• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.121-133
• /
• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Safety Management & Science
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.97-103
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study was to verify the change in temperature humidity perspiration of fire suit when applying phased intensive exercises to fire fighter wearing fire suit. For this study, three male fire fighters took basic physical test and performed 10 minute phased intensive exercises -exercise intensity I (30%VO2max), exercise intensity II (45%VO2max), exercise intensity III (60%VO2max) based on maximum oxygen consumption (VO2max)- wearing fire suit (helmet, boots, air respirator) in treadmill and took a rest. The result of study shows that the temperature in the suit elevated during stabilization period after each exercise intensity, humidity elevated as exercise intensity increased, perspiration elevated as exercise intensity increased. This study indirectly ascertained the fire suit's physiological change in fire fighters during field activities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.3
• /
• pp.31-46
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.286-292
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.485-491
• /
• 2014

This study verified the effect of summer flight ventilation developed in a previous study based on wearing comfort evaluation. Seven healthy males in their twenties volunteered for this experiment conducted in aclimatic chamber. The experiment consisted of three consecutive periods of rest (20 minutes), running on a treadmill (10 minutes) and recovery (20 minutes). A comparative evaluation was conducted on the general flight suit which had no ventilation holes and summer flight suit that use subjective satisfaction measures and objective measures. The subjective satisfaction was evaluated according to the criteria of temperature sensation, wet sensation, thermal comfort and fatigue sensation. The objective satisfaction was measured by skin temperature, microclimate (temperature and humidity), sweat rate and thermography. The comparative wearing evaluation identified the summer flight suit decreased the temperature between skin and suit by $0.42^{\circ}C$ (upper arm), $0.9^{\circ}C$ (calf) and the skin temperature by $0.3^{\circ}C$ (shoulder), $0.4^{\circ}C$ (upper arm), $0.5^{\circ}C$ (calf) as compared to the general flight suit. The humidity inside the summer flight suit decreased at head (7.73%), shoulder (5.86%), upper arm (5.26%), and calf (8.73%) compared to the one inside the general flight suit. Thermography showed that the air flowed through ventilation holes (neck and armpit). The design of ventilation holes applied to the summer flight suit can be applicable to overall clothing that requires thermal comfort such as dust-free garments, mechanical clothing and combat uniforms.

• Applied Microscopy
• /
• v.52
• /
• pp.4.1-4.11
• /
• 2022

Field emission scanning electron microscopy (FESEM) is an essential tool for observing surface details of specimens in a high vacuum. A series of specimen procedures precludes the observations of living organisms, resulting in artifacts. To overcome these problems, Takahiko Hariyama and his colleagues proposed the concept of the "nanosuit" later referred to as "NanoSuit", describing a thin polymer layer placed on organisms to protect them in a high vacuum in 2013. The NanoSuit is formed rapidly by (i) electron beam irradiation, (ii) plasma irradiation, (iii) Tween 20 solution immersion, and (iv) surface shield enhancer (SSE) solution immersion. Without chemical fixation and metal coating, the NanoSuit-formed specimens allowed structural preservation and accurate element detection of insulating, wet specimens at high spatial resolution. NanoSuit-formed larvae were able to resume normal growth following FESEM observation. The method has been employed to observe unfixed and uncoated bacteria, multicellular organisms, and paraffin sections. These results suggest that the NanoSuit can be applied to prolong life in vacuo and overcome the limit of dead imaging of electron microscopy.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.113-127
• /
• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.609-616
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.4
• /
• pp.573-585
• /
• 2021

This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name "Danju," a label of synthetic resin which reads "Daegu citizen's tailor's shop," and buttons engraved with "PUSAN SIN-HUNG." According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.26-38
• /
• 2023

This study aimed to develop a visually differentiated quarantine suit design for giving 119 paramedics comfort to work and psychological stability and to awaken awareness without fear or pressure of the public through literature review and practical research. Basic research was conducted on firefighting uniforms and quarantine suits in Korea and abroad, focusing on domestic and foreign related literature. An interview survey was conducted to identify the current status, problems, and preferences of the design. Research subjects were eight dispatched paramedics and two executives in Seoul and Gwangju. The survey period was from September 15, 2022 to October 10, 2022. Interviews were conducted through phone calls. Results of this study were as follows. Most of the quarantine suits currently worn were Level D style ready-made clothes without coverall patterns. The current quarantine suit was designed without reflecting the symbolism of the National Fire Agency. They were wearing a generous size without having to think about the fit. Most of these quarantine suits were white. In addition, the quarantine suit could not be equipped with a camera for the safety of paramedics. After identifying improvements based on results of the above interview analysis, the following quarantine suit design was proposed. First, it would be differentiated from other institutions by designing suits with symbolism. Second, the convenience of size, camera equipment, and better breathability and style than Level D should be considered. Based on these results, a total of five quarantine suits were designed.