• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 1995

the necessity of development of the Nearshore zone greatly emphasis in recent years. In the wave deformation model, we can get the wave height and wave direction using the hyperbolic mild slope equation considered the reflection wave. Radiation Stress the driving force of flow was calculated by the Watanabe and Maruyama who proposed on the partial standing wave. In the surf zone, applying the Izumiya and Horikawa's turbulent model considered the bottom friction and energy dissipation, we compared and examined with the Numerical model and Hydraulic test result of Watanabe and Maruyama. This model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach agreed well with the Numerical results. This model is expected so helpful to solve the prediction of the wave deformation problems in the development of the Nearshore zone in the future.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.3 s.29
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• pp.75-85
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• 1998

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.

• Water Engineering Research
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.187-197
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• 2000

This paper describes an adaptive quadtree-based 2DH wave-current interaction model which is able to predict wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes (turbulent diffusion), bottom frictional effects, and movement of the land-water interface at the shoreline. The wave period-and depth-averaged governing equations are discretised explictly by means of an Adams-Bashforth second-order finite difference technaique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Grid adaptation is achieved through seeding points distributed according to flow criteria(e.g. local current gradients). Results are presented for nearshore circulation at a sinusoidal beach. Enrichment permits refined modelling of important localised flow features.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.231-239
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• 2003

A Digital Wave Tank simulation technique based on a finite-difference method and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm is applied to investigate the characteristics of nonlinear Tsunami propagations and their interactions with a 2D sloping beach and Ohkushiri island, and to predict maximum wave run-up around the island. The Navier-Stokes (NS) and continuity equation are governed in the computational domain and the boundary values updated at each time step by a finite-difference time-marching scheme in the frame of rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear kinematic free-surface condition is satisfied by the modified marker-density function technique. The Nearshore Tsunami is assumed to be a solitary wave and generated from the numerical wavemaker in the developed Digital Wave Tank. The simulation results are compared with the experiments and other numerical methods based on the shallow-water wave theory.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.45-50
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• 1975

Over 50 carbonate samples were collected from the Geumgeri coast, Jin Island Textural characters, percent calcium carbonate and nature of the carbonate sediment were determined. Apparently the carbonate beach sediments were derived from the adjacent nearshore. The carbonate sediments contain over 90 percent of molluscan sheel particles, especially oyster shell fragments. The volumetric contribution of the shell fragment to the carbonate sediments is so large that the pre-existed oyster-reef like banks in the nearshore off the Geumgeri coast, Jin Island represent a spectacular example of carbonate sedimentary processes.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 2015

In-situ measurements are labor-intensive, time-consuming, and limited in their ability to observe currents with spatial variations in the surf zone. This paper proposes an optical image-based method of measurement of currents in the surf zone. This method measures nearshore currents by tracking in time wave breaking-induced foam patches from sequential images. Foam patches in images tend to be arrayed with irregular pixel intensity values, which are likely to remain consistent for a short period of time. This irregular intensity feature of a foam patch is characterized and represented as a keypoint using an image-based object recognition method, i.e., Scale Invariant Feature Transform (SIFT). The keypoints identified by the SIFT method are traced from time sequential images to produce instantaneous velocity fields. In order to remove erroneous velocities, the instantaneous velocity fields are filtered by binding them within upper and lower limits, and averaging the velocity data in time and space with a certain interval. The measurements that are obtained by this method are comparable to the results estimated by an existing image-based method of observing currents, named the Optical Current Meter (OCM).

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.87-98
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• 2018

It is widely known that infragravity waves can exert significant influence on wave run-up over beaches. Large run-ups can lead to overwash, flooding and severe coastal erosion. In spite of the importance of infragravity waves in relation to wave run-up and coastal erosion, few studies have been carried out with regard to the impact of infragravity waves on nearshore morphodynamics with respect to eastern beaches in Korea. The purpose of this study is to investigate the importance of infragravity waves in nearshore numerical modelling. For the study, XBeach model was set up to analyze morphodynamics in December 2016, in Ilsan beach which is located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan Metropolitan City. After validation of the XBeach model, numerical experiments were conducted by using various directional spreading coefficients. As the directional spreading coefficients are increased, the effect of infragravity waves is also enhanced by narrowband frequency. With the increasing effect of infragravity waves, the amount of sediment transport is also increased and an erosion dominant pattern is found in the south part of Ilsan beach and a deposition pattern in the north part of the beach mainly due to the wave incident direction of NNE.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.939-950
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• 2015

Wave-induced Longshore Sediment Transport (LST) play an important role in the dynamics of the Dhanushkodi sandspit located southeast of Rameshwaram. The LST along the Dhanushkodi coast is studied based on data collected simultaneously in Gulf of Mannar (GoM) and Palk Bay (PB) using directional waverider buoys. The numerical model REF/DIF1 was used to calculate the nearshore waves and the LST rate was estimated using three different formulae. The model validation was done based on the measured nearshore waves using InterOcean S4DW. Numerical model LITPACK was also used for simulating non-cohesive sediment transport and the LITLINE module was used to study the shoreline evolution over 5 years. Low net annual LST along PB (${\sim}0.01{\times}10^6m^3$) compared to the GoM region ($0.3{\times}10^6m^3$) were due to the weak waves. Accretion in the region led to growth of the Dhanushkodi sandspit by 65 m during the period 2010-2015.

• KCID journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.88-95
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• 1999

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.419-424
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• 2001

The Antarctic clam Laternula elliptica, is one of the most representative benthic invertebrates in the Antarctic nearshore waters. Endemic to the Antarctic, L. elliptica is widely distributed around the Antarctica occurring as dense patches in shallow sheltered areas and exhibits high biomass. Despite its apparent ecological importance, L. elliptica has rarely been studied until recently probably due to difficulties in sampling in the ice-impacted waters. Recent studies have revealed various aspects of its ecology and physiology. In this review, some physiological and ecological characteristics of this species are discussed in relation to some prevailing features of its habitat environment, in particular physical instability of habitat substrates and extreme seasonality of food availability.