who had higher stand of life and nomadic life style. 3. Religious concepts were important factors influencing American Indian clothing. Indian tribes had different ritual performance they used particular motifs in clothing. Clothing, such as "ghost shirt", Apache medicine shirt and Pueblo ceremonial clothing, served hidden pur- poses. 4. Techenology was another factor identified in this study as influencing American Indian clothing. Especially, weaving skills of Southwest played a great role in textile development. Pueblo "manta" and Navaho "bil" were famous for Indian costume. 5. European material culture allowed great change of traditional native Indian clothing. American Indian had new material, new styles, new concept of clothing. 6. American Indian, although Indian applicated European trade goods, was actually quite conservative in retaining traditional designs and modes of decoration. Asthetics and traction of American Indian were reflected in American Indian clothing.d in American Indian clothing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.187-206
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• 1996

The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjinag, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The results are as follows : A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is field, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair styles was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C. Compared with Korea clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, W1-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.208-219
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• 1999

The costume style of Turfan had changed three times which were the period of peculiar style the period of Kochang style the period of influence of T'ang's culture. Before the founding of Kochang country the costume style of Turfan was two piece style. It was a character of nomadic people's clothes. Tops were tunic and caftan. The method of adjust caftan were two types. The one is wrapping toward left so the right edge of the top covers the left. The other is wrapping toward right. Bottoms were pants and skirts. This period was characterized by the traditional style. I called in it the period of peculiar style After the founding of Kochang country style as Kochang style. In this period Silkroad was so activated that cultural exchanges between many people and materials passed through Turfan. Turfan's culture soaked up the products of civilization of chinese and western Turkestan. Chinese and western Turkestan's costume influencd under the direct control of T' ang dynasty. Such an aspects were reflected the Trufan's costume. The Trucan's costume had changed into the foreign style that was the T'ang's costume. It was the period of influence of T'ang culture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.158-176
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to examine the cultural diversity in terms of costumes by analyzing the costumes depicted in the early Kushan Dynasty relics, Tillya Tepe. As a research method, literature research and artifact analysis were conducted in parallel. The type of costume worn by the king (or priest) was in the type of a jacket and skirt, which was thought to be of Persian influence. The Greek god of Dionysos was wearing a costume with Danryong (團領) and narrow sleeves, a nomadic type of Central Asia. It could be seen that costumes were transformed into indigenous elements of the region. The shape of the helmet worn by the warrior was a Greek-Macedonian helmet. However, details were transformed into indigenous elements of the Kushan dynasty. The clothing of a nobleman riding a carriage was an element of dress that was observed in Chinese po(袍), and was an unusual element not found in nomadic peoples. There were goddesses wearing Greek robes like Aphrodite in Tillya Tepe's relics. On the other hand, there were goddesses who did not wear Greek chitons like the Greek goddess Athena. Instead, they wore high-waisted robes worn by the Orient goddesses. In addition, after Kushan occupied India, there were Indian elements believed to be expressed by accepting Indian culture. These elements were combined with regional orient elements of the Kushan dynasty, Central Asian elements, and Kushan's own elements. Thus cultural diversity emerged in the costumes depicted in Tillya Tepe artifacts.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제20호
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• pp.163-204
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• 2010

감로탱은 수륙재를 거행할 때 거는 탱화로서 수륙화라고도 부른다. 중국 명나라 때의 보녕사 수륙화는 모두 139개의 족자에 장면들을 나누어서 그려 놓았다. 그러나 한국의 감로탱은 하나의 커다란 탱화에 모든 장면을 함께 그려 놓았다. 감로탱의 구성에서 가장 흥미로운 것은 바로 하단에 그려진 육도 윤회상이다. 육도윤회의 업을 반복해야 하는 미혹한 세계의 실상을 묘사하고 있는 하단은 아귀나 지옥고(地獄苦)뿐만 아니라 천상 인간 아수라 축생의 고통상을 인간 세상의 다양한 현실생활에 비유하여 표현하고 있다. 하단에 묘사된 인물들은 죽은 영혼들의 생전 모습을 표현한 것으로, 이들이 바로 수륙재를 통해 천도되어야 할 대상이다. 감로탱의 하단부는 사회생활, 현실생활을 묘사한 내용으로서 그 주제가 인생의 고통, 재난, 인생무상을 표현하여 사람들로 하여금 불교에 귀의하고 해탈하도록 의도하고 있지만, 오히려 당시의 사회현실을 반영하고 있다. 감로탱의 하단부에 묘사된 다양한 유랑예인집단과 그들의 연희도 현실생활의 일부를 사실적으로 반영한 결과이다. 감로탱의 하단부에는 외줄타기, 쌍줄타기, 솟대타기, 쌍줄백이(솟대타기의 일종), 땅재주, 방울 쳐올리기, 탈춤, 접시돌리기, 인형극, 사당춤, 검무 등 전통연희의 공연장면이 많이 그려져 있다. 이 중에는 솟대타기, 쌍줄백이, 쌍줄타기, 방울 쳐올리기, 검무(풍각쟁이패 연희)처럼 이제는 사라져버린 연희종목들도 있다. 감로탱에 묘사된 연희집단은 사당패, 남사당패, 솟대쟁이패, 초라니패, 풍각쟁이패, 굿중패, 서커스단 등 모두 유랑예인집단이다. 이 유랑광대들은 각지를 떠돌다가 죽은 후에 무주고혼(無主孤魂)이 된다. 감로탱에 묘사된 각종 연희 장면의 연희자들은 죽은 사람의 생전 모습을 재현한 내용 가운데 일부로서 수륙재의 천도대상이다. 이 중 솟대쟁이패 사당패 초라니패 풍각쟁이패 굿중패는 현재 존재하지 않는다. 그러므로 감로탱을 통해서 현재는 전승되지 않는 여러 연희종목들의 내용, 그리고 이미 사라져버린 유랑예인집단들의 구체적인 활동상을 살펴볼 수 있다.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.83-93
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the relationship between thought systems of post-structuralism by Deleuze and digital culture which is the core topic of social and cultural discussion. And this study also aims to grasp the diversity and movable thinking shown in fashion illustration from the aesthetic thought systems of post-structuralism theory by Deleuze. Furthermore, this study intends to ascertain the concrete representation characteristics and its significance of fashion illustration by analyzing works on the basis of the above-mentioned theory. What are discussed in this paper can be summarized as follows First, this study examined the post-structuralism which supplies the theoretic basis for figuring out the principles of diversity and movable thinking. Second, this study examined the relationship between the open structure and movable individuality of Deleuze who is a representative scholar of post- structuralism. Third, this study analyzed the representative characteristics and aesthetic value to which the principles of post-structuralism, derived from the aesthetic theory of Deleuze, was applied.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.26-36
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• 1998

Taking in a broad sense, the Big Yopae has two kinds of big oval type and chained small squares or big oval type and chained small oval one. These are named as I type and II type. Again, it is divided into of plain oval and of dented one. means that the big and small oval is dented. This study surveyed the Big Yopae according to each ages. They seemed to be created similar times and it is hard to distinguish I-A from II-A type. After that, the big oval varied as dented one and the small oval as well accordingly. Generally, the Big Yopae have rectangle decoration and this showed that the top decoration was influenced by northern culture. It is designated as bird feather style top decoration in this study. The bird feather inserting decoration, which was come from the northern nomadic tribes culture, was started as shamanism to bird and developed into 'Scythe-shaped' tail mode. 'Scythe-shaped' tail mode is considered to have same type with making an application to the bird feather type top decoration.