• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.23-60
• /
• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.96-106
• /
• 2000

Though the recent years, large scale structures have been built on offshore for utilization of coastal ocean space as offshore airport and marine terminals. Sometimes, those big scale structures, however, happened to act as significant barriers against waves and severe beach erosion would take place on the coast. The present study deals nearshore topography changes affected by construction of an offshore structure with different distance from the shore. The series of three dimensional movable bed experiments have been examined in detail. Moreover, in order to make clear the relation of nearshore currents and local erosions behind offshore structure, the nearshore currents are calculated by Boussinesq equation model and compared with the same scale condition of the physical model experiments.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.37 no.10
• /
• pp.845-855
• /
• 2004

The propagation and associated run-up process of nearshore tsunamis in the vicinity of shorelines have been analyzed by using a two-dimensional numerical model. The governing equations of the model are the nonlinear shallow-water equations. They are discretized explicitly by using a finite volume method and the numerical fluxes are reconstructed with a HLLC approximate Riemann solver and weighted averaged flux method. The model is applied to two problems; The first problem deals with water surface oscillations, while the second one simulates the propagation and subsequent run-up process of nearshore tsunamis. Predicted results have been compared to available analytical solutions and laboratory measurements. A very good agreement has been observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.30 no.6
• /
• pp.326-336
• /
• 2018

Continuous measurement of nearshore waves around Korea over long period is very demanding to setup plans for prevention of disasters of port and coastal structures. In this respect, a new web-based system, termed as WINK, was established, which collects nearshore wave data from Korea Meteorological Agency (KMA), Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA), and Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries (MOF) and provide them after quality control of the data. This paper describes technical aspects regarding collection and selection of the wave observation data, construction of wave hindcasting data, the methodology of quality control for the selected wave data, and overall process of building the web-based data providing system.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.4
• /
• pp.251-269
• /
• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.48-62
• /
• 1998

Seasonal volume transport on the Texas-Louisiana continental shelf is investigated in terms of objectively fitted transport streamfunction fields based on the current meter data of the Texas­Louisiana Shelf Circulation and Transport Processes Study. Adopted here for the objective mapping is a method employing a two-dimensional truncated Fourier representation of the streamfunction over a domain, with the amplitudes determined by least square fit of the observation. The fitting was done with depth-averaged flow rather than depth-integrated flow to reduce the root-mean-square error. The fitting process filters out $11\%$ of the kinetic energy in the monthly mean transport fields. The shelf-wide pattern of streamfunction fields is similar to that of near-surface velocity fields over the region. The nearshore transport, about 0.1 to 0.3 Sv $(1 Sv= 10^6\;m^3/sec)$, is well correlated with the seasonal signal of along-shelf wind stress. The spring transport is weak compared to other seasons in the inner shelf region. The transport along the shelf break is large and variable. In the southwestern shelf break, transport amounts up to 4.7 Sv, which is associated with the activities of the encroaching of energetic anticyclonic eddies originated in Loop Current of the eastern Gulf of Mexico. The first empirical orthogonal function (EOF) of streamfunction variability contains $67.3\%$ of the variance and shows a simple, shelf-wide, along-shelf pattern of transport. The amplitude evolution of the first EOF is highly correlated (correlation coefficient: 0.88) with the evolution of the along-shelf wind stress. This provides strong evidence that the large portion of seasonal variation of the shelf transport is wind-forced. The second EOF contains $23.7\%$ of the variance and shows eddy activities at the southwestern shelf break. The correlation coefficient between the amplitudes of the second EOF and wind stress is 0.42. We assume that this mode is coupled a periodic inner shelf process with a non-periodic eddy process on the shelf break. The third EOF (accounting for $7.2\% of the variance) shows several cell structures near the shelf break associated with the variability of the Loop Current Eddies. The amplitude time series of the third EOF show little correlation with the along-shelf wind.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.108-115
• /
• 1991

This paper aims at the elucidation of the characteristics of longshore current profile after wave breaking. Wave breakers are always accompanied by complex turbulent process, wave energy losess occur and the mean water level also varies due to the gradient of radiation stress. These with other factors result in the development of longshore currents. Longshore currents have relations to the alongshore sand transport and to the diffusion of contaminants in nearshore region, thus the understanding and elucidation of them are very important from the engineering point of view. Using the calculated results, the factors such as lateral mixing cofficients, bed shear stress. wave angle. wave steepness and bottom slope. which are influencing the longshore current profile. are examined. Also, by comparing the results of longshore currents with the experimental data obtained by other investigators, the procedure proposed in the present study is shown to be valid.

• Ocean and Polar Research
• /
• v.31 no.4
• /
• pp.415-422
• /
• 2009

The wave observation system in Korea has been established with an emphasis on pointmeasurement based on in situ instrumentations. However, the system cannot fully investigate the coastal wave-related problems that are significantly localized and intensified with three-dimensional regional geometries. Observation technique that can cover local processes with large time and spatial variation needs to be established. Video imaging techniques that can provide continuous monitoring of coastal waves and related phenomena with high spatial and temporal resolutions at minimum cost of instrumentation risks are reviewed together with present status of implementation in Korea. Practical applications of the video imaging techniques are suggested to tackle with various coastal issues of public concern in Korea including, real-time monitoring of wave runup and overtopping of swells on the east coast of Korea, longshore and rip currents, morphological and bathymetric changes, storm surge and tsunami inundation, and abnormal extreme waves in the west coast of Korea, etc.

• Journal of the korean society of oceanography
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.120-127
• /
• 1997

Depositional environment off the Shihwa Dam has been studied to investigate the change of sedimentation process and the pollution. In order to understand how the sediments are distributed, polluted and modified, depositional factors have been analyzed and compared with the previous data. Study area, located off the Shihwa Dam, was surveyed to collect 25 bottom samples and 2 cores in 1996 and echo-sounding in 1997. These sediments were analyzed for the study of the global characteristics of sediment such as grain size and organic matter. Among these samples, the selected twenty surface sediments were analyzed for the comparison with their contents of metallic elements (Al, Mn, Fe, V, Cr, Co, Ni, Cu, Zn, Cd, Pb, As). According to field and lab analysis of sediments, three sedimentological zones have been generally identified around study area; near the dam (sandy Silt), near the dike (Sand) and offshore (silty Sand) zones. Textural parameters show that the content of silt and clay is dominant near the dam excepting the dike zone of LNG Storage Base and offshore (Palmido). The total concentration of Mn, Ni, Fe, Zn and Cd in bulk sediments was increased after the construction of the dam, while the content of Mn and Cr were higher near tidal channel than in the offshore area. Meanwhile, the annual increasing pattern of some heavy metal has appeared in this area. Based on this primary study, modification of the depositional environment may be caused by the construction of the dam and LNG Storage Base. Additionally, environmental evaluation on organic/inorganic factors has been suggested for interpreting environmental changes caused by coastal development in the nearshore such as the Shihwa coastal area.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.32 no.6
• /
• pp.474-484
• /
• 2018

In this study, a new numerical modeling system was proposed to predict oil spills, which increasingly occur at sea as a result of abnormal weather conditions such as global warming. The hydrodynamic conditions such as the flow velocity needed to calculate oil dispersion were estimated using a three dimensional hydrodynamic model based on the Navier-Stokes equation, which considered all of the physical variations in the vertical direction. This improved the accuracy compared to those estimated by the conventional shallow water equation. The advection-diffusion model for the spilled oil was combined with the hydrodynamic model to predict the movement and fate of the oil. The effects of absorption, weathering, and wind were also considered in the calculation process. The combined model developed in this study was then applied to various test cases to identify the characteristics of oil dispersion over time. It is expected that the developed model will help to establish initial response and disaster prevention plans in the event of a nearshore oil spill.