• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.109-120
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• 2009

This study was carried out in order to investigate color sensation and sensibility for yellowish natural dye fabrics and reddish ones and to establish prediction models for color sensibility factors of them by color sensation and the related physical measurements focusing on 40s middle-aged people. Eight fabric stimuli which were dyed with a variety of yellowish or reddish natural dyes was subjectively evaluated in terms of color sensation and sensibility by 40s aged participants. As results, three color sensibility factors including 'Active', 'Characteristic', and 'Relax' were extracted and they were examined in respect of their relationships with color sensation and physical color properties. Color sensibility factor 'Active', the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics was explained by $L^*$ and sensation 'Deep' in its predictive model and a yellowish fabric dyed with 300% solution of armur cork unmordanted was perceived the strongest in the factor. Factor 'Characteristic' was predicted by both $a^*$ and sensation 'Light' and reddish natural dye fabrics tended to be felt more strongly for it. Color sensation 'Strong' was the only predictor for factor 'Relax' in that naturally dyed fabrics with lower values for the sensation seemed to show higher 'Relax' factor and a reddish fabric dyed with safflower 125% was the highest for the color sensibility factor. These results could be utilized to design color-sensible natural dye fabrics for middle-aged people.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.124-134
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• 2018

This study examined the dyeing characteristics and spectrum of cotton and silk by using dyeing solution extracted from aronia. The value $L^{\ast}$ which indicates the brightness of cotton regardless of mordant increases with increasing pH from pH 3.5 to pH 10.5. The color difference value(${\Delta}E$) of the cotton was generally high in pH 3.5 regardless of mordant existence. The silk showed the highest ${\Delta}E$ value in pH 3.5 dye solution as cotton did. On the other hand, the silk with mordant dyed showed the highest ${\Delta}E$ value in pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with Aronia solution turns out red in pH 3.5, blue in pH 7 and yellow in pH 10.5. This is because of the amino acid, one of the silk ingredients, combines with a part of anthocyanin to show blue. As the result of the spectrum measurement, the maximum absorption wavelength of Aronia solution was increased in the order of pH 10.5, pH 3.5 and pH 7, regardless of extraction temperature and mordant. The measurement results of color fastness to washing and color fastness to light are generally low. Therefore, there is a need for further study to improve color fatness in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.254-266
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• 2011

This study analyzes the state and products of shopping malls that sell naturally dyed products in Japan. In this study, 37 natural dyeing shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. There are many natural dying internet shopping malls located in the areas of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Okayama. The most frequent dyes were indigo, followed by akane, persimmon, mud, vegetation, and tea. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothes, and interior decoration products. The most frequent products were adult hats, followed by towels (handkerchiefs), scarves, T-shirts, and bags. For the price of products, 3,000-4,000${\yen}$ was the highest for T-shirts, with 2,000-3,000${\yen}$ and 4,000-S,000${\yen}$ for newborn baby and child clothing, 5,000-10,000${\yen}$ for hats and bags, 3,000-4,000${\yen}$ for scarves, and 1,000-2,000${\yen}$ for towels (handkerchief). Concerning product information, most of the shopping malls offer the product size and the product explanations, but over half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.501-509
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• 2008

This research intends to help local small fashion industry to outgrow its limitation, preserving and developing environment-friendly dyeing tradition in Jeju renowned for persimmon juice dyeing. The study, then, aims to develop eco-friendly golf-wear designs, with maximizing advantages of natural dyeing (with persimmon juice, indigo plant, gallnut, cochineal, turmeric, and loess) such as rot-proofness, bacteria-proofness, stench-proofness and block of ultraviolet rays. The results are as follows: first, natural fabrics such as muslin(cotton 100%), linen(linen 100%) and spandex(mixed cotton 98%, polyurethane 2%) were developed into eco-friendly ones colored with various natural dye sources. Second, four kinds of golf-wear design were developed to stand out golf wear's natural image, focused on classic, neo-minimal style. The characteristic details and design elements of sportswear were added to basic golf wear design. Therefore, it is hopeful that those designs of naturally dyed golf wear for women could be utilized for other various purposes in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.151-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop high-quality naturally dyed leisurewear with images of traditional Korean clothing that keeps a psychologically comfortable and physically pleasant environment at home and in vacation spots. The root bark of elm trees, the atopic skin, is also known to be effective for the relief of rhinitis and atopic diseases as well as stress and insomnia. However, there is insufficient color in the bark for the dyeing of fashion products, so to compensate for the lack of color, for dyeing purposes it was combined with a composite extract called Rubia akane Nakai resulting in a relatively bright red color. Except for the light fastness, all the fastnesses were rated 4 to 5, showing excellent results. Through complex dyeing using elm bark and pods extract the author produced four high-quality vests, one-piece, a gown, and jeogori-pantsuits of silk materials with Korean images that are suitable wear for relaxing comfortably at home and during breaks and which provide a comfortable and physically pleasant experience. The vest was made with the formal style of Bae-ja and Dang-eu, the dress is made of Cheok-lik, and the gown is made of Wonsam. It will be meaningful at a time when the importance of rest is increasing due to the healing clothes worn by busy modern people.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.126-144
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• 2015

The object of this study is to develop textile designs and fashion products based on the cultural resource of Jeju Bangsatop, which means a stone tower preventing misfortune and driving out evil spirits. The field surveys of 32 Bangsatops located at 17 villages in Jeju were conducted. As a result, unlike stone towers located in other regions, Jeju Bangsatops made with basalt. In addition, wood and stone birds, Dolhareungbang, and other sculptures are built on the tops. Jeju Bangsatops were classified into four types based on the body form of the tops: Conical, truncated conical, trapezoid, and irregular shaped Bangsatops. Jeju Bangsatops located in a area or a village are symmetrically arranged in direction of south and north, left and right, east and west, or face to face. The conical, truncated conical, and irregular shaped Jeju Bangsatops which are designated as folk cultural properties or which have the unique sculptures of stone birds and the statues of Dolhareungbang built on the tops were selected as motifs for textile pattern design. The 4 basic patterns of Jeju Bangstops were designed. The six creative textile designs were developed by the various repeat arrangements of the basic patterns and were printed on oxford cotton fabrics by digital textile printing (DTP) method. The sixteen products of wallets, bags, hats and shoes were actually made with the DTP fabrics, the DTP fabrics which were naturally dyed in gray and blue colors, or the DTP fabrics which were redesigned with textile crayon. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Bangsatop could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.51-60
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• 2013

The study is intended to produce a modern Cheollik style one-piece dress that stays within the traditional concept of beauty. Specially, the study focuses on Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty among various traditional costumes as its motif. As the Joseon Dynasty changed, the forms of Cheollik changed with it. People of all classes from the commoners to king wore it. Cheolik was different from other traditional costumes because the top and bottom were connected and so it was an easy to wear one-piece clothing. Initially, the ratio of upper and lower parts was one to one, but later on, the ratio changed to 1:2 as the topcoat became wider and length of the skirt was lengthened. Diverse types of pleat emerged such as fine pleat, opposite pleat and long pleat. Collar and string were also diversified and studied by applying the components. To study it, the author considered the previous studies about Cheollik first. Then, the Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty was reproduced. Thirdly, with the motif of Cheollik components, the materials suitable to a one-piece dress design were selected, dyed naturally. Finally, One piece dress design was utilized by using the components and features of Cheollik. 8 pieces of one-piece dresses were made as an ordinary dress and the materials such as ramie, Oksa, hemp, silk, Yeon-hwamun dan and artificial silk were used. Hopefully, other traditional costumes can develop as a practical and ordinary dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-7
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• 1982

Baik-Eui is the white clothes and Korean typical way of wearing, Baik-Eui was used by the over 80$\~$90 percents of people, which proves that Baik-Eui was the very clothes of common people. Moreover, even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. And wearing Baik-Eui was regarded as polite manners among the noble men in Yi Dynasty in spite of strict prohibitions of wearing it. That fact proves that it was loved by Korean people in general. Baik-Eui can be found its origin from many peoples of North East Asia in ancient time. Some say that wearing Baik-Eui is considered as a kind of worship of the sun, or purity of Korean people. But from the economical point of view, Baik-Eui was primitive in it's color. It means that their clothes were made from original clothes, not dyed. This study on the social reasons affecting to Baik-Eui, they are summarized as follows; 1. This Baik-Eui had been originated from the ancient economical and rigid circumstances of society. Everlasting poverty and diprivation of joy in life of Korean naturally made them have inclination of wearing it 2. Also common people were restricted in their choice of dress color by government. Even rich could not wear a colored clothes except the dyes permitted by them. 3. Socially, People wore white clothes through various kinds of ceremony, among which funeral was the most important. As we had the large family system, and usually the funeral at that time was longer in its period than now. Thus, Korean got accustomed to wear whit clothes more and more.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.