• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.47-57
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• 2007

This study focused on the properties natural dyeing and natural material and on the development of functional material for well-being in apparel industry. Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini is used as natural dyeing material which had been reported that have curable effect for unbalanced immunity, geriatric diseases like urinary tract system, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, tinnitus, hyperhidrosis and women's diseases like hypermenorrhea. And this material also has anti-cancer effect so that can restraint cancer cells. 3 kinds tester of cotton, wool and silk are dyed by boiled with each dye (flower, fruits, bark of tree) as first dyeing and dried in the shade. These testers are done by post-mordanting method. Aluminium Potassium(Alk(SO4)2), Cuprie Sulfate($CuSO4{\cdot}5H2O$), Stannous Chloride($SnCl2{\cdot}2H2O$), Ferrous Sulfate($FeCl2{\cdot}4H2O$), Titanium Sulfate 24% aqueous solution(Ti(SO4)2) are used as mordants. Dyeing results of Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini flower and bark are shown as yellow color series. And dyeing result of fruits is pink color series. Silk shows the best dyeing property. As the point of view for dyeing property, Ti, Sn, Fe would be the properchoice for mordant. Following results are extracted in this study. Yellow color is resulted in dyeing with Cornus officinalis flower as non-mordanting condition. Yellowish red color is come from dyeing with Comus officinalis fruit as non-mordanting condition. Grayish yellow tone is resulted in dyeing with bark as non-mordanting condition. Orange tone color with Ti-mordanting, green tone color with Sn-mordanting and gray tone color with Fe-mordanting is resulted respectively. However light-fastness of Comus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is very low as 1 or 2 level in non-mordanting condition, Comus officinalis flower dyeing is turned out 3 or 4 level and fruit dyeing is 4 or 5 level, bark dyeing is 2 or 3 level with Ti-mordanting respectively. Eventually Comus officinalis fruit has the best light-colorfastness property among all of dyes. dry cleaning colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, perspiration-colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, With these results, this study could conclude that dye-ability, colorfastness problem is getting better after mordanting process and practical usage would be possible.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.107-121
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• 2003

This study was discussed the dyeing of wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract. The extracts of Chinese Scholar Tree was prepared in the condition of heating at $95{\pm}5C$, for 1 hour and cooling to 40C. And then the extracts of color matter treate with vacuum concentration at $60{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, 30mmHg and dried with spray dryer. The dyeing of wool and nylon fabric in this experiment was also employed the mordant dyeing method such as pre-mordant, post-mordant and simultaneous mordant method. The mordanting agents used in this study were as followings ; aluminium potassium sulfate, copper(II) acetate monohydrate, chromium potassium sulfate$.$$7H_2O$, Tin(II) chloride dihydrate, iron(II)sulfate $7H_2O$. For an evaluation of the dyeing property of the mordanting agents, the pre-mordant method, the repeat dyeing and the fastness of the light, dry cleaning, washing and rubbing measured respectively. From the results of the dye absorption, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract is at 80C dyeing temperature for 60 minutes. The optimum concentration of mordanting agent is Al, Cr, Sn 1%, Fe, Cu 2% solution. In general, the fastness property of the dyed wool and nylon fabrics had a comparatively high grade.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.686-698
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• 2005

In this study, simultaneous mordanting method of dyeing in the Caesalpinia sappan dye liquor mixed with the rice straw ash solution was employed. The dyeing effects were compared and reviewed according to the changes of dyeing mechanisms of pre-mordanting and simultaneous mordanting using ash solutions. By the direct addition of the ash solution, the pH of the liquor was abruptly changed. In the case of maintaining the pH value of the ash solution at about 7 or 8, compared to the pre-mordanting, $a^{*}$ values increased and $b^{*}$ values decreased. As a result, it is highly desirable in terms of selective emphasis on the reddish hue. The color development, differentiated from that obtainable by the dyeing of chitosan pre-treated fabric, was obtained due to the effect of the water soluble chitosan component on the dyeing mechanism.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.34-39
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• 2009

The traditional Korean hand-made papers (Hanji) were dyed with colorant extracted from flowers of Sophora japonica L.(pagoda tree), and the effect of various dyeing factors (mordant, mordanting method, pH of dyeing solution, etc.) on colors and K/S values of the dyed Hanji was investigated. Changing mordant affected the color of dyed Hanji. Mordanting with alum, copper acetate made the color of dyed Hanji more yellow, but dyed Hanji mordanted with $FeCl_2$ had dark olive color. The K/S value of the dyed Hanji mainly depended on the pH of the dyeing solution and mordanting method. It was found that sim-mordanting with alum was timesaving and effective dyeing method. The dyed Hanji sim-mordanted with alum had the highest K/S value at low pH (about 4).

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.139-146
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• 2015

We manufactured natural dyed Korean traditional paper (Hanji) for cultural properties conservation and storage with goldthread (Coptis chinensis) and silver nitrate ($AgNO_3$). Goldthread and silver nitrate are known to be an excellent antimicrobial activity. The effect of content of goldthread and silver nitrate on properties of dyed Hanji was investigated. Color strength of dyed Hanji decreased with increasing content of silver nitrate. After-mordanting with 3% silver nitrate improved lightfastness of dyed Hanji. Tannic acid treatment increased K/S value of dyed Hanji. As the amount of the increase in goldthread content was reduced silver nitrate content. Sim-mordanting method was used for simplifying manufacture process. Silver nitrate sim-mordanting method increased K/S value of goldthread than after-mordanting method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.103-111
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to investigate the antibacterial efficacy of cotton and silk/rayon fabrics dyed with Saururus chinensis extract against antibiotic-resistant strains. The concentration of the concentrated dye in the Saururus chinensis extracts was 1.1% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:10 at 30-70℃. The mordanting method was a post mordanting method. The concentration of Al2(SO4)3, CuSO4 5H2O and FeSO4 and7H2O mordant was 5% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:40. In order to assess the antimicrobial activity of naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by incubating it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) including Oxacillin (2㎍/ml) and Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml) and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA.) The investigation of the reduction of the rate of antibiotic-resistant strains to dyed cotton fabrics and silk/rayon fabrics revealed that Cu mordanting fabric has the highest antimicrobial effects, with the rate of 99.7%, and Fe mordanting fabric has the lowest, with 77.7%. Non-mordant cotton fabrics also show a high reduction rate of strains (94.6%). In the case of dyed silk/rayon fabrics, it indicates a high reduction in the rate of strains in all fabrics with non-mordant treatment (94.2%), Al mordanting (99.6%), and Cu and Fe mordanting(99.9%).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.707-728
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• 2024

This study aimed to assess the colorizing properties of bacterial cellulose (BC) using plant-based dyes, namely spinach, beet, and banana peel, and determine the dyeing conditions of each dye based on color strength (K/S) values. Tannic acid and walnut shell powder were utilized as bio-mordants, and their effects on the dyeability of BC were compared to metallic mordants. Additionally, the type of mordant and the mordanting method were assessed according to their rubbing fastness and dry-cleaning fastness. The K/S values of the colorized and mordanted BCs were also compared to examine their mordanting conditions. Finally, the mordanting conditions for spinach, beet, and banana peel dyeing were selected as post-mordanting with tannic acid, meta-mordanting with tannic acid, and post-mordanting with walnut shell powder, respectively. Based on the results, the selected mordanting conditions improved both rubbing fastness and dry-cleaning fastness of BCs to grade 5, and the light fastness achieved grade 4-5. The tensile strength and flexibility of the dyed BCs were also enhanced and comparable to that of untreated cowhide leather.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.299-307
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• 2016

In order to clarify the availability of heat treatment for catechu dyeing, effect of color developing by heating process on cotton fabrics dyed with catechu extract was investigated. Dyed fabrics were heated various time(min) at $150^{\circ}C$. The cases of non-mordanting and mordanting were compared, and examined the effect of sodium acetate as an agent to promote the color developing to fabrics. Experiments with after-mordanting method showed that various colors can be obtained using catechu. K/S values of dyed fabrics with Al, Cu, Fe mordant were higher than the case of no mordant. The fabric by Cu mordanting showed 3 times to the case of no mordant. Fabrics dyed with catechu by mordanting lowered $L^*$ value while there was little change in $a^*$, $b^*$ value as the heating process progressed. Therefore, K/S values were increased due to heating process. The effects of adding sodium acetate in dyeing bath on dyed fabrics were shown higher K/S values, and the $L^*$ values were lower than those without sodium acetate according to heating time increase. The result show sodium acetate had a promoting effect on the color developing to the fabrics by heating process, it was very effective.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.