• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.669-676
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• 2012

This study aims to compare the properties of natural dye stuffs, such as color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, to analyze the differences noted by expert groups regarding the properties of the stuffs, and to make a positioning of the stuffs. A survey of experts in academia, business, and the art of natural dyeing was conducted, with an evaluation of 23 types of the stuff's properties. There is a correlation between the properties of the stuffs, and evaluating dye stuffs differs according to the group to which it belongs. X-axis relates to color and Y-axis refers to fastness in the positioning of the stuff. There are different relationships between properties according to their group. Color is significantly associated with marketability in art experts however, fastness is closely connected with marketability in business. The stuffs can be divided into five clusters. Cluster I includes indigo and persimmon, and is marked by excellent color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, Cluster II contains safflower and sappan wood, which are excellent colors, yet suffer from low marketability on account of their medium to low fastness. Cluster III includes red, purple, and brown dyes, and onion and rhubarb, and has medium properties. Cluster IV is mugwort and yellow dyes, except onion and rhubarb, and features low properties. Cluster V is loess, featuring medium color and low fastness.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.48-56
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• 2000

Yellow dye-stuffs in natural plant were extracted from a gardenia, saffron, safflower, amur tree and pagoda. And then they were used to color Korean handmade paper(Hanji) on using a mordant. The results of the degree of discoloration are as follows. 1. As for a gardenia(Gardenia jasminodes Ellis for. grandiflora Makino), the effects of coloring were outstanding in the acid area. But for the preservation, it might be desirable that used a lye in a dye-stuff obtained at $40{\pm}5^{\circ}C$. 2. As for saffron(Curcuma longa L.), when used alum as a mordant, it was colored to a medium yellow color with green color. But easily discolorated and was not desirable. And, it didn't fit in a dye-stuff of Hanji. 3. For safflower(Carthamus tinctorius L.), when pH was in the low acid it was colored to the cleaner yellow color. It was the distinction of discoloration that the degree of brightness's increase was low. 4. For amur cork-tree(Phellodendron amurense Rupr.), the effects of yellow coloring were great in the areas of acidity and alkali. But, when used alum, the degree of the discoloration was high and was not effective. 5. For pagoda tree(Styphnolobium Japonica L.), using a calcium hydroxide as a mordant, enabled the more than average yellow to be gained. The degree of discoloration was good.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.363-369
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• 1999

Artemisia princeps was used for the natural dye stuff extraction and concentration to produce the condensed dye liquid. Using this liquid, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed. And then the K/S value, color difference were measured in order to determine the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The K/S value of silk were much higher than those of cotton. In terms of the silk fabric, the premordanting method was most efficient of the mordanting method. The various surface colors on the dyed fabric were resulted according to used mordants and mordanting methods. The dye fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Among them, Cr-mordant improved more than 1 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on both of mordant treated silk and cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 2000

Saururus-chinensis was used for the natural due stuff extraction and concentration to produce the condensed dye liquid. Using this liquid, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed. And then the K/S value, color difference were measured in order to determine the dye ability and the antimicrobial activity. The K/S values of silk were much higher than those of cotton. In terms of the silk fabric, the Al, Cr-premordanting and Fe, Cu-simmordanting method was most efficient of the mordanting method. The various suface colors on the dyed fabric were resulted according to used mordants and mordanting methods. The dye fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Among them, Al-mordant improved more than 1 level. The Cu, Fe-mordants showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on both of mordant treat silk and cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.669-676
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• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.431-440
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.35-41
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• 2008

This study investigated the dyeing properties of silk fabrics with Annatto. The dye stuff was extracted by distilled water at $60^{\circ}C$, 10minutes, 1:100 of bath ratio. Dyeability(K/S) and color fastness of silk fabrics were tested under conditions of various concentrations, time, temperature, repeat-numbers of dyeing, pH, mordants variables and methods of mordanting. The highest absorbance was found in methanol extract of Annatto. The optimum dyeing concentration, time and temperature of silk fabrics with Annatto were 25%(o.w.f.), 60min and $60^{\circ}C$ respectively. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordanting than in pre-mordanting, and especially post-Fe mordant showed highest K/S value. In the case of colorfastness, Cu-mordanted fabrics were good washing fastness. Dry cleaning fastness appeared 4-5 grades and light fastness showed lowest grade.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.285-298
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• 1973

The colorfastness of dying persipiration and laundry on summer clothing must be considered, because it has special relation to the human body. The colors of fibers as cotton, p/c, acryl, polyester and nylon which have been widely used for blouse and T-Shirt of Knitted wear are R-P, Y-G, BI-B and print. Studies were carried out with persipirometer, for the natural fiber of cotton the chemical one of nylon, with additional stuff involved, which polluted. The experiment was conducted to colorfastness with acid solution and alkaline solution to see the alteration of color and staining of man-made persiperation. The results obtained from this experiment can be summerized as follows. 1. The order of color alteration isnylon < p/c < coton < polyester < acryl, and the nylon shows the lowest colorfastness, which is 3 class, and the acrly shows the highest colorfateness, which is 5 class. The staining of multifiber test of cotton fabric is nylon < p/c < polyester < cotton < acryl. The staining of multifiber of nylon fabric is nylon polyester < p/c < cotton < acryl. 2. In acid solution and alkaline solution, the alteration of color and staining makes almost no difference, but concerning staining of cotton, the acid solution is lower than the case of alteration solution only. 3. In the pollution on cotton and nylon, the latter is more easily polluted than the former regardless of fabrics. Especially in case of polluted nylon, ti shows the lowest color fastness (2 class), which causes a problem of the dying process and dye stuffs. 4. No difference of color alteration shows among them, but R-P and print show low color fastness (2 class), especially printed nylon shows the lowest value (1 class).

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.51-58
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• 1998

Generally pigment differs from dye stuff because it cannot be melted in water but also because it is stable physically and chemically. In this study you will discover the function, properties and effects of Micai-TiO$_2$-SiO$_2$pigment as abase material pigment. But until now used Mica of the base material is about 7-l5${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$ with an average diameters of 15${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$. A new characteristic superficial pigment was obtained from covering the TiO$_2$ and SiO$_2$ with the adsorption result of isoelectric point of a Mica flake, TiO$_2$ and SiO$_2$In the composition reaction study of adsorption was done as well as the physical characteristics of the superficial texture of the obtained material. L,a,b of color change as oil was absorbed, optical nature and change of reflection according to direct and diffused reflection. In the composition of Mica slurry the best result obtained was in a solution with pH 2.0 to 2.3. Following this result, we can come to the idea that electrical attraction was done during the change of electrical charge of the Mica and TiO$_2$ deposit. Also this pigment shows a big scale between the direct reflection and diffused reflection light. Using this characteristic in cosmetic, it was obtained a natural but a contrast between light and shadow making possible a sculptured make-up. Color change due to oil adsorption was insignificant which improved the last of make up.