• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.96-104
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the antimicrobial activity, antimutagenic and anticancer effects and dyeing properties of the fermented indigo extract. The physiological effects of natural color extracts from colorant plants(gardenia, beet and indigo) were studied. The methanol extract of indigo showed an inhibitory effect on the growth of E. coli and Staph. aureus, and also showed a strong antimicrobial effect on Trich. mentagrophytes compared to others. The methanol extract of indigo showed antimutagenic activities against aflatoxin B1(AFB1) in the Ames test using Salmonella typhimurium TA 100. The proliferation of Clone M-3 mouse melanoma cells and A431 human epidermoid carcinoma cells was inhibited by the methanol extract of indigo. So we decided to use natural indigo for dyeing the fabrics because of those effects. Dried indigo leaves were fermented at variouss temperature and the fermented indigo was reduced by using alkaline(NaOH, Ca(OH)2) and glucose to dye the fabrics. The values of K/S fermented indigo showed the highest value when it was fermented at 3$0^{\circ}C$. The indigo fermented at 3$0^{\circ}C$ had the greatest number of total bacterial counts and we identified one of the main microorganisms as Aspergillus niger. This microorganism was responsible for the indigo fermentation and accelerated indigo fermentation. So it can be supposed to reduce the fermentation period of indigo by inoculating Aspergillus niger into the indigo leaves at 3$0^{\circ}C$.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권7호
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• pp.1205-1219
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• 2010

This study analyzes the conditions and products of internet shopping malls that sell natural dyeing products. In this study, 98 natural dyeing internet shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. The locations of the internet shopping malls were Gyeonggi-do, Seoul, Jeollanam-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Gwang-ju (city), Daegu (city), Busan (city), Gyeongsangnam-do, and Jeju-do. The most frequent dyes of the natural dyeing products were loess, followed by charcoal, indigo, and persimmon. Indigo was most frequently used in Seoul, with loess and charcoal most frequent in Gyeonggi-do. Persimmon, indigo, loess, and charcoal were mainly used in Jeollanam-do, with persimmon and loess in the Gyeongsangbuk-do, and persimmon in Jeju-do. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothing, interior decoration products, and bedding. The most frequent products were bedclothes, followed by scarves, female shirts, blouses, pillows, female jackets, and vests. Regarding the price of products, 150,000-200,000 won was the highest for the Saenghwal Hanbok, with 10,000-30,000 won for underwear, 30,000-60,000 won for accessories, and 100,000-150,000 won for bedding. Concerning product information, 58.2% of internet shopping malls offer the product size and almost half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product. Based on the research results, the problems of the conditions and products of natural dyeing internet shopping mall were derived. The results show that the natural dyes of internet shopping malls lacked regional symbolism, the products were not specialized, and product information was not fully offered to consumers. To solve these problems, the strategies for marketing the promotion of the natural dyeing internet shopping mall were, ‘Using natural dyes from local resources’, ‘Market oriented and specialized item design’, and ‘Offer right product information’.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.87-97
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• 2022

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.

• 감성과학
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.143-154
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• 2018

본 연구는 친환경적이고 감성적인 패션상품의 색채기획을 위한 자료를 제공하고자 수행되었다. 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색 후 무매염 견직물과 4종의 매염제(Al, Cu, Fe, Zn)를 처리한 견직물에 대하여 색채특성을 측정하였다. 또한 복합염색 후 매염처리된 연두색 견직물에 대하여 여대생을 대상으로 색채감성과 색채 선호도를 조사하였으며, 색채특성과 색채감성이 색채 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽/괴화로 복합염색된(무매염) 견직물은 선 염색한 쪽 농도가 $10g/{\ell}$이면 녹색, 쪽 $20g/{\ell}$을 사용하면 청록색을 나타내었으며, 4종의 매염제를 사용하여 처리시 거의 모든 경우 연두색을 나타내었다. 연두색을 나타내는 복합염색된 견직물 10종의 색채감성을 요인분석한 결과, 유쾌성, 품위성, 편안성 요인으로 분류되었으며, 이러한 색채감성은 쪽 농도와 매염제의 종류에 따라 대부분 유의한 차이를 보였다. 또한 복합염색된 연두색 견직물의 색채특성과 색채감성요인 간에는 대부분 유의한 상관성을 보여, $L^*$값, $b^*$값, $C^*$값이 크고 $a^*$값이 작을수록 유쾌성과 편안성 감성을 더 강하게 느끼며, $L^*$값이 작고 $a^*$값이 클수록 품위성 감성을 더욱 느끼는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색하고 매염처리한 연두색 견직물의 색채감성요인을 예측변수로 활용할 수 있는 색채 선호도 예측 회귀식이 제안되었다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.365-374
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• 2013

The purposes of this study were to evaluate the color characteristics and color sensibility of mulberry/cotton blended fabrics dyed with indigo, the natural dye, and analyze effects of them on color preferences. The values of CIE $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$ $C^*$, h were calculated for the color characteristics of indigo-dyed fabrics, and their hue, value, and chroma were calculated according to the Munsell color system. Fifty male and female college students evaluated the color sensibility of nine types fabrics dyed with indigo on a seven-point scale. The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, Kruscal-Wallis test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The mulberry/cotton blended fabrics naturally dyed with indigo showed the characteristics of PB color tones, low value, and low chroma. The color sensibilities of fabrics dyed with indigo were classified into four factors: 'classic', 'sporty', 'elegant' and 'natural'. There were significant differences according to the fibers and the repeating times of dyeing in the color sensibility for the fabrics. Cotton fabrics were evaluated to be more classic, sporty, elegant, and natural than the mulberry/cotton blended fabrics, and the deeper the color, the more classic, sporty, and elegant the fabric was evaluated. The students preferred the indigo dyed fabrics which have more classic, sporty, and natural sensibility. There were significant relationships between the color sensibilities and colorimetric properties of the fabrics dyed with indigo. The color preferences of the dyed fabrics with indigo were found to be influenced by the 'classic', 'sporty', 'natural' of color sensibility.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.101-109
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to investigate the characteristics of natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric. Reduction and dyeing were carried out by one-step process using an infrared dyeing machine at the liquor ratio of 1:100, and subsequently oxidation and washing in water were followed. Dye uptake was increased with the increase of indigo concentration. Over the full range of dyeing tests, the dyeing condition was optimized to $40^{\circ}C$ for 40min. For most of dye concentrations, the cotton fabrics showed mainly PB color. Maximum K/S value was shown at 4g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration and the color strength increased with the increase of dye concentration. Value(lightness) decreased with the increase of dye uptake irrespective of mercerization or reduction method, while the mercerized cotton showed two times higher dye uptake than the untreated cotton. Whereas hue of the untreated cotton showed large decrease of P character(5.6~3.5 PB) with the increase of dye uptake, that of the mercerized cotton increased P character(4.7~5.5 PB). Irrespective of mercerization, value and chroma decreased with the increased of dye uptake. In addition, the untreated showed lower chroma than the mercerized cotton. In the case of traditional reduction, hue of the untreated cotton was changed very little with the increase of dye uptake. For hydrosulfite reduction, P character decreased with the increase of dye uptake. The difference of hue value was small with the change of reduction method(hydrosulfite reduction or traditional fermentation). Color character was not influenced by the changed maximum absorption wavelength. Washing fastness showed 4~4/5 shade change rating without any staining. And dry rubbing fastness was good at low color strength. The bacterial reduction ratios of dyed cotton fabric were also increased.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제50권1호
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• pp.31-45
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• 2022

After manufacturing the natural dyed actual size Hanji using 11 kinds of plant natural dyeing materials and 2 kinds of animal natural dyeing materials, the color characteristics and color change and color fastness after post-mordanting were compared and discussed. The hues of 13 types of natural dyed Hanji were black, PB, and RP, each with 1 type, YP with 3 types, and Y with 7 types. Among the natural dyeing materials, Chinese ink, indigo and Lac showed high color yield and color difference, and violet-root cromwell and gardenia seeds showed low color yield. The color fastness of Hanji dyed with turpentine diluted Ottchil, Pagoda tree seeds, Chinese ink and indigo was excellent, while that of gardenia seeds and violet-root cromwell were very poor. After post-mordanting of natural dyed Hanji with Al, Cu, and Fe mordants, the hue changes were show up the Alnus firma, clove, lac and cochineal. In addition, the color difference was very diverse and was overall the most biggest due to Fe mordant. After 72 hr. of UV irradiation on post-mordanting natural dyed Hanji, hue change was observed in 3 types and color fastness was improved in 8 types by post-mordanting. The Hue and color fastness are significantly different depending on the type of natural dying materials and post-mordants. Therefore, when dyeing Hanji with natural dyes, it is necessary to dye with sufficient knowledges and informations about the desired color and fastness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.