• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.669-676
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• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.327-336
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the color image of the natural-dyed silk fabrics. The dye was extracted from pine needle by boiling pine needle with ethanol at $78^{\circ}C$ for 3hours and distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for 2hours. The 100% silk fabric was dyed of extract in pH 5 at $90-100^{\circ}C$ for 1 hr. As mordants used were compounds of Al, Sn, Fe, and Cr, color image of pine-needle dyed silk fabrics was classified into 5 factors (pure, gentle, sophisticate, comfortable, pastorale) and the factor pure is most important one of those. Most cheerful image in pure factor was from the fabrics dyed with ethanol extract and then, none and Cr mordanting. Dignified image was from the fabrics dyed with ethanol extract and then, Cu or Fe mordanting. In production, products dyed with ethanol extracts was preferred to those dyed with distilled water extracts. Color image and preference of the silk fabrics dyed with pine needles extracted was affected by extraction solvents and mordants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.635-641
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• 2013

This study examined the dye-properties of natural fabrics dyed with Coptis chinensis and Curcuma longa root fermented with fungi. The optimum culture conditions for the fermentation of microorganisms, the relationship between natural dye color and fermentation conditions were investigated. Two different medical herbs (ground to 80-100 mesh in size) were used as a natural dyeing source. Phellinus linteus (P. linteus), which can grow in different media, such as Agarmedium (only agar containing medium), maltose extract agar (MA) and potato dextrose extract agar (PDA) culture media, were isolated from the medium. P. linteus was confirmed to be the optimum microorganism for the fermentation of Coptis chinensis and Curcuma longa, and the MA medium was confirmed to be the best for culturing. When using the microorganism as the fermenting agent, $32^{\circ}C$ was found to be the optimum fermenting temperature for both natural colorants. Regarding the dyeing property of the fermented natural dye, silk was dyed quite darkly in an appearance by naked eye estimation and the K/S value in the color strength of silk reached a high level of 16 after the fermenting process. The washing fastness of dyed silk after treatment washing was reduced from 4 to under4 and indicates that dyed silk with fermented plant was not unsubstantial. The light fastness was 1 to 2, showing intended to maintain due to the fermentation process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.112-119
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• 2019

This study had a purpose of further investigating and developing the usage of the eco-friendly functional dye that has physiological and pharmacological functions. This study was implemented complex dyeing method which used both natural dyes such as Gardenia jasminoides J.Ellis colorant, which are the yellow dyes that have high brightness and low chroma, and Xanthium strumarium L. extract. The silk fabrics were used to dye in various methods. They were also used to investigate functionalities dyed fabrics by various treating method, such as their color fastness, antibacterial activities and deodorization, the following were obtained. The fabrics that were dyed with herbs had decreasing brightness as the herbs extract concentrations were increased and had subtly changing chroma. But, because their K/S values were under 0.5, they were not properly dyed. Color fastness differed according to the natural dyes and herbs' complex dyeing order. The Color fastness was good when the fabrics were dyed with the colorant first, and then with the herb. When the fabrics were dyed with mixture dyeing solution, the natural dye and the herb extract, the herb didn't affect the dyeabilities of fabrics as much. When the fabrics were dyed with the mixture of the colorant and the herb extract, the dyeabilities didn't have much changes. However, their color fastnesses were improved a little bit due to the complex dyeing condition. When the fabrics were dyed with the mixture of the colorant and the herbs extract, their antibacterial activities and deodorization were increased.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.93-105
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• 2002

Nylon fabrics and stocking were dyed with artemisia dyeing solution, dyed with the natural dyestuffs that were manufactured from chestnut hulls by boiling in 0.5% NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer, and dyed with gromwell dyeing solution. Dyeabilities on nylon fabrics and stocking were good because of being amine group. All the dyed fabrics & stocking showed excellent in color fastness to laundering, and as poor as grade 1 to light fastness. But Light fastness of them could be improved to grade 3 or 4-5 by treatment with gallic acid and by repeated dyeing. Antimicrobial activities of the fabrics dyed with artemisia and gromwell against Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans were excellent in the aspect of bacteriostatic and fungistatic. There were not any distinct differences between mordant and non-mordant fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.486-492
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• 2017

This study finds surface color and functions of natural dyeing from Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves which help cure skin problems such as atopic dermatitis. This study also seeks to find dyeing properties and functions of natural colorants derived from Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum on silk. Dyeing properties and functions are compared between silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum. The comparison examines the feasibility of developing healthy and high functional fabrics and wellness of fashion merchandises. Silk dyeing with Chamaecyparis obtuse leaves yields yellow and double coloring from Chamaecyparis obtusa; however, Rubia tinctorum yields yellow/red on silks. Silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum show a high level on dry cleaning, ultraviolet protection and deodorization. Especially, the dyed silks from leaves of Chamaecyparis obtusa show a 99.7% antimicrobial effect against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 653B. Silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum are better known for medicinal herb for dermatitis, and natural colorant, Rubia tinctorum does not improve significantly functions compared with silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa. However, the dyeing properties improve by composite dyeing. This implies that ways to maximize effects of tie-dyeing technique could be developed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.73-81
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• 1997

Parsimon juice dyeing is the one of the most popular natural dyeing methods which have been done traditionally among the farmers. The clothes dyed with parsimon juice has several merits, that is, it become much more durable, cool, easy to wash and wear after dyeing and these merits are the reason why people likes to wear the parsimon juice dyeing clothes as work wear. Especially in Cheju province, parsimon juice clothes became a folk costume and many people still enjoy wearing it in the hot summer days. But one of the demerits of parsimon dyeing is that the possible period of dyeing is very short. So, if parsimon juice dyeing could be done with the preserved parsimon juice, it would be possible to enlength the period. With this idea, we compared the color and colorfastness of fabrics which were dyed with 4 kinds of parsimon juice. The experimental parsimon juice 96-8 was preserved during 13 months, 96-9 was 12 months, 97-8 was 1 month and 97-9 was not preserved one. The experimental fabrics were cotton, silk. nylon and polyester fabrics. The results were as follows ; 1. The colors of fabrics dyed with experimental parsimon juice 96-9, 97-8, 97-9 were yellow-red and dyeing states were good. But the colors of fabrics dyed with 96-8 were dark and the state were bad, because the color of experimental parsimon juice 96-8 was changed during preservation. 2. The best state of dyeing could see in the fabrics dyed with experimental parsimon juice 97-8, although that was preserved 1 month. 3. There were differences of color between experimental fabrics dyed with same juice and the colors were thicker in cotton and silk than in nylon and polyester fabrics. 4. During wetting and drying process, the color changes in fabrics dyed with no preserved one were more than in fabrics dyed with preserved ones. 5. The color fastness to the light of the dyed fabrics was over 4, to the acidic perspiration was 3~4 or 4~5, to the alkaline perspiration was 2, 3 or 3~4 and to the washing was 1~2. There was no significant difference in colorfastness between the 96-9 dyed fabrics and 97-9 dyed fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.205-212
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• 1996

This paper is to study the characteristics of fabrics dyed with astringent unripe persimmon juice. The cotton silk rayon and nylon fabrics were dyed with astringet unripe persimmon juice. The structures of natural fabrics dyed fabrics and dyed fabrics followed by washing were examined by scanning electron mi-croscopy. Surface reflexibility of VIS trans-mittance of UV VIS and NIR were analyzed. The study conclues as follows: 1. Colour of cotton fabrics dyed with persim-mon juice became darkended as a function of exposing time to sunlight. That colour was chaged after washing. 2. Blocking effect of ultraciolet light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed cotton fabric blocked UV light perfectly and the blocking effect was still remained after 9 washings. 3. Persimmon juice dyeing produced coating effect to fabrics besides dyeing effect accord-ing to the scanning electron micrographs. In a word the cotton fabric dyed with per-simmon juice has blocking effect of UV light stiffness. Therefore I think persimmon juice dyeing is a very useful textile finishing and ex-pect a wide application of the technique in fu-ture.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.109-120
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• 2009

This study was carried out in order to investigate color sensation and sensibility for yellowish natural dye fabrics and reddish ones and to establish prediction models for color sensibility factors of them by color sensation and the related physical measurements focusing on 40s middle-aged people. Eight fabric stimuli which were dyed with a variety of yellowish or reddish natural dyes was subjectively evaluated in terms of color sensation and sensibility by 40s aged participants. As results, three color sensibility factors including 'Active', 'Characteristic', and 'Relax' were extracted and they were examined in respect of their relationships with color sensation and physical color properties. Color sensibility factor 'Active', the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics was explained by $L^*$ and sensation 'Deep' in its predictive model and a yellowish fabric dyed with 300% solution of armur cork unmordanted was perceived the strongest in the factor. Factor 'Characteristic' was predicted by both $a^*$ and sensation 'Light' and reddish natural dye fabrics tended to be felt more strongly for it. Color sensation 'Strong' was the only predictor for factor 'Relax' in that naturally dyed fabrics with lower values for the sensation seemed to show higher 'Relax' factor and a reddish fabric dyed with safflower 125% was the highest for the color sensibility factor. These results could be utilized to design color-sensible natural dye fabrics for middle-aged people.