• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.351-363
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• 2015

This research explores diachronic fashion design trends through a structure analysis of a connection network based on fashion show concepts implemented by modern fashion designers from S/S 2009 to F/W 2013. The findings from this research are as follows. First, four categories affect the inspiration and thinking of design: the experience of the designer, social atmosphere and phenomena, natural sensitivity (or formative characteristics of natural objects), and the influence and quality of other fields. Second, in cases where the designers' experiences influenced design inspiration and thinking, designers express personal memories with keywords like high school, grandmother's closet, prom, beauty and the beast, heritage, past, and reminiscence through design elements such as lines, silhouettes, materials, and colors. Third, the representative example of the social atmosphere and phenomena that influenced design inspiration and thinking was the 2008 Global Financial Crisis that reflected the social climate through design concepts of keywords such as Recession, Black, Economy, US, Depression, Gray, Dark Age, White and New York. Fourth, inspired by nature and the formative characteristics in design, the designers employed ornamental elements to collections and design concepts that focused on nature words connected to light, sun, wild, dirt, rock, moss, and trees. Fifth, the designers took their ideas from different fields of personal interest in the arts, science and humanities (sports, architecture, sculpture, painting, and literature) that were decisive in determining materials, design colors and silhouettes. The theme of architecture was analyzed as a central element that had an ongoing impact on the concepts of designers.

• Journal of Multimedia Information System
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.113-120
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• 2022

Mongolian folk songs are inspired by Mongolian labor songs and are classified into long and short songs. Mongolian long songs have ancient origins, are rich in legends, and are a great source of folklore. So it was inscribed by UNESCO in 2008. Mongolian written literature is formed under the direct influence of oral literature. Mongolian long song has 3 classes: ayzam, suman, and besreg by their lyrics and structure. In ayzam long song, the world perfectly embodies the philosophical nature of world phenomena and the nature of human life. Suman long song has a wide range of topics such as the common way of life, respect for ancestors, respect for fathers, respect for mountains and water, livestock and animal husbandry, as well as the history of Mongolia. Besreg long songs are dominated by commanded and trained characters. In this paper, we proposed a method to classify their 3 types of long songs using machine learning, based on their lyrics structures without semantic information. We collected lyrics of over 80 long songs and extracted 11 features from every single song. The features are the name of a song, number of the verse, number of lines, number of words, general value, double value, elapsed time of verse, elapsed time of 5 words, and the longest elapsed time of 1 word, full text, and type label. In experimental results, our proposed features show on average 78% recognition rates in function type machine learning methods, to classify the ayzam, suman, and besreg classes.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.269-280
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• 2017

One major concern that has occupied the mind of the designers is a structural failure as result of stress concentration in the geometrical discontinuities. Understanding the effective parameters contribute to stress concentration and proper selection of these parameters enables the designer get to a reliable design. In the analysis of perforated isotropic and orthotropic plates, the effective parameters on stress distribution around holes include load angle, curvature radius of the corner of the hole, hole orientation and fiber angle for orthotropic materials. This present paper tries to examine the possible effects of these parameters on stress analysis of infinite perforated plates with central quasi-square hole applying grey wolf optimizer (GWO) inspired by the particular leadership hierarchy and hunting behavior of grey wolves in nature, and also the present study tries to introduce general optimum parameters in order to achieve the minimum amount of stress concentration around this type of hole on isotropic and orthotropic plates. The advantages of grey wolf optimizer are stout, flexible, simple, and easy to be enforced. The used analytical solution is the expansion of Lekhnitskii's solution method. Lekhnitskii applied this method for the stress analysis of anisotropic plates containing circular and elliptical holes. Finite element numerical solution is employed to examine the results of present analytical solution. Results represent that by selecting the aforementioned parameters properly, fewer amounts of stress could be achieved around the hole leading to an increase in load-bearing capacity of the structure.

• Coupled systems mechanics
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.583-610
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• 2018

This paper discusses the issues associated with modeling frictional contact between solid bodies undergoing large deformations. The most common model for friction on contact interfaces in solid mechanics is the Coulomb friction model, in which two distinct responses are possible: stick and slip. Handling the transition between these two phases computationally has been a source of algorithmic instability, lack of convergence and non-unique solutions, particularly in the presence of large deformations. Most computational models for frictional contact have used penalty or updated Lagrangian approaches to enforce frictional contact conditions. These two approaches, however, present some computational challenges due to conditioning issues in penalty-type implementations and the iterative nature of the updated Lagrangian formulation, which, particularly in large simulations, may lead to relatively slow convergence. Alternatively, a plasticity-inspired implementation of frictional contact has been shown to handle the stick-slip conditions in a local, algorithmically efficient manner that substantially reduces computational cost and successfully avoids the issues of instability and lack of convergence often reported with other methods (Laursen and Simo 1993). The formulation of this approach, however, has been limited to the small deformations realm, a fact that severely limited its application to contact problems where large deformations are expected. In this paper, we present an algorithmically consistent formulation of this method that preserves its key advantages, while extending its application to the realm of large-deformation contact problems. We show that the method produces results similar to the augmented Lagrangian formulation at a reduced computational cost.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.715-722
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of 'slow' fashion style expressed on fashion magazine in pursuit of sociocultural paradigm change towards 'slowness'. As for the research methodology, content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. First, the concern toward eco-friendly ethics has been involving simple style which is long-lasting, junky style which is reused or recycled, and sustainable style which is motived by nature. Second, the interest toward local diversity has been involving ethnic exotic style which is inspired by global culture and vintage retro style which is applied the old tradition. Third, the attention toward self-made has been involving personal style which is produced through the process such as made-to-measure, made-to-order and reform. Also, anonymous dresses can be personalized easily under mix-n-match. In Conclusion, the 'slow' fashion characteristics has been expressed on contemporary mass fashion in various way and the 'slow' fashion would be expected to improve in accordance with the change toward sociocultural paradigm of 'slowness'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.5-16
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to identify the distinctive characterics HYBRID, strictly defined, an offspring that is a cross between different species, genera, or, in rare cases, families, More loosely defined, a hybrid can also be a cross between parents of different subspecies or varieties of a species. Hybrid varieties of plants and animals are of economic value because the hybrid is nearly always more vigorous, larger, and more fertile than either of its parents. Plant and animal hybrids may arise spontaneously in nature or may be produced intentionally by man. Forward-looking fashion explores progress. Adjusting to a world that has integrated genetics and its mutations, the new silhouette seems without references, as if born from a spontaneous generation. A slightly bizarre composite, asymmetrical, discreetly technological aesthetic, it draws on the latest technological details. the pursuit of performance and ergonomics, yet also of comfort and amusement that takes into account the body and its articulations, generates strange garments. Inspired by medical protheses. Focos on fabric touches, their weightiness and surface effects obtained with silicone, rubber or wax. in a range that highlights yellows but can also contrast with colder, slightly surgical hues, the hybrid woman doesn't necessarily want to stand out.

• English Language & Literature Teaching
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• v.9 no.spc
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• pp.167-184
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• 2003

This paper is to analyze how Walt Whitman developed the theme and structure of Leaves of Grass with his ideal of democratic vistas. Whitman established his identity as an inspired poet, having faith in the divinity of man based on transcendental belief. After being awakened to the transcendental truth, he practiced his own common world view--his democratic vistas. Whitman searched for the unity with nature and identified his self with "common man and his nation." The poetry expresses "cosmological and national ideology" dedicated to the creation of an ideal nation united in eternal freedom and peace. By portraying common cosmic and national theme in terms of his individual personality, he brought various paradoxical and controversial ideas into one thing, namely "democracy", fusing diversity into unity. As in the symbol of the grass, there is a unity in variety reflected by democracy in a cosmological and political compound. With the form of free verse, he could express his liberal unrestrained and mystical thoughts of democracy. This new form has been associated with the poet's strong consciousness of the need for modernization in his country. He willingly assumed "the role of prophet and public voice for American democrat" with the rolling catalogues and I-persona which formed a sense of the common man and common things of America. Whitman pioneered a democrat literature with simple and dynamic tone and style. He successively pursued the democratic vistas in his Leaves of Grass.

• Advances in Energy Research
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.255-274
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• 2016

This paper presents a novel symbiotic organisms search (SOS) algorithm to optimize both real power loss (RPL) and voltage stability limit (VSL) of a transmission network by controlling the variables such as unified power flow controller (UPFC) location, UPFC series injected voltage magnitude and phase angle and transformer taps simultaneously. Mathematically, this issue can be formulated as nonlinear equality and inequality constrained multi objective, multi variable optimization problem with a fitness function integrating both RPL and VSL. The symbiotic organisms search (SOS) algorithm is a nature inspired optimization method based on the biological interactions between the organisms in ecosystem. The advantage of SOS algorithm is that it requires a few control parameters compared to other meta-heuristic algorithms. The proposed SOS algorithm is applied for solving optimum control variables for both single objective and multi-objective optimization problems and tested on New England 39 bus test system. In the single objective optimization problem only RPL minimization is considered. The simulation results of the proposed algorithm have been compared with the results of the algorithms like interior point successive linear programming (IPSLP) and bacteria foraging algorithm (BFA) reported in the literature. The comparison results confirm the efficacy and superiority of the proposed method in optimizing both single and multi objective problems.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.53-70
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• 1996

The inspiration and its application in fashion design is considered as one of the important factors in boosting the fashion arena. Many inspirations are adapted in fashion de-sign and they make the fashion design unique and characteristic. In this study many fashion designs are analyzed to find what kind of inspirations were adapted and utilized for the fashion design in reality. The nature historic costumes ethcin costumes arts sciences literature music sports were revealed as the sources of fashion inspiration.l The concerns on the environments movies and dramas could provide inspirations in fashion as well. Several contents or steps were studied to provide the one of the example of appli-cations as follows: 1. The works of Marc Chagall were analized to figure out and several plastic characteristics from his works were revealed such as fantastic strong colors unreal animal pattern or their details his wife and friends various divisions of the surface and so on. These attributes had been favored in depiction of his works to ex-press his home town or nostalgia. 2. '90s fashion designs inspired by the works of Chagall were analized to find out the meth-odology or the process of designs. The same Chagall colors were used in design and similar pattern were expressed through beaded work or printing jobs. The surface designs such as printing were the most prefered method in adapting the inspirations. 3. The plastic characteristics of the work of Chagall were attempted in clothing design and construction. The color combination patterns which remind the animals the surface divisions were used in design ot practive the methodologies.