• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.96-106
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• 2000

최근에까지 대형구조물이 해양공간이용의 목적으로 외해공항 및 해양터미날로 건설되어 왔다 그러나 때로는 이와같은 큰 규모의 구조물은 파량에 대해 현저한 벽으로 작용하게 되고 해안에 심각한 침식현상을 야기하게 된다 본 연구는 해안선으로부터 각기 다른 거리에 외해구조물을 건설할 때에 해저지형변화를 다룬 것으로 일련의 3차원 이동상실험으로 상세히 조사하였다 또한 해빈류와 외해구조물 배후의 국소침식과의 관계를 분명하게 하기 위하여 수리모델실험과 같은 규격으로 Boussinesq방정식 모델로 해빈류를 계산하고 비교하였다.

• 한국수자원학회논문집
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• 제37권10호
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• pp.845-855
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 수치모형을 이용하여 근해지진해일의 처오름 현상과 전파양상을 이용하여 해석하였다. 모의에 사용된 수치모형은 지진해일 거동의 해석에 적합한 비선형 천수방정식을 지배방정식으로 채택하였으며, 유한체적법을 이용하여 해석영역을 이산화 하였고 Riemann 문제를 해석하기 위하여 HLLC approximate Riemann solver와 Weighted Averaged Flux 기법을 이용하였다. 수치모형의 검증을 위하여 마찰 없는 수조에서의 수면진동문제와 원형섬 주위에서 고립파의 진행과 처오름에 대한 문제에 적용하여 각각 해석해 및 실험결과와 비교하였다. 수치모형에 의한 결과는 해석해와 수리모형실험 관측자료와 잘 일치하였다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.326-336
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• 2018

항만 및 연안 시설물의 연안방재 계획 수립을 위해서는 우리나라 연안에서 장기간 연속 관측된 파랑자료가 필수적이다. 이를 위해 기상청, 국립해양조사원, 해양수산부의 연안파랑 관측자료를 수집하고, 품질관리를 거쳐 제공하는 시스템 WINK가 최근 구축되었다. 이 시스템 구축을 위한 각 기관별 장기파랑 관측자료의 수집 및 선별, 역추산자료의 생성, 선별된 관측자료의 품질관리 방법, 웹 기반 자료제공 시스템 구축 과정의 기술적 내용을 본 논문에 기술하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.251-269
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• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.48-62
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• 1998

Seasonal volume transport on the Texas-Louisiana continental shelf is investigated in terms of objectively fitted transport streamfunction fields based on the current meter data of the Texas­Louisiana Shelf Circulation and Transport Processes Study. Adopted here for the objective mapping is a method employing a two-dimensional truncated Fourier representation of the streamfunction over a domain, with the amplitudes determined by least square fit of the observation. The fitting was done with depth-averaged flow rather than depth-integrated flow to reduce the root-mean-square error. The fitting process filters out $11\%$ of the kinetic energy in the monthly mean transport fields. The shelf-wide pattern of streamfunction fields is similar to that of near-surface velocity fields over the region. The nearshore transport, about 0.1 to 0.3 Sv $(1 Sv= 10^6\;m^3/sec)$, is well correlated with the seasonal signal of along-shelf wind stress. The spring transport is weak compared to other seasons in the inner shelf region. The transport along the shelf break is large and variable. In the southwestern shelf break, transport amounts up to 4.7 Sv, which is associated with the activities of the encroaching of energetic anticyclonic eddies originated in Loop Current of the eastern Gulf of Mexico. The first empirical orthogonal function (EOF) of streamfunction variability contains $67.3\%$ of the variance and shows a simple, shelf-wide, along-shelf pattern of transport. The amplitude evolution of the first EOF is highly correlated (correlation coefficient: 0.88) with the evolution of the along-shelf wind stress. This provides strong evidence that the large portion of seasonal variation of the shelf transport is wind-forced. The second EOF contains $23.7\%$ of the variance and shows eddy activities at the southwestern shelf break. The correlation coefficient between the amplitudes of the second EOF and wind stress is 0.42. We assume that this mode is coupled a periodic inner shelf process with a non-periodic eddy process on the shelf break. The third EOF (accounting for $7.2\% of the variance) shows several cell structures near the shelf break associated with the variability of the Loop Current Eddies. The amplitude time series of the third EOF show little correlation with the along-shelf wind.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.108-115
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• 1991

쇄파후 발생하는 에너지 손실과 밀접한 관계를 가지며 또한 쇄파대내에 국한되어 분포하고 있는 연안류 분포형상과 그 형상에 영향을 미치는 제인자에 대해서 고찰하였다. 연안류는 연안역의 물질확산에 관계하며 연안표사와 밀접한 관계가 있어 이에 대한 구명은 공학상으로 커다란 의미를 갖는다. 계산결과로부터 수평확산계수, 마찰계수, 파향각, 파형경사 및 해저경사 등의 연안류의 유속 분포형상에 미치는 영향을 검토하고, 계산의 타당성을 검토하기 위해 기왕의 연구결과와 본 연구에서의 계산결과를 비교 검토한다.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.415-422
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• 2009

The wave observation system in Korea has been established with an emphasis on pointmeasurement based on in situ instrumentations. However, the system cannot fully investigate the coastal wave-related problems that are significantly localized and intensified with three-dimensional regional geometries. Observation technique that can cover local processes with large time and spatial variation needs to be established. Video imaging techniques that can provide continuous monitoring of coastal waves and related phenomena with high spatial and temporal resolutions at minimum cost of instrumentation risks are reviewed together with present status of implementation in Korea. Practical applications of the video imaging techniques are suggested to tackle with various coastal issues of public concern in Korea including, real-time monitoring of wave runup and overtopping of swells on the east coast of Korea, longshore and rip currents, morphological and bathymetric changes, storm surge and tsunami inundation, and abnormal extreme waves in the west coast of Korea, etc.

• Journal of the korean society of oceanography
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.120-127
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• 1997

Depositional environment off the Shihwa Dam has been studied to investigate the change of sedimentation process and the pollution. In order to understand how the sediments are distributed, polluted and modified, depositional factors have been analyzed and compared with the previous data. Study area, located off the Shihwa Dam, was surveyed to collect 25 bottom samples and 2 cores in 1996 and echo-sounding in 1997. These sediments were analyzed for the study of the global characteristics of sediment such as grain size and organic matter. Among these samples, the selected twenty surface sediments were analyzed for the comparison with their contents of metallic elements (Al, Mn, Fe, V, Cr, Co, Ni, Cu, Zn, Cd, Pb, As). According to field and lab analysis of sediments, three sedimentological zones have been generally identified around study area; near the dam (sandy Silt), near the dike (Sand) and offshore (silty Sand) zones. Textural parameters show that the content of silt and clay is dominant near the dam excepting the dike zone of LNG Storage Base and offshore (Palmido). The total concentration of Mn, Ni, Fe, Zn and Cd in bulk sediments was increased after the construction of the dam, while the content of Mn and Cr were higher near tidal channel than in the offshore area. Meanwhile, the annual increasing pattern of some heavy metal has appeared in this area. Based on this primary study, modification of the depositional environment may be caused by the construction of the dam and LNG Storage Base. Additionally, environmental evaluation on organic/inorganic factors has been suggested for interpreting environmental changes caused by coastal development in the nearshore such as the Shihwa coastal area.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.474-484
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• 2018

In this study, a new numerical modeling system was proposed to predict oil spills, which increasingly occur at sea as a result of abnormal weather conditions such as global warming. The hydrodynamic conditions such as the flow velocity needed to calculate oil dispersion were estimated using a three dimensional hydrodynamic model based on the Navier-Stokes equation, which considered all of the physical variations in the vertical direction. This improved the accuracy compared to those estimated by the conventional shallow water equation. The advection-diffusion model for the spilled oil was combined with the hydrodynamic model to predict the movement and fate of the oil. The effects of absorption, weathering, and wind were also considered in the calculation process. The combined model developed in this study was then applied to various test cases to identify the characteristics of oil dispersion over time. It is expected that the developed model will help to establish initial response and disaster prevention plans in the event of a nearshore oil spill.