• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.103-109
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• 2004

This study attempted to investigate the plasticity of Korean paper expressed in contemporary fashion after general inquiry into Korean paper and examine the aesthetic beauty of fashion design using Korean paper. It used the literature review and empirical data analysis together. Korea-paper fashion design, the object of actual investigation, was for Korean-paper fashion from the 1990s to the present. As a result of analysis, the following findings were obtained: First, the natural, warm and soft texture seen as pureness in Korean paper enables us to elicit naturalness from liberalness. In addition, Korean paper not only has the tough characteristic of its material but also has the natural characteristic of abandoning its original nature and complying and adhering to its a given nature. Korean-paper fashion design, using this natural beauty and frank nature, bears the pure image of excluding decoration. Second, the overlapping of the surface on the surface expressed in Korean-paper fashion design forms one space with the sense of depth because of its transparency and expresses temporality through repetition. And the work of folding it with other materials and pasting them up with together demonstrates the effect of reflection because its original transparency. This effect is the specificity created in the collage technique using Korean paper and is the advantage of coming to obtain a wider freedom of expression. Korean-paper fashion design expresses transparency using this repetition and overlapping, Third, Korean paper has the simple rather than luxurious aspect. Owing to this nature, fashion design looks as if there were the greed inherent behind the work made from Korean paper though the complex technique applied to it. And it expresses the restraint of Korean paper using its original white color, the exclusion of decoration and simple design. Fourth, Korean paper is more likely to be changed by the outside influence because of formation. It has its peculiar aesthetic value and original artistry to an extent that it is regarded as one artistic work. The quality and texture of Korean paper diversely vary according to the artist's working process. Like this, Korean paper is easily fused into some object without exclusivity though it may be added to it. Korean-paper fashion design has the beauty of creation that is to create a new world because Korean paper is fused into another material due to its soft nature.